oil talk

[slc6oh]

so I keep searching with no luck, I fell like im doing it wrong, but im coming up on time for an oil change, have t6 in it now, its oil, it works, still sounds like a diesel, still starts the same as before I changed it, but at time I changed the oil last, I did away with the egr cooler and replaced the oil cooler 5000 mi ago. (with the t6)

with the egr gone, that in theory lessens the stress / demand on the oil correct?

with the cold start issue fully understood, and winter coming up, is there any other mechanical reason to not just run a regular rotella 15w40 or delo400 15w40? or Delvac? all of witch I can get for next to free, (delvac is whats on tap at my shop and would be pennies on the dollar literally) but not gonna run any of em if they are garbage oil.

obviously if cold starts become an issue, id go back to 5w40

hate to be that guy bringing up the major can of worms opinion thread, but jus lookin for some insight? anyone run anything other than the high dollar oil with good luck?

hell I even have an oil sample machine too, to keep an eye on things, just not gonna want to completely waste my time if someones already been down this road

 

[ThreeFitty]

so I keep searching with no luck, I fell like im doing it wrong, but im coming up on time for an oil change, have t6 in it now, its oil, it works, still sounds like a diesel, still starts the same as before I changed it, but at time I changed the oil last, I did away with the egr cooler and replaced the oil cooler 5000 mi ago. (with the t6)

with the egr gone, that in theory lessens the stress / demand on the oil correct?

with the cold start issue fully understood, and winter coming up, is there any other mechanical reason to not just run a regular rotella 15w40 or delo400 15w40? or Delvac? all of witch I can get for next to free, (delvac is whats on tap at my shop and would be pennies on the dollar literally) but not gonna run any of em if they are garbage oil.

obviously if cold starts become an issue, id go back to 5w40

hate to be that guy bringing up the major can of worms opinion thread, but jus lookin for some insight? anyone run anything other than the high dollar oil with good luck?

hell I even have an oil sample machine too, to keep an eye on things, just not gonna want to completely waste my time if someones already been down this road

Oil is oil, but on trucks like these I don't see a reason to cheap out on oil. Sure your standard oil like regular rotella or your shops delvac will work just fine, just like it worked before synthetics became so popular. My point is that is 80 bucks in oil that will last 5000 miles, maybe more, if you don't work the truck hard. There are people that swear that T6 goes 10,000 miles in their trucks and oil tests come back great, I just don't see a need for that. On my 7.3 I noticed a significant aid in cold starting with T6 compared to the regular rotella I was running, but I would definitely not flip flop between synthetic and non synthetic for winter and summer. So at the end of this rant, my question is why cheap out on such an expensive investment?

 

[slc6oh]

Oh 5000mi to me is plenty no matter the oil...but Not somuch about "cheaping out" as not spending the extra $ if it at the end of the day really isnt needed ya know? The dd15 engine i work on day in day out the oil change interval is 50,000mi... Whitch just over 5 years ago same engine same oil the interval was 10k mi, yes thats a common rail engine and it holds 40qts, but to me thats confidence in oil saying you can drive around 80,000# for 50k mi on the regular ole dyno oil. Any engine ive ever pulled apart i cant recall any because of lube related failures. And these engines clearances are tight tight....

Are the hpop and hpo sysems that sensitive? That nazi-like strictness with 5000mi oil changes with a GOOD dyno oil is still risky?


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[ThreeFitty]

Oh 5000mi to me is plenty no matter the oil...but Not somuch about "cheaping out" as not spending the extra $ if it at the end of the day really isnt needed ya know? The dd15 engine i work on day in day out the oil change interval is 50,000mi... Whitch just over 5 years ago same engine same oil the interval was 10k mi, yes thats a common rail engine and it holds 40qts, but to me thats confidence in oil saying you can drive around 80,000# for 50k mi on the regular ole dyno oil. Any engine ive ever pulled apart i cant recall any because of lube related failures. And these engines clearances are tight tight....

Are the hpop and hpo sysems that sensitive? That nazi-like strictness with 5000mi oil changes with a GOOD dyno oil is still risky?


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No, there isn't going to be a single problem running dino oil in these trucks, there is no measurable amount of lube differences. But hpo systems are picky, what ever oil you run stick to that oil and be strict with 5k change, if you end up choosing a dino oil I really would only go 3500 miles, 4k at the most. Oil just becomes dirtier faster as it is put under such high pressures and then low pressures endlessly, it breaks down oil more than a common rail engine. But like I said the synthetic oil does help in the cold, even here in CT we saw negative temperatures last year and every bit helps

 

[slc6oh]

Yea. Here in salt lake its rare we get below 10deg or so, thats still cold as piss but alotta guys have it alot worse. Ha


Appreciate the insight, really jus trying to pick brains and get some opinions/experiences


