Ball joint on the end of the track bar (on the axle.)

TrickTruck

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Truck has developed a bit of a wander. So I got underneath it and had wifey wag the steering wheel and found the problem. It's the ball joint on the end of the track bar at the axle. Clearly sloppy.

Called 2 dealers, one said $375 the other $595.

Wondering two things
1. Is there a greasable one on the market that's any good? Or should I go back to OEM? This one only lasted 60kmi.
2. Is this a diy job or a dealer w/ a special tool job? I hate to part with $400 over a $100 part and one nut, plus I'm working a j.o.b. these days and it's a PITA to get them my truck. It I'm sure is pressed in there with the fist of god tho, not sure what kind of press tool I'd need.

As always, thanks in advance.
 

6.0 Tech

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Truck has developed a bit of a wander. So I got underneath it and had wifey wag the steering wheel and found the problem. It's the ball joint on the end of the track bar at the axle. Clearly sloppy.

Called 2 dealers, one said $375 the other $595.

Wondering two things
1. Is there a greasable one on the market that's any good? Or should I go back to OEM? This one only lasted 60kmi.
2. Is this a diy job or a dealer w/ a special tool job? I hate to part with $400 over a $100 part and one nut, plus I'm working a j.o.b. these days and it's a PITA to get them my truck. It I'm sure is pressed in there with the fist of god tho, not sure what kind of press tool I'd need.

As always, thanks in advance.

If you have a ball joint press it is not hard at all. If you don’t, or don’t have access to a decent one, it gets much harder. May be able to rent one, and make it work. Good ball joint presses ain’t cheap, so buying one to do this job once every 4-5 years don’t make sense.

I’ve always put oe back in, some fuck up the axle housing, I think it was moog, they’re slightly larger or have teeth on them or something, so if you try to put an oe in after the moog shits the bed, you have to put another moog in…


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joebuck

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Hey, thanks for the replies.

Have you got a link to 'a good balljoint press'?

How about a link to this xfr joint?

Tia
Most auto part stores will rent the ball joint press, what you might run into is needing different size cups, the kits only come with a couple standard ones and you usually need bigger and deeper style cups, I purchased the master ball joint cup kit from harbor freight for like $70 and just rent the tool as needed. I also have a press in my shop I use the different cups for also so it was well worth the $ IMO.
 

6.0 Tech

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Hey, thanks for the replies.

Have you got a link to 'a good balljoint press'?

How about a link to this xfr joint?

Tia

I have a snap on ball joint press. It comes with damn near every cup you’ll ever need, and seems to be the best as far as setup and o stall fitment in areas. Guys at shops I’ve worked at have had all sorts of different ball joint presses, otc, Mac, Matco, Cornwall, etc and it always seemed the guys with the snap on ones were loaning it out to guys who had others. The snap on kit is $800-900 though…


Looks a little cheaper now and when I was searching, looks like you can pick them up for 600ish used


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lincolnlocker

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Thats the dumbest damn thing on these trucks. My 12 was on its 3rd oem trac bar ball joint when i totaled it at 132k miles. Factory one lasted till 86k, the next oem lasted to 112k then another oem for the 3rd..

My 15 is on its 5th since i owned it. Factory one was replaced at 110k then that one at 160k with another oem one. That one lasted to 190k, said fuck it and went with a greasable napa high dollar one. Replaced that one at 200k under warranty then replaced that one with a moog at 205k. Now close to 230k so we will see how long the moog will last.

Also on its 3rd set of tierod ends and drag link and ends. Napa brand sucks ass bad. Dont ever get them. No, they are not moog. Or if they are, they weren't greasable.

Factory steering components last decent but Once you replace them even with oem parts, they dont last. My 12 was on its 3rd set of tie rod ends and drag link and ends. Factory set was replaced at like 65k with oem then those shit out just out of the 2 yr warranty and said fuck it and put greasable moogs on everything. I think those had 40k on it when i wrecked it.

Tried napa shit on my 15 when the factory ends went out. They didnt last 30k so i put moog on this time because i wasnt impressed with my 12 when i went through oem parts with that especially for the price difference. Literally half the cost.

Knock on wood, im still on the factory ball joints...😬
 

TrickTruck

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Ordered the greaseable XRF from PMF. Talked to my dealer and he says $150 if I supply the part and they'll do it first thing in the morning and I can wait for it.

Was really looking at the Snap-On tool, but at $500-$600 and the dealer now at $150 I just can't justify it.

Contacted Icon and ordered the other end as well. It's not super loose like the ball joint is, but it's not tight as hell as it was when it was new. I figure get both done while it's in then I'll be rocking.

Should be fixed soon, thanks for all the advice.
 

lincolnlocker

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Moog K500421 or K500422 or K500262 for 11-16. Not sure about 17+

Can find them for less than 50 bucks most places.
 
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lincolnlocker

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Maybe i grease mine more than one should but so far, the moog track bar ball joints last as long as the oem replacement i have gotten from ford.

Or its the grease i use.. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

Racer71

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Moog stuff has been or miss the last few years as far as stuff we get in at the shop. I used a AC Delco on my old truck, ot lasted 200k + miles. Haven’t had to replace it on the new truck yet. The ac happened to be in stock at one of my suppliers the day I decided to change it.
 

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