Bellhousing for engine stand

Big Calo · Sep 3, 2011

I want to build an engine stand stand that I can also run an engine on, and still maintain that ability to rotate the engine to work on it.

The thought is to bolt a plate onto the bellhousing that will be attached to the stand and, allow for the starter to be bolted on still. My main concern is if the bellhousing can support the weight of the engine by its self. If it wouldnt work I could make a crate to hold put it on but kinda prefer the stand.

Also I have an OBS parts truck that does run, so what do I need to take off of it so I can set up a seprate cart to hold all the electrical equipment to run an engine? Engine harness, PCM, IDM, ect?

Tom S · Sep 3, 2011

My concern would be in adding the bell housing adds leverage to try and bend the stand.

Another way of thinking to fire the motor on the stand would be to extend the 42pin connector to reach from the truck to the motor. Then you just need to extend/link battery cables.

Big Calo · Sep 3, 2011

The stand won't be a problem. I have never been known to underbuild anything.

My worry is the bell housing breaking.

As far as firing the motor what I would like to have is a completely seperate cart that has all the essentials on it. Batteries, harness, radiator, ect. That way I could wheel it up to the engine plug it up, and fire it off. That way I could pull an engine, and get the truck out of the way. Or as in the case of what Charles has been dealing with, wheel it up to a truck and run it off of a complete stand alone setup.

moose99psd · Sep 3, 2011

no engine stand that has a running engine is held only from the back like a standard engine stand, build a cradle for the engine to sit in as though it was bolted to the truck, this is the only way to do it. an alum bell housing in no way shape or form is going to hold one of these motors up. nor would i want a running motor being ran while only suspended by a rear mount..

PStroked444 · Sep 3, 2011

My good redneck buddy did something similar. When he started the motor the motor fell over cause it was on a cheap stand. Everythig is long enough to lay the electronics near the motor. Just be careful and do it right. Just be safe. .02

Big Calo · Sep 3, 2011

Thanks guys.

Moose- Are you talking about running or not or both? Would the bell housing support just the motor without it running?

I can easily build some brackets that pin onto the stand that can bolt to the mounts for when I get ready to fire it.

And the stand will be plenty strong. Thinking 6" I-beam upright and 4" x 3/16" square tubing everywhere else with gussets.

RubberDuck · Sep 3, 2011

Remember, on our motors, the starter mounts to the mid plate, not the bellhousing. So all you need is something to clear a flex plate or flywheel.

Big Calo · Sep 4, 2011

RubberDuck said:
Remember, on our motors, the starter mounts to the mid plate, not the bellhousing. So all you need is something to clear a flex plate or flywheel.

True,I could probably make something work then for that.

Also what all do I need to get off the parts truck to make it run?

moose99psd · Sep 4, 2011

i mean its almost impossible for the alum bellhousing to hold up a motor at close to 1k running ready.. as well as rotational torque will deffinately make it worse.

Tom S · Sep 4, 2011

I think the only way you could realisticly do this is with a factory wiring diagram and some carefull work retaining the factory sensors, computers and controls. It has been done before at a few shops as I recall. It will just take some work.

Vader's Fury · Sep 4, 2011

Basically you will need every wire harness that plugs into the engine plug. Also include the Pcm, Idm, Ignition, and the dash cluster.

That is a start on what you will need.

Tree Trimmer · Sep 5, 2011

:whs: you would be farther ahead, just to make the 42 pin connector longer. or as long as you think you need it. if you want it 20ft longer, make it 20 ft longer

Big Calo · Sep 5, 2011

Ok, thanks guys I appreciate it. Ill see what I can do and report back. I might do like my cousin and I did on an old parts ranger. The engine ran but we wanted to put it on a little project we had going, so we pulled the complete harness cab and every thing. Then we hooked it all back up to the engine and one cut one wire and start it. If it ran fine we would just cut that one wire completely out. If it wouldnt start we would just splice it back together. Took a long time but we finally got it down to the bare neccessities. We had a pile of scrap too. Lol.

I may do this but thought there may be a faster option.