okay i have a 2003 F-350 with the 6.0L recently it started blowing black smoke above 2000 RPM which previously it didnt smoke at all. that went on a day or two then yesterday it started running rough (like a miss on several cylinders) at idle and up to 2000 rpm, seems to smooth out after that, and it doesn't do it cold, but as soon as it gets warm it starts acting up, i took the EGR out and cleaned it but that didtnt seem to do anything. i suspect the FICM? but thats really just a guess. also the length of the crank before it starts is all over the place, sometimes one revolution sometimes 10! I need this truck for the side work i do and cant afford to pay someone to fix it so any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated!!!!
6.0L runs rough at idle and blows black smoke
- Thread starter mstetar
- Start date
ghohouston
Active member
Ficm is going south. I would verify all 3 connectors are fully seated in ficm. If they are, then its time to replace ficm. And in result of this, you probably have a few bad injectors now. But see what happens with the ficm first
weazel
New member
I would also lean towards the FICM, mine started surging so hard it was pushing through the brakes at intersections.
Sent from in a ditch up side down and on fire with the wheels still spinning
Sent from in a ditch up side down and on fire with the wheels still spinning
ghohouston
Active member
Ficm going bad = injectors go bad if let go long enough. Its the low voltage from ficm to injectors iirc that actually causes them to go bad.
ghohouston
Active member
And like I said, theres no guarantee your injectors are bad now, but possible
Sounds more like you have a high pressure oil issue rather than an FICM problem to me.. Take an ohm/volt meter and read the voltage off/key on and cranking just to rule it out.. Also check your fuel pressure, you could have two problems, hard to tell until you test them and eliminate each one..
When the motor is warm and acts up, I suspect a high pressure oil issue.. Also cleaning the EGR valve is not often successful, if it is sticking, it's done and needs to be replaced with a new gasket set..
When the motor is warm and acts up, I suspect a high pressure oil issue.. Also cleaning the EGR valve is not often successful, if it is sticking, it's done and needs to be replaced with a new gasket set..
i did test it, its reading 42v on first start than climbs to 46v after about 20 seconds and stays there, while cranking is less i dont remember what but i think around 30 something, ill check again tomorrow, i learned something today aswell that i would have never even thought about, the batteries in my truck are very week i read that that kills the FICM, so im gonna go ahead and guess thats the root of all evil here......
weazel
New member
FICMrepair.com guy will hook you up, he did mine, cheap and easy. It's better than getting a new one I spent $200, and that was a rebuild and the atlas 80 tune
Sent from in a ditch up side down and on fire with the wheels still spinning
Sent from in a ditch up side down and on fire with the wheels still spinning
Ya, the FICM needs to go and the batteries as well.. I hope that takes care of it but something tells me there could be something else wrong as well, guess you will find out..
jdeeg4276
Member
Are you hearing the typicle buzz sound from the ficm?
Just replaced a ficm. 46v and no buzz sound. Replaced runs great.
Symptoms were no start to vary hard start
Take care
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
Just replaced a ficm. 46v and no buzz sound. Replaced runs great.
Symptoms were no start to vary hard start
Take care
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
ghohouston
Active member
Powerstrokes dont have "injection pumps" they have high pressure oil pumps, and they dont make any noise
oh lol well that shows how much i know, diesel world is new to me, just gotta learn lt like anything else i guess! Nice ppl like the ones on here help immensely! i did get new batteries today and re-tested the FICM, the readings are all over the place now, 40v at idle so im assuming that has to be the culprit? put yourself in my shoes, your broke and need the truck back, is the FICM what you replace?
another thing i wanted to ask is on the intake side of the turbo at every joint where the aluminum pipe goes from the turbo to the cooler, to the intake, all the rubber joints are oily? something about that seemed fishy to me? is that a sign of something else wrong???
poorboy1964
New member
yes the FICM still needs to be replaced as said above look at http://ficmrepair.com/ this is a very good option.
