6.0 injector problems

D66stroke

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My truck has had a little miss since I bought it last winter. This past summer I started to have stiction issues when cold (blue/white smoke) so I started with oil additives, didn't fix my problem. Then in the past couple weeks the truck would have a decent amount of blueish smoke whenever at idle whether truck was completely warm or cold, and my turbo has been surging since it started happening. My SCT told me cyl. 5 had a contribution/inbalnce code so I replaced that injector, took away most of the surge issues, but still hazes blue at idle and is getting worse. I unplugged #5 injector and no more smoke. Is it injecting fuel but not igniting? Hope I didn't wipe out a piston but I don't know what else it could be
 

loboost

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Could be in the ficm circuitry for the #5..could be stuck intake valve
 

D66stroke

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It used to sound like air was coming back through the intake, then I changed the injector and that sound went away for the most part. The turbo doesn't surge until it hits OD or under load in a low rpm. When I go to take off it has a popping sound in the engine, like an injector(s) misfiring. It smells like raw diesel. But like I said when I unplug it there's no smoke and it even runs better other than less power obviously. It would be nice if it was the FICM but my luck usually doesn't work that way lol
 

Gary

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You may have to do a compression test, your looking for 350-400 psi.
You are on the correct cylinder right, #5 is the third cylinder back on the passenger side.
 

D66stroke

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You may have to do a compression test, your looking for 350-400 psi.
You are on the correct cylinder right, #5 is the third cylinder back on the passenger side.

Yup the third cyl. back on passenger side where I replaced the injector. I'm hoping it's just something with the FICM, I'm actually about to test it now. What are the chances that the #5 FICM circuitry would go bad?
 

D66stroke

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And if by any chance it is a bad FICM, what's the best route to go as far as getting a new one? I see Swamps has a couple options, Bulletproof diesel, and other sites that fix FICM's
 

loboost

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And if by any chance it is a bad FICM, what's the best route to go as far as getting a new one? I see Swamps has a couple options, Bulletproof diesel, and other sites that fix FICM's

If you've got the $ I'd go w either swamps it BPD like you said. That or find a known good used one
 

D66stroke

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Tested the FICM and it was good, read between 47-49 volts. Read on another forum someone having the same problem I'm having and the same code I'm getting (P0275 cyl. 5 contribution/balance), and the guy mentioned testing the 2 pins on the injector plug if the FICM came up good to see if it's the harness running from the FICM to that injector, and that it should have 48v if good like the FICM? I'm assuming he meant the valve cover plug for that cylinder so I tested the 4 pins (there are 4, not 2 like he said) and got nothing close to 48v, just a bunch of numbers jumping around. Anyone heard of testing the plug to see if the wiring from the FICM to that injector is good?
 

D66stroke

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Bringing this back up.. Finally got around to taking valve cover off, valve train components look as they should. No broken retainer clips or rocker arms, push rods look straight from what I could see. Pulled the injector to make sure o-rings looked good, they did as well as the brass washer around the nozzle. Since I have the injector out I'm gonna get it tested to see if it's somehow a faulty piece. It's a reman from FORD so I don't see the chance of it being bad, anyone ever get bad remans through Ford? Also my truck needs HG's so eventually I gotta pull the head anyway. Not to sound dumb, but what's the easiest way around pulling the cab - removing heater box, or engine? I'm done driving my 7 cylinder 6.0 that sounds like a dog growling whenever I get into it, so any help is much appreciated!
 

D66stroke

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If the circuitry is bad on that cylinder, does that mean I have to buy a new half shell to fix my problem? If so, what's the part number?
 

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