6.0 refresh ideas and issues

[powerlifter405]

Truck:
2005 6.0 289k miles runs GREAT when warmed up. Starts up fine cold no smoke, slight stutter when cold only on acceleration.

Original HG, turbo and exhaust. Recent EGR deleted, rest all factory, NO tuner, ever.

2 injectors were replaced at approx 187k.

Intake was "carboned up" per Ford, EGR cooler and intake were placed approx 187k. Oil cooler was replaced at the time as well. No notes about oil cooler issues/back pressure/ or HG. I have every ford receipt/work order from the original owner. I am owner #2 acquired as a theft recovery.

Problem:
Bed plate or rear main is leaking. Slight stiction when cold. The turbo seal is leaking( i rerouted the CCV and tested things w/ the CAC off and oil is weeping out of the mouth of the turbo.)

I am contemplating doing a basic gasket refresh. I want reliablility nothing more really, unless I get some bonus mpg then even better.
I saw that strictly diesel has RCD HG supposedly the same as ford but I find little on their success. I am pricing out and making a list of things to perform. Here is my list if I can get some ideas if this is the right direction.

From what I'm finding on PSA and a few other sites:

Heads, no more than 0.007
Valve job, move the valves up .010, valve recession to roughly 0.018-0.020 on the intake 0.025 on exhaust. roughly 0.010 off the stem top of the valve
To compensate for the valve job.

3C3Z-6020-CA -------- Engine Timing Cover Gasket
3C3Z-6700-BA ------- front Crankshaft Seal
3C3Z-6701-B --------- Rear crankseal
3C3Z-6D083-AA ---- Rear crankseal flang cover gasket
8C3Z-6565-B ---- push rod ---New length???
8C3Z-12K073A- -------Camshaft Position Sensor
3C3Z-6C315-AA ----- Crankshaft Position sensor
ZC-31-A -------------Block metal prep for HG's
3C3Z-6710-CA ------- UPPER Engine Oil Pan Gasket
3C3Z-6710-BA------- lower Oil pan gasket
Bed plate gasket
Lifters ( OEM or sealed power?) SP is 9.89 @ advanced auto.
Head gaskets (RCD or OEM)
ALL Oil o-rings
STC fittings
Dummy plugs
Stand plugs
Rocker box gaskets
New ford Injectors
MTW stage 1 or maybe 2.
Vivian tunes

I have a shop that has experience in 6.0 heads and will pressure test, magnaflux and mill for $200 total. Fully rebuilt, both head are approx $1,100 referencing the last 6.0 rebuild set. He can put in hardened seats as well.

I'll pull the motor as I dont have a lift. I want a smooth DD

Thoughts and/or ideas? Should I just stud and leave alone? I'd like to do this once and be done w/ it. I've already done the math, at the pricing of the above including injectors and turbo, it's still cheaper than a 5.9 swap w/o any custom install headaches so that is already out of the question.

Thanks:ford:

 

[mcdaniel1991]

I think this is just about everything i bought with my rebuild.

also dont forget about the special tools needed for the front and rear main seals. I think I got the rear one for around $220. From here
http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Stallion-Suspension_c53.htm

Also, im not telling you not to support one of the vendors here but, I found the best prices at Tasca ford parts. I bought the extreme studs from Bigrpower on here.

 

[05wh250]

I'm running the RCD head gaskets on mine with no issues. Their supposed yo be built to the same spec as factory. As for the rest, just a basic rebuild is what your looking for it sounds like.

Also I would look at kc turbo or barder for the turbo.

 

[mind if I smoke]

I would highly recomend Charlie out at CK. I've been running his for a little while and love it. In fact it should be here today after its rebuild.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

If the only oil leak you have is the bed plate and headgaskets are good:

I would do studs one at a time, heads on. Swap your injectors and stuff while you're in there.
For the bedplate there's two options. Pull the motor, flip it over and do the bed plate,

OR

Leave the motor in, drop the trans, ratchet strap the ends of the crank, and pull the bed plate. Old Ford tech that I used to work with would do them this way under warranty. Had it down to a 4-6 hour job.

 

[powerlifter405]

I think this is just about everything i bought with my rebuild.

also dont forget about the special tools needed for the front and rear main seals. I think I got the rear one for around $220. From here
http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Stallion-Suspension_c53.htm

Also, im not telling you not to support one of the vendors here but, I found the best prices at Tasca ford parts. I bought the extreme studs from Bigrpower on here.

Thanks for the list, I see I left the exhaust manifold gaskets off.
I've dealt w/ tousley ford plenty in the past and they price parts close to list but it's good to have options.

I'm running the RCD head gaskets on mine with no issues. Their supposed yo be built to the same spec as factory. As for the rest, just a basic rebuild is what your looking for it sounds like.

Also I would look at kc turbo or barder for the turbo.

That's what I read on the strictly diesel site about the RCD one's. I have ARPs on the shelf so I'll use those. I figure they normally work well so that is why I chose them over the more expensive aged ones.

Adrian has answered my emails so far and vivian indicates that she's been pleased w/ his and don't require any real special tuning. Plus I like the fact the A/R is small so it should really help for a DD. I'll have to see what the other offerings are.

I would highly recomend Charlie out at CK. I've been running his for a little while and love it. In fact it should be here today after its rebuild.

Who/what is CK? I have never heard of them. I know Charles but I'm guessing its not the same guy? The stage 2 mtw has the 360 thrust bearing so it was another reason I looked at that variant.

