6.7 Compressor Wheel upgrade

Strokersace

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So I’m finally getting around to doing something about the chewed up stock compressor wheel on my 2015. Decided against a bigger aftermarket drop in turbo - it’s just money that I do not have right now, so looking at compressor wheel options. My stock turbo is still tight, just needs a new wheel.

Looking at KC Gen 2 billet wheel at $250 or a stock wheel for $75. Claims are good for the KC wheel, but I’m not finding ANY real world reviews online and the website doesn’t offer much. Also, does tuning need adjusted for it? If it’s truly a worthwhile upgrade I’ll do it while the turbo is out, but if it’s just marketing or needs tuning revisions to take full advantage of it, then I don’t know if I want to mess with it or spend the extra $$$.

For reference, here’s the current stock compressor wheel:
2ca2b905b61223cd4d88643a1cae9457.jpg
 
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hskfab

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The reward is not worth the effort and time. IMHO. Kind of like the bd Trans solenoids. Save for a replacement.
 

Strokersace

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The reward is not worth the effort and time. IMHO. Kind of like the bd Trans solenoids. Save for a replacement.

Typically I would agree with you 100%. However I won’t own the truck long enough to save the money for a full replacement. Not because I wouldn’t like to keep it, but rather I may need sell it in the future. So if I’m pulling the turbo to put a wheel on it, stock or not, which one is the better choice? Especially given the labor will be the exact same.
 

hskfab

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Typically I would agree with you 100%. However I won’t own the truck long enough to save the money for a full replacement. Not because I wouldn’t like to keep it, but rather I may need sell it in the future. So if I’m pulling the turbo to put a wheel on it, stock or not, which one is the better choice? Especially given the labor will be the exact same.
Do the KC. Then, you can give it a full review. Do before and after data logs to see what changes, if any are to be had.
 

sootie

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if you arent changing the turbine side, tuning revisions wont be necessary
 

brokestroke

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I have been running a KC Gen2 wheel with a Stainless Diesel 10 blade turbine wheel for close to 2 years. The wheel is great, very quiet, spools fast and has good egt control with the 10 blade.
 

Strokersace

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So I’m did get a wheel bought a few weeks ago, but haven’t had time to get it installed yet.

Any thoughts to swapping it with turbo still installed? Can easily pull compressor housing and get to the wheel. It’s holding the turbine side still that would be tough.

Thoughts?
 

6.0 Tech

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So I’m did get a wheel bought a few weeks ago, but haven’t had time to get it installed yet.

Any thoughts to swapping it with turbo still installed? Can easily pull compressor housing and get to the wheel. It’s holding the turbine side still that would be tough.

Thoughts?

We definitely do not recommend using a 3/8 impact and hitting it a few times.

I’m not a turbo builder, and can’t remember if they’re rh or lh threads.

The fact the turbine spins when you’re doing it will keep it from being over torqued. Do run into the issue of possibly under torquing, but I’ve done it on a few on the dyno and haven’t had problems. Mainly 6.4 and 6.7, as those turbos don’t fall off like the 6.0 and 7.3, and they are a bit harder to get the compressor cover off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

hskfab

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Good way to tell the thread direction is the pitch of the blades. If they pitch inwards to the left (if looking at top blade) it loosens clockwise. They basically loosen the same direction they spin. Same goes for fan clutches. The 6.7 compressor wheel loosens clockwise.
 

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