Help me with my build

[Jake P]

This is pretty much just gonna be a thread of me asking a bunch of questions, put all into one thread for easy access when i go to make the purchases. I'll just ask one question at a time, then when i'm satisfied with the answer, ill ask another.

My goal is to have my truck around 500 horse, and still daily drivable, and still able to tow with. I'm going to do all the supporting mods, then buy the injectors last. I want to do all of this right so the setup is as reliable as it is powerful. I believe in doing things right, and doing them once. I don't wanna half ass it then have to do it right the second time. The injectors will be in the 238-300 cc range. I'm not sure exactly yet which i want to go with. Unless that is really important to know in order to buy other supporting mods, i'll leave the injector discussion til last.

I know the top end needs taken care of, valve springs, pushrods, and headstuds. I've heard studs aren't required for that HP level, but like i said, i want it reliable. So i guess my first question and topic of discussion is valve train. What do you guys recommend?

 

[4duggan]

Subscribed opcorn:

 

[weekendwarriorfsw32]

ARP studs, Either Comp 910 springs or look into Gogo diesels new kit, T-500 HPOP from Terminator, a regulated return or FRX, I would do a Airdog for plenty of fuel and no bigger than 238 Hybrids detuned for towing. How much do you plan to tow?

 

[Jake P]

I have a couple questions on studs, but ill get to that later. Do the 910s need to be shimmed? Ive been told that i should shim them like .030 or something. What about pushrods? HPO ill worry about later too once i figure out how healthy my stocker is. If i need more i'll probably do a home made Gen3 type setup.

I don't tow alot, but when i do it's heavy. Usually gross in the 20K +/- range. For a tow tune id keep it about where my tow tune is now so i don't have to worry about egt's. My current tow tune dynoed at 258 horse, which is plenty for sustained use, and is enough to keep about 20k at 60-70 mph up a 5% grade.

 

[Dieselboy.]

Id call Jake at Irate. He can get you everything you need

Comp 910s with a .030 shim will be sufficient.

ARP or H11 head studs are a must in my opinion. Just safer that way, a set of pushrods isnt needed 100%. Im on the fence between having the 3$ stocker fail as a safety. However if the stockers wont take the normal abuse then swap them. The extra 1000 for all that is a peace of mind. Plus when the injectors are out it makes access a bit easier.

Injectors I wouldnt waste my time with a 100% nozzle. A 250/200 will be perfect for your goal of 500hp, If not more. But it can be tuned out.
Your 38r may be on the fence at that level though. I would personally go with a T4 mount (again Jake makes a great one ) and an S366 with a .98 housing for a bit quicker spool-up for your towing needs.

As far as an oil pump the T-500 should work perfectly seeing as those 250/200s can be used with a good stock pump.

Fuel system, Jake makes a complete tank to heads kit. I personally like the dual SD pumps and his Reg return. I like having a second pump just in case one dies. That and the SD pumps are proven to last 200k+ miles.

And get a Scan gauge ! Such a necessity Ford should have put 'em in stock

 

[Magnum PD]

One reason for the headstuds is that after a fresh rebuild, you don't want to blow a head gasket. I got a thread on my rebuild if your interested.

 

[Jake P]

Id call Jake at Irate. He can get you everything you need

Comp 910s with a .030 shim will be sufficient.

ARP or H11 head studs are a must in my opinion. Just safer that way, a set of pushrods isnt needed 100%. Im on the fence between having the 3$ stocker fail as a safety. However if the stockers wont take the normal abuse then swap them. The extra 1000 for all that is a peace of mind. Plus when the injectors are out it makes access a bit easier.

Injectors I wouldnt waste my time with a 100% nozzle. A 250/200 will be perfect for your goal of 500hp, If not more. But it can be tuned out.
Your 38r may be on the fence at that level though. I would personally go with a T4 mount (again Jake makes a great one ) and an S366 with a .98 housing for a bit quicker spool-up for your towing needs.

As far as an oil pump the T-500 should work perfectly seeing as those 250/200s can be used with a good stock pump.

Fuel system, Jake makes a complete tank to heads kit. I personally like the dual SD pumps and his Reg return. I like having a second pump just in case one dies. That and the SD pumps are proven to last 200k+ miles.

And get a Scan gauge ! Such a necessity Ford should have put 'em in stock

Ill have to give them a call. I know Unlimited here in Bremen, OH can hook me up too. They are only about 2 hours from me. Headstuds can be put in one at a time without breaking the factory seal right? And what is the difference between ARP's and H11's? What do you mean as a safety for the pushrods?

For injectors i plan on going with a 200% nozzle. A good tuner should be able to tune them down for towing or daily driving without sky high egts.

I plan on running the 38r for now. Down the road if i get tired of worrying about it i will go with a t4 mount, but the nice thing about the 38r is that i can still keep it in work stock pulling classes.

How much is that fuel system? Will that provide room to grow too if i decide to go bigger later down the road?

And how important is the scangauge? I plan on getting an AE real soon.

One reason for the headstuds is that after a fresh rebuild, you don't want to blow a head gasket. I got a thread on my rebuild if your interested.

I'm interested, it might give me some ideas and pointers. I will never turn down the knowledge of another person. I still have the factory gaskets, but i still wanna run studs for piece of mind. I don't wanna have to tear into this again once i finish over something stupid i shoulda done to start with.