If the only oil leak you have is the bed plate and headgaskets are good:

I would do studs one at a time, heads on. Swap your injectors and stuff while you're in there.
For the bedplate there's two options. Pull the motor, flip it over and do the bed plate,

OR

Leave the motor in, drop the trans, ratchet strap the ends of the crank, and pull the bed plate. Old Ford tech that I used to work with would do them this way under warranty. Had it down to a 4-6 hour job.

The headgaskets are good to go :rockon: I believe it's either the bed plate or rear main. I'm thinking rear main as it is happening right at the base of the bell-housing. I cleaned everything else very well and the lowest point in the bell-housing is the collection point but the rest is clean.

Since I'm considering the BP and the rear main, I'll pull the motor. I did consider doing some stuff in motor in but i'm 41years old and my back isn't too happy about that prospect. I can dead lift and workout etc.. but being hunched over all weekend kills me. Just wrestling w/ the egr delete trying to get the fking :fustrate:up-pipes lined up killed my back after 2 days. I went back to the stock pipe(plugged it) and it lined up perfect on the 1st try w/ no fuss

Thanks for the ideas

 

[mind if I smoke]

Not to throw anyone under the bus, but I would recommended doing a google search and some reading about Adrain(owner of MTW). KC turbos, they are a vendor on here. Just look under the vendor list. The owners name is Charlie and he is a great guy with tremendous service. I don't personally know the guys out at Barder turbos but I've heard nothing but good things. I would recommend just stepping up and going with the 68mm. As far as head gaskets go. The problem with 6.0 heads is that they are warped. So I'm a firm believer that doing heads one stud at a time without taking them off and decking them is just going to buy you some time. Especially if you're going to run a bigger charger. But of course this all is just my $.02.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Not to throw anyone under the bus, but I would recommended doing a google search and some reading about Adrain(owner of MTW). KC turbos, they are a vendor on here. Just look under the vendor list. The owners name is Charlie and he is a great guy with tremendous service. I don't personally know the guys out at Barder turbos but I've heard nothing but good things. I would recommend just stepping up and going with the 68mm. As far as head gaskets go. The problem with 6.0 heads is that they are warped. So I'm a firm believer that doing heads one stud at a time without taking them off and decking them is just going to buy you some time. Especially if you're going to run a bigger charger. But of course this all is just my $.02.

So how is a warped head going to have a good seal in the first place? Unless the truck got extremely hot, they heads stay flat. More than likely they will crack before they warp.

 

[powerlifter405]

Not to throw anyone under the bus, but I would recommended doing a google search and some reading about Adrain(owner of MTW). KC turbos, they are a vendor on here. Just look under the vendor list. The owners name is Charlie and he is a great guy with tremendous service. I don't personally know the guys out at Barder turbos but I've heard nothing but good things. I would recommend just stepping up and going with the 68mm. As far as head gaskets go. The problem with 6.0 heads is that they are warped. So I'm a firm believer that doing heads one stud at a time without taking them off and decking them is just going to buy you some time. Especially if you're going to run a bigger charger. But of course this all is just my $.02.

I understand and it seems like it was either a love/hate issue w/ mtw. My thinking is the .58 a/r would suit our around town and empty hwy trips thus making a better DD. I will have to call KC and Barder. I hear good things about both shops so I'll inquire to get some more ideas for my specific application.

So how is a warped head going to have a good seal in the first place? Unless the truck got extremely hot, they heads stay flat. More than likely they will crack before they warp.

Makes sense and I hear even from ford they come warped or in bad shape. My 6.4 heads were like that. The 1st pair both were bad and the second set one was fixable so the shop repaired it BUT they indicated the 6.4 reman is the worst they've seen.

I want to do it once and be done w/ it so I'll have them decked/milled and I'll talk to the shop about the additional services.

 

[Petro]

So how is a warped head going to have a good seal in the first place? Unless the truck got extremely hot, they heads stay flat. More than likely they will crack before they warp.

In the probably 20 sets of 6.0l and 7.3 heads I've taken to the machine shop in the last 2 years, weather the gaskets were blown or not, EVERY SINGLE HEAD was warped. To say heads only warp when they get hot is Completely Wrong.

 

[powerlifter405]

How did you resolve the issue?

 

[swinky]

I'd put a new motor in it. The gaskets might be blown now. I've had blown gaskets twice and it would show no symptoms on stock tuning. Slap a tune on and it's puking.

If you like the truck I'd drive it as is and find a short block with under 100k on it. Engines have bearings ya know lol

 

[swinky]

If the only oil leak you have is the bed plate and headgaskets are good:

I would do studs one at a time, heads on. Swap your injectors and stuff while you're in there.
For the bedplate there's two options. Pull the motor, flip it over and do the bed plate,

OR

Leave the motor in, drop the trans, ratchet strap the ends of the crank, and pull the bed plate. Old Ford tech that I used to work with would do them this way under warranty. Had it down to a 4-6 hour job.

He said he wants to do lifters. Motor is coming out.

 

[Petro]

How did you resolve the issue?

Just a normal plane and magna flux job took care of it. None of them were unrepairable, the point I was making is that all heads warp, not just heads from engines that were overheated.

 

[mind if I smoke]

^^^^ WHS. The only way in my opinion to do head gaskets that will hold for any time is to pull the heads and have them decked.

 

[powerlifter405]

I have gathered pricing for the above parts & it make be the same or even cheaper to get an OEM rebuild kit AND from what I see the kit includes all the sensors. Ill call the machine shop & I might get the kit and go .20 over. Ill price things out for sure & post.

If it's the same $$ in parts Plus you get sensors it's almost with it to do and get new bearings, lpop & rings.
Barder has suggested the 63.5 stage1 & explained why so I may go that route.

We shall see.