Let's talk gearing

torque beast

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I have a 2012 which I bought with 3:31 gears. I have added a 4.5 lift and 20x10 wheels with 35" toyo mt tires. I was thinking I would get my best mileage by keeping my RPM's low without lugging the engine and usually drive a lot of interstate roads where I cruise 75-80mph so my RPM's are 1800 give or take but several times I'm at 1600 rpm. Would like to hear from you that have changed from 3:31 to 4:10 and how it effected your mileage. Thinking I might get better by raising RPM's a bit but would take load off the engine.
 

RedRice589

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I wouldn't go 4.10 I would go 3.73. If you're towing a lot then go 4.10 the ease is awesome on the motor npbut you lack fuel mileage unhooked. Also depends on your speeds around you. If you drive easy 4.10 isn't bad if you push it like I do it's hard to stand 4.10's running 80 everywhere.
 

torque beast

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Yes, 75-80 most of the time. Looking at dyno charts stock would put me ok at 1600-1700 but with H&S program I have on it it looks like I need to be above 1800 to be most efficient. Anyone agree
 

griz700rocket

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but peak power/torque is not where your best mileage is going to be unless your running nearly a full load all the time.
 

torque beast

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but peak power/torque is not where your best mileage is going to be unless your running nearly a full load all the time.


Not sure but before tuning it I was getting my best mileage around 1600-1700 but after installing H&S it seems to get better around 1800. No actually data to back it up on paper but checking fuel mileage at different speeds over several different trips seemed to lean that way. Not a huge difference though maybe .5 mpg
 

TANK'S 250

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Remember one thing...gear charts only take into consideration the final gearing....not the rotational mass or weight of the larger tire...though you only went up to 35's, it probably won't make that much difference.

4.10's will cost about $1,000 per axle to regear(parts and labor)....it will take quite a few years to recoup the savings you MIGHT see in fuel.
 

torque beast

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That's what I have been thinking as well. There is a difference in rotational mass which would make things work easier by gearing down which is why I was wondering if adding 200 rpm BUT letting the engine work less would get better mileage. Not too worried about the cost since most mods don't pay for themselves anyway.
 

Jesse_01

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I have really been wanting to go from 3.73s to 3.31s in my truck, but I run 31" rubber.

If you live somewhere that you can see your dog run away for days, than 3.31 are great for you. If you tow and have mtns 3.31 isn't the greatest.

Do you have a lowering kit with 31" tires?

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Stangr8cr

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I have really been wanting to go from 3.73s to 3.31s in my truck, but I run 31" rubber.


Wish you were closer, I'd swap you my 3.31 front and rears for your 3.73s. That'd be sweet if I could find someone local wanting to do that!!


Keith
 

BWCbuilt

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If you live somewhere that you can see your dog run away for days, than 3.31 are great for you. If you tow and have mtns 3.31 isn't the greatest.

Do you have a lowering kit with 31" tires?

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4.3 days actually.

But yeah, eastern South Dakota.....lowered RCSB 2wd. I live in the butthole of nowhere, so I put on a lot of miles... cruising 80-90 most of the time. 3.31s would be awesome.
 

Jesse_01

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This is gonna be a real noob question. I you have 4WD do you have to change out front and back gears.







not exactly...you can run totally different gears in the front and back...

.....as long as you NEVER run on anything other than soft sand....LOL
Or pull the front drive shaft.


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Jesse_01

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4.3 days actually.

But yeah, eastern South Dakota.....lowered RCSB 2wd. I live in the butthole of nowhere, so I put on a lot of miles... cruising 80-90 most of the time. 3.31s would be awesome.

Oh fun. The type of country where you fall asleep as at the wheel and you wake up in a feild in the middle of nowhere.


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