7.3 no revs >2450 rpm & blue smoke?

[MeTo]

Hello everyone, the truck is used to pull our boondock camper (~2300 pound aluminum cargo trailer) and a few hundred pounds in the back of the truck. So, it sees lots of highway miles at ~60, National Forest and BLM roads. I'm getting ~17 mpg, that's calculated by hand.

The engine runs great under normal driving. When the throttle is jabbed, it will stumble or reved above 2500 rpm it will flatten out like it's starving for fuel and smoke blue quite a bit. When I let off of the throttle, it will catch itself and stop smoking. It does not smoke otherwise, does not use oil. It does not miss above 2500, it acts like it's at the rev limiter.

Things I have checked: no fuel filter light, fuel tanks 3/4 full, tried switching tanks, lift pump is about 1 year old, cleaned & re-oringed fuel bowl & regulator, hpop oil is 1" from top, no oil in fuel bowl oil (black), no oil in down pipe, no visible fuel leaks, no fuel in engine oil, very little blow by & ebpv is open. I hooked my Marshal oil filled 0 to 100 psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge to the schrader port, needle swings from 48 to 72 psi continuously at all rpms. My OBDII reader showed no codes.

I'm on Performance Diesel's waiting list. That could be a few weeks since Jeff was just on vacation.

If it was the fuel tank shower head, selector valve or pump, the fuel light would go on.

I'm thinking it might be the injectors? Could they leak high pressure oil into the cylinder? This is my first diesel, so I don't have much experience with them. This is the best I can explain it.

Stats:
97 F350 XL std cab, srw, 4wd
Donaldson, 3" ss down pipe & 4" 2 muffler ss exhaust
Pyro & boost meters, EBPV ******
FPR shimmed & TSP 6p chip
Box ****** -> custom enclosure & All synthetic lube
Custom hitch & added cruise 203F t-stat
Custom front deer deflector w/high lift jack
My truck has 147,000 on it. It's from New Mexico and has zero rust.

 

[Magnum PD]

Need to see how your HPOP is doing. Would be a good idea to get a 17* degree pump

 

[WILD_PHIL]

I'm having similar issues with my e99. Subscribed.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[78f100]

Check screens in the tank first, I can just about gaurentee they are clogged. It may not be the only issue but could very well be. I fought one a few months ago, ran fine everytime I drove it but customer could get 100 miles away and it would loose power. Every time I tested it Fp was good, dropped the tank just to check and rule out, new screens in haven't had a issue since.

 

[WILD_PHIL]

I've been putting that off. My fuel gauge gets squirrelly once it's below 1/4 tank anyhow.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[MeTo]

Hmm, ok I will dig into the front tank. But why the blue smoke if it would be the tank filter? Will fuel starvation case blue smoke. The two issues ALWAYS happen at the same time.

 

[mandkole]

can you switch tanks and it goes away? Selector valve perhaps?

You do have a volume loss/ restriction issue. Saw similar issues when our old 97 had pump dying.

 

[MeTo]

can you switch tanks and it goes away? Selector valve perhaps?

You do have a volume loss/ restriction issue. Saw similar issues when our old 97 had pump dying.

Same problem with both tanks. If it turns out to be a fuel restriction issue? I would be happy; less expensive than injectors.

If it is a restriction issue? Why would the fuel filter light not be on? I tested the light, it does work.

I'm going to rig up a temporary fuel container to the lift pump inlet and check how it runs on that?

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Arisley]

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Needs injectors... Blueish white smoke is fuel.

 

[elrodalexander73]

I would removed injectors and check condition of o-rings and see if the copper washers haven't split and causing popping off seat issues.. When you try to rev past 2500 rpm it creates enough boost pressure to aerate the fuel in the heads and cause a massive loss of power and act's like it's running out of fuel... Been through this on just about all the diesel engines I've worked on with copper washer's sealing the bottom of the injector. You can install a fuel pressure gauge, a good liquid filled one and watch the pressure, if it spikes say to 90 psi or so you know you have pressure entering the system, and about the only place it can enter the system like that is through the o'rings, you're fuel filter wasn't black in color when you removed it, I know with this new fuel it can discolor fuel filters now, but if it's really black smell it, if it kinda reeks of carbon you know where to start.

 

[Bustedknuckles]

Just fixed one today with the same symptoms. The chip had come loose on the pcm.

 

[E450 newbie]

Have same issue well almost

Have a 2001 7.3 and it cranks and runs decent at idle and revs to about 22-2300 rpms then acts like a flooded gasser and smoke bellows out the exhaust. Then when pedal gets almost to the floor it will go to WOT and smoke mostly clears up. Has me stumped. Help!

 

[WILD_PHIL]

Mine would start bucking like a lil b!tch around the same RPM. I could dump the clutch and run every gear with no issues. I replaced my CPS and the problem is gone. Make sure you buy a Ford CPS. I bought 3 from the parts store that weren't worth a damn. I don't know if that's your problem, but that's what fixed mine.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[79jasper]

Have a 2001 7.3 and it cranks and runs decent at idle and revs to about 22-2300 rpms then acts like a flooded gasser and smoke bellows out the exhaust. Then when pedal gets almost to the floor it will go to WOT and smoke mostly clears up. Has me stumped. Help!

I've had my obs do that a few times.
Can't say I've actually done anything to fix it. It would only happen when it's colder out.
My guess would be IPR or icp related.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[DEEZUZ]

Injectors

 

[E450 newbie]

Was thinking of pulling injectors and replacing the o rings. Making a car hauler out of it and need to get it on the road. Haven't even put tags or insurance on it yet. Wanted to get the running issues fixed first. Scared of what the cost is going to be. Finding it very expensive to work on!

 

[mandkole]

Was thinking of pulling injectors and replacing the o rings. Making a car hauler out of it and need to get it on the road. Haven't even put tags or insurance on it yet. Wanted to get the running issues fixed first. Scared of what the cost is going to be. Finding it very expensive to work on!

Diesels do cost a bit up front if you buy one poorly maintained. Where do you live?

If you know nothing about the truck history and have similar issues, Id find a shop to bench test the injectors before putting them back in. R&Ring them takes a fair amount of time (plus $100 for orings), so get them well looked over as part of your diagnostics. If the engine compression is good, you need good electrical supply, good hp oil supply/pressure, even running injectors and good fuel pressure. After that, its like every other truck.

 

[MeTo]

Update, Performance Diesel said it will be mid December before they can get my truck in.

In the meantime, I installed a new CPS (RiffRaff) and did the IDM (100/75K) mod. Both mods made a noticeable difference in how smooth the idle is now and no more slight miss BS. The best part is, the stumbling/flat spot is almost gone. It also has a little better throttle response.

My IDM had moisture and about a tablespoon of water inside. Doing the mod allowed me to take care of the moisture and make sure it will NOT be leaking again.

I had my wife rev it while I was in front listening. I think I can see a small whiff of blue smoke when it does a small stumble at ~2500 between the engine and firewall. I think the up pipes are leaking. It now will rev over 3000 rpm.

So, up pipes?, engine scan at Performance Diesel in December and custom 54 gl fuel tank and eFuel in the spring.

Thanks for everyone's time.

 

[E450 newbie]

Diesels do cost a bit up front if you buy one poorly maintained. Where do you live?

If you know nothing about the truck history and have similar issues, Id find a shop to bench test the injectors before putting them back in. R&Ring them takes a fair amount of time (plus $100 for orings), so get them well looked over as part of your diagnostics. If the engine compression is good, you need good electrical supply, good hp oil supply/pressure, even running injectors and good fuel pressure. After that, its like every other truck.

I live in SC just south of Charlotte NC. I do know the truck was fleet maintained and was supposed to get the service records with it but the guy said he was moving and that they were packed away somewhere. Said he would get them to me if and when he found them. Not holding my breath on that one. I do have the coupon booklet from the company that did the maintenance on the truck. It was about 1500 miles from next service. Apparently the truck had been sitting for a year or two as the brakes were frozen on it. The truck has 178k miles on it. Thinking of calling the company to see if they will give me some info on it. Thanks for replying!