7.3 aftermarket cam?

Cloverleaffarm

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this winter I am rebuilding a 7.3 so i can make the platform strong enough to make a 550 DD, work truck, and even hook to the sled as often as possible. I will be doing all the regular internal, fuel mods. I will be running a gated S366 charger and either 250/80's or 238/200's (thats not important now). but my question is whether or not to buy a stage 1 cam from Matt during the rebuild process?
 

Cloverleaffarm

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i'll probably throw it in while the motor is tworn apart. i want to builld a stoute base, probably going to do some main studs as well. just want as much internal strenght
 

Short Bus

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I would while your there, heck they arent that expensive. Biggest thing i would try and do at that point is billet rods, at that HP they will be nice insurance IMO.
 

Cloverleaffarm

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well for 3K for new rods, hopefully i can find a set of used rods that aren't damaged. I know insurance is cheap compared to blowing a window, but if i decide too just run a smaller injector say a 238 hybrid instead of a 250, would the new forged rods comming from the rebuild kit be strong enough?
 

Blowby

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Looking at my dyno sheets Matt's stage II cam moved my peak HP up 400 rpms if that's worth something to you.
 

Cloverleaffarm

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this winter, the block is going to a machine shop to get fully inspected and checked out. should I have them do anything specifically? a buddy that has his 7.3 pullin truck motor on engine stand now is going to sell me his ported heads so that won't need to be done
 

Cloverleaffarm

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Cam will either be DI's or Matt's. going to do more research on which would be best in my application. If i use Matt's cam, would it be recommended to have him tune it?
boring the heads to .010 or .020 worth the price for a street/work truck?
 

Cloverleaffarm

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i've heard good things about his tuning, guess its about time to give him a call. I had a guy tell me that i shouldn't have the machine shop bore any more than .010 over because it will give it issues trying to start the truck come winter time. i'm sure he's right to a point, but wouldn't it be be benneficial to have it done atleast that?
 

Cloverleaffarm

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yes, the riffraff rebuild kit has an optino for.010/.020/.030 over. but i'm thinking its going to be too expensive if the cylinders are smooth and don't need any work done
 

TARM

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Think he is actually trying to talk about Compression ratio. As that gets lower in the cold it can have an adverse effect on starting.
 

Cloverleaffarm

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Thanks Tarm, i figured that's what he was thinking. but i wasn't positive. I know that the truck will be sitting outside most of the time because it sits to tall for garage, so it will definately be pluged in before it moves. just figured that since its up at the machine shop, i'd consider some internal boring or somethin
 

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