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[lincolnlocker]

always, always run a good synthetic in a 6.blow.. if not, then dont complain about sticktion issues when it happens, and it will, unless you go with a stupid low oci, like sub 2k miles ... spool valves are way more picky about oil then a poppet in a 7.3 injector! i absolutely hate rotella anything but stick with the t6 synthetic over dino oil... or stock up on archoil and rev-ex..

live life full throttle

 

[ThreeFitty]

always, always run a good synthetic in a 6.blow.. if not, then dont complain about sticktion issues when it happens, and it will, unless you go with a stupid low oci, like sub 2k miles ... spool valves are way more picky about oil then a poppet in a 7.3 injector! i absolutely hate rotella anything but stick with the t6 synthetic over dino oil... or stock up on archoil and rev-ex..

live life full throttle

This is also true, good point

 

[morepower02]

I have 2 2005 6.0 trucks and have been running 5w-40 valvoline synthetic for the last 5 years in both. Huge difference in run ability over the old 15w40. I run 8k oil changes one is at 220k and the other 140k both start and run as good as be in summer and better in the winter then new.

 

[bad moose]

Valvoline extreme blue 5w40 here also. No injector problems for 0ver 5 years. Runs clean and quiet, starts good in the cold with no to very little stiction on start ups.

Agree with Lincolnlocker on the rest of it.

 

[slc6oh]

Ive always ran valvoline everything in everything (regular ole 5/20 in my 3v f150 for bout the 100k hard miles i put on it) my two previous cars too ive always sworn by it as a brand of oil. Ill look more into valvoline 5/40. Trucks currently @ 131k with new injectors less than 20k ago, so most importantly i just wanna keep up on everything, just curious as if the extra $ is really worth it at the end of the day (even tho common sense says it is ya never know) reason went with the t6 is just the overall name rotella has for it in the diesel world let alone the wet clutch sport atv world as a cheap-hard to beat, oil


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[lincolnlocker]

Ive always ran valvoline everything in everything (regular ole 5/20 in my 3v f150 for bout the 100k hard miles i put on it) my two previous cars too ive always sworn by it as a brand of oil. Ill look more into valvoline 5/40. Trucks currently @ 131k with new injectors less than 20k ago, so most importantly i just wanna keep up on everything, just curious as if the extra $ is really worth it at the end of the day (even tho common sense says it is ya never know) reason went with the t6 is just the overall name rotella has for it in the diesel world let alone the wet clutch sport atv world as a cheap-hard to beat, oil


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10yrs ago rotella was #1 in the dino oil world.. not so much at all now.. theres only a handful of guys that run 15-40 rotella in a heui system, just because they dont know any better, haha...

live life full throttle

 

[jimdawg185]

All my customers with 6.0s run our 8854 5w40. Only limitation I've had is fuel dilution. Otherwise the oil works well in them. Ive got a couple of guys with very bad stiction switching over soon as well to see how the oil helps, or doesn't help, as our proprietary additive Monolec is similar to revx and zmax in some ways and is already in the oil with a perfectly balanced chemistry.


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[04cr450]

Delo 400 full synthetic 5w-40 has great reviews.. tried it and oil analysis came back better than Mobil 1.. go figure...

 

[lincolnlocker]

All my customers with 6.0s run our 8854 5w40. Only limitation I've had is fuel dilution. Otherwise the oil works well in them. Ive got a couple of guys with very bad stiction switching over soon as well to see how the oil helps, or doesn't help, as our proprietary additive Monolec is similar to revx and zmax in some ways and is already in the oil with a perfectly balanced chemistry.


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hmmmmm, ole red might be a good candidate for that! she has some pretty good stiction on cold starts..

live life full throttle

 

[powerstroked08]

In all honesty I would talk to Jim(jimdog185) he knows more about oil than probably anybody you will ever meet. He's a great guy to talk to and deal with. He will get you the best oil for your truck.

 

[jimdawg185]

I am always available to discuss tribology.


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[Maryland dieselnick]

In addition to all the other benefits of synthetics, I really like its cleansing effect.

 

[jimdawg185]

They clean very well if changed often. But a group 3 mineral will carry the add pack better in general during extended drain intervals unless expensive esters or, group 3s are added to the group 4 PAO base stock to properly carry the detergent package. We do the latter, and thats why my engine is so damn clean even at 20-25k mile oil change intervals and coolant in the oil from a cracked block.


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[lincolnlocker]

They clean very well if changed often. But a group 3 mineral will carry the add pack better in general during extended drain intervals unless expensive esters or, group 3s are added to the group 4 PAO base stock to properly carry the detergent package. We do the latter, and thats why my engine is so damn clean even at 20-25k mile oil change intervals and coolant in the oil from a cracked block.


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by normal standards, your block should look horribly gummed up with coolant in it.

live life full throttle

 

[jimdawg185]

It should also be in a hundred pieces too. Part of the equation is the oