HELP Potential MAJOR Problem

[doo dah]

Need guidance on EGR. Was removing the pipe to install a pyro and the 2 bolts at the manifold both broke off. There is a little portion sticking up but not much. Is this a major issue? Can I just use a permanent bonding agent that can withstand heat or is there enough pressure there to prevent it from holding? Can I run the engine to move the truck so I can get it towed without doing damage? I figure it would be like a major exhaust leak? I don't have the tools to get the bolts out and may have to take it somewhere to get it fixed.

 

[6.0 Tech]

I have had this happen several times, and honestly have had absolutely no luck drilling them out because they are so small. It tends to break the ez out when you attempt extraction. If you have some sticking up, possibly try welding a nut to the part of the bolt that is sticking up, if you have access to one. But i cant remember if they are magnetic or not so check that first. As far as moving it you should be ok to move it short distances. I have seen one in the shop that had the block off plate leaking, and he drove for a while, and it burned a hole thru the intake. I dont know about the bonding compounds. That area sees the most amount of heat, so it would have to be something that could withstand 1500+ to survive there. There will be as much pressure as there is ebp, so for overkill sake lets call it 60-75psi.

 

[doo dah]

I just need to back it up so I can get it out from behind my wife's car. I've deal with broken fasteners a number of time but none that were as light a material as these seem to be. I agree with drilling, it rarely works for me.

 

[CATDiezel]

To drill them.properly there is a diamond tip drill bit that needs to be used. If it's a flush break. If it's jagged then a diamond plated debur bit must be used to get a somewhat flat surface. Then a spring loaded center punch to punch the center for a guide on the drill bit.

I do believe someone has built a jig for this very procedure. Must use Google to find it.

After drilling the initial hole use KROIL oil and soak the top of the bolt. After allowing it to set for some time clean the surface with a fast drying break or carb cleaner. Keep a squirt gun (like the kind used to wet hair near by) and use a small torch propane or butane to heat the area around the bolt hole.

A snap on branded bolt extractor (square) should then be hammered lightly into the drilled hole and an extraction can be attempted then.

Some are much easier than others. The bolt is a hardened steel and most jobber drill bits will struggle. Hence the diamond tip bit.

I know you said you were not going to do it but maybe this might help whomever is going to attempt it for you if you don't yourself.

Goodluck!

 

[williamallen13]

Pb blaster on the nubs and vice grips to work them back and forth slowly. If the vice grips will hold. Or drill out the whole bolt and Re tap.

 

[ccmac]

I broke one bolt when ******** my 2012 so I just got a carbide bit and drilled all the way through the bolt and used a 5/16" bolt with a nut on the bottom side.

 

[ccmac]

This is the link to the special tool made for this issue

http://www.promaxxtool.com/nino.html

 

[Horsemover]

That sucks hope you get them out without too much grief

 

[HOUTX01X]

I just need to back it up so I can get it out from behind my wife's car. I've deal with broken fasteners a number of time but none that were as light a material as these seem to be. I agree with drilling, it rarely works for me.

Where you located? I have the manifold I took off mine if it would help you out.

When I did mine one came out easy the other didn't. I knew it was stuck and didn't want to break it off. I was able to move the pipe back and forth enough to break it free and remove in one piece.( not that it helps you now)

 

[Arconalloy]

Carbide! Use a carbide burr bit take your time

 

[doo dah]

Thanks for all the help guys. I have commitments today I can't miss so I just got some Blue Magic Quicksteel that is rated to 2400 degrees and used it as adhesive for the cap with the bung. Cleaned both surfaces and made sure I sealed it completely, just went to check on it and it is set like it is part of the manifold. I'm driving the wife's car today to give it some more time to set so I'll let you know how it works later this afternoon. Hopefully it works, if not my new turbo will come with manifolds..............:thumbup:

 

[MrGTO]

Take it to a local machine shop. I could get that bolt out in 10mins on my mill with no damage to your threads. I'd charge you enough to buy my lunch that day for doing it.

 

[HOUTX01X]

Thanks for all the help guys. I have commitments today I can't miss so I just got some Blue Magic Quicksteel that is rated to 2400 degrees and used it as adhesive for the cap with the bung. Cleaned both surfaces and made sure I sealed it completely, just went to check on it and it is set like it is part of the manifold. I'm driving the wife's car today to give it some more time to set so I'll let you know how it works later this afternoon. Hopefully it works, if not my new turbo will come with manifolds..............:thumbup:

Let me know if you need that side manifold. I have a few friends that make 2x weekly trips to San Antonio.

 

[doo dah]

Started it today and all was good, pyro was reading good temp and everything. Then, I gave the throttle a pop and it blew the cap right off. LOL, I guess that it can't hold the manifold pressure. I'll let you know if I need that manifold, going to talk to TSD tomorrow and see what I can get into a new turbo for before I start taking stuff apart myself.

 

[JRLott]

H&S or buy the manifold and call Midwest. I think your biggest "problem" is going to be fuel...as in not enough for a turbo upgrade. The more learned individuals will be along shortly to give the right answers or expound upon my gibberish.

 

[doo dah]

Called my local diesel shop and they want around 9k to install the H&S kit on my truck. They lift the cab to do the install. Sounds high to me? I can get the kit for less than 6k online so I'm thinking it might be worth taking a few days off work and do it myself to save?

 

[bdm1981]

No reason to lift the cab. It can all be installed with the cab on. Just takes a little time and patience. Like you said take a few days and you should be able to install it yourself. Saves you a bunch of money too.

 

[bigrpowr]

call me man , i'll walk you thru REAL options and what is an isn't possible .

 

[HOUTX01X]

Called my local diesel shop and they want around 9k to install the H&S kit on my truck. They lift the cab to do the install. Sounds high to me? I can get the kit for less than 6k online so I'm thinking it might be worth taking a few days off work and do it myself to save?

I did it recently in my garage. Was not difficult by any means. Took about day and half by myself. I had egr out already and ccv. That included going and getting a clamp and other items I needed. I do recommend a pad of some sort for your knees or a topside creeper I used the ol ladies pad she uses while gardening.

 

[doo dah]

I'm only 5'9" so with 6" lift and 37s it is plenty difficult to do much up top. I do have a full front replacement that has a little room for me to stand. I might still want to get the manifold from you, I have family in Katy so worst case would be for them to meet you and then I can coordinate with them for pick up. I'm not sure the budget is going to support a kit with new manifolds.