 

[JD3020]

Ill have to give them a call. I know Unlimited here in Bremen, OH can hook me up too. They are only about 2 hours from me. Headstuds can be put in one at a time without breaking the factory seal right? And what is the difference between ARP's and H11's? What do you mean as a safety for the pushrods?

For injectors i plan on going with a 200% nozzle. A good tuner should be able to tune them down for towing or daily driving without sky high egts.

I plan on running the 38r for now. Down the road if i get tired of worrying about it i will go with a t4 mount, but the nice thing about the 38r is that i can still keep it in work stock pulling classes.

I recommend Nate also. Its very nice being able to make a trip over to the shop, instead of having to communicate 100% over phone or e-mail/PM. Not sure though if Nate offers mounts.:shrug:

And i'm pretty sure he means leaving the stock pushrod as a safety is so that if there is piston-valve contact you'll just bend the pushrod instead of possibly breaking stuff.

 

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

I would keep a 80% nozzle opposed to what everyone else says if you are going to have a towing truck. you'll be real close to 500 (I made 477 with a s366 and 250/80% injectors) it will tow awesome for what you want to do. 200% nozzles are more directed to a hot street truck and defanitely will be too much for a single 66 (as far as compressor cfm) on a hot tune (which you will find yourself driving around in most of the time unloaded). Defanitely put a wastegate on the mount if you're going to a s366 with 74mm turbine and .91a/r turbine housing. Its a snappy street setup that rolls out pretty good to about a 13.0 in the 1/4 mile depending on the truck, and my setup is damn near smoke free on the dyno, at the track, and on the street most importantly.

 

[mattman347]

I would go down and talk with Nate about your build, having someone local that you buy from will be a valuable source for advice, product support, and information.

 

[Mike's Diesel Performance]

:whs: Nate is a stand up guy and will help lead you in the right direction!!

 

[Jake P]

I recommend Nate also. Its very nice being able to make a trip over to the shop, instead of having to communicate 100% over phone or e-mail/PM. Not sure though if Nate offers mounts.:shrug:

And i'm pretty sure he means leaving the stock pushrod as a safety is so that if there is piston-valve contact you'll just bend the pushrod instead of possibly breaking stuff.

Even with a stock pushrod, piston-valve contact is gonna ruin stuff. With heavy springs there shouldn't be any contact anyway. :shrug:

I would keep a 80% nozzle opposed to what everyone else says if you are going to have a towing truck. you'll be real close to 500 (I made 477 with a s366 and 250/80% injectors) it will tow awesome for what you want to do. 200% nozzles are more directed to a hot street truck and defanitely will be too much for a single 66 (as far as compressor cfm) on a hot tune (which you will find yourself driving around in most of the time unloaded). Defanitely put a wastegate on the mount if you're going to a s366 with 74mm turbine and .91a/r turbine housing. Its a snappy street setup that rolls out pretty good to about a 13.0 in the 1/4 mile depending on the truck, and my setup is damn near smoke free on the dyno, at the track, and on the street most importantly.

80% nozzles cant empty 250cc's of fuel quick enough though can they? If they cant it seems like it would be a waste to go with 250s then. Plus wouldn't a good tuner know how to tune them properly? Wouldn't you just increase ICP and shorten pulse width for the bigger nozzle?

I would go down and talk with Nate about your build, having someone local that you buy from will be a valuable source for advice, product support, and information.

I might end up doing that. Just go talk to him and take a boat load of cash.

 

[Dieselboy.]

Ill have to give them a call. I know Unlimited here in Bremen, OH can hook me up too. They are only about 2 hours from me. Headstuds can be put in one at a time without breaking the factory seal right? And what is the difference between ARP's and H11's? What do you mean as a safety for the pushrods?

For injectors i plan on going with a 200% nozzle. A good tuner should be able to tune them down for towing or daily driving without sky high egts.

I plan on running the 38r for now. Down the road if i get tired of worrying about it i will go with a t4 mount, but the nice thing about the 38r is that i can still keep it in work stock pulling classes.

How much is that fuel system? Will that provide room to grow too if i decide to go bigger later down the road?

And how important is the scangauge? I plan on getting an AE real soon.




I'm interested, it might give me some ideas and pointers. I will never turn down the knowledge of another person. I still have the factory gaskets, but i still wanna run studs for piece of mind. I don't wanna have to tear into this again once i finish over something stupid i shoulda done to start with.

Hands down, go see Nate.

I understand your reasoning for the 38r, fair enough. When I say a safety for the pushrods, I mean you will bend a 3$ stock pushrod if you have a valve to piston contact.

For a fuel system, most reg returns are around 500$ and I built the rest of mine for 250-300 with the added SD pump.

And yes if you change one stud at a time and torque them all to factory spec it wont disturb the head gasket. Once all the studs are in to factory spec (90lbs) I believe then go up to final torque spec.

AE is better than a scangauge. However its nice to have the scan gauge because it reads some parameters that AE does and only takes up a 2 1/16 gauge hole.

I would still get a 200% nozzle, after reading many of Charles posts Im sold that it is the best all around nozzle. The fuel can be tuned out to run in a stock truck. So you will be fine. It comes down to tuning.