Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
New showcase items
New showcase comments
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Showcase
New items
New comments
Latest content
Latest reviews
Latest updates
Search showcase
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Non - Specific
Truck Audio
Building a Box
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
[QUOTE="jdc753, post: 499878, member: 52"] It would be a little big for sealed, but would be about right for ported (except you would loose some volume for the porting) A subwoofer box is essentially a shock absorber for the woofer, so a small box will be a tight spring on the woofer, this will affect the sound making it a little tighter, but will hinder low end response, where a big box will be a loose spring that will allow for the subwoofer to easily play as low as it can go, but it will have relatively sloppier cone control for the higher paced fast hits or higher frequencies. I generally like to keep the boxes smaller, usually for packaging inside the vehicle, but don't usually like to clamp it down all the way to the minimum. For sealed with that sub I think I would keep it in the 1-1.5ft^3 range, that would most likely leave you some room on a side to mount your amplifier keeping it all in a nice neat package behind the seat, also you could narrow the box a little to pull the subwoofer back from the seat to allow the subwoofer to breath a little and not physically impact the back of the seat. If you were to go ported then you want the biggest box you can fit back there, so max it out to 2.3ft^3 overall, but then you will subtract a tiny amount for the subwoofer displacement, and then run a single 4" flared aero port out the side of the box. You want to keep the port on the opposite side of the subwoofer, so sub on passenger side and port on drivers, or vice versa. [ATTACH=full]98856[/ATTACH] **Disclaimer** I have never personally built a ported box, so all my knowledge just comes from gleaning from forums. If you were going to build it on your own I would recommend spending a few minutes modeling the sub and box in WinISD (free downloaded program) to see what that size box and tuning will do to the subwoofer. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Random media
Latest posts
Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts
Latest: Powerstroke Cowboy
Today at 8:39 AM
7.3 Aftermarket
Best aftermarket stock-ish headlights?
Latest: Powerstroke Cowboy
Yesterday at 7:34 PM
94-97 Aftermarket
T
2023 f350 6.7L
Latest: t.rider.013
Friday at 4:13 PM
6.7 Tech
B-Code VOP
Latest: Powerstroke Cowboy
Thursday at 9:15 AM
7.3 Aftermarket
9
20% TO 40% OFF ON FORD OEM PARTS
Latest: 99fordman18
Wednesday at 12:02 PM
Sunrise Ford Parts
Members online
Bogdankap
Raider4044
dsberman94
Cazador
Forums
Non - Specific
Truck Audio
Building a Box
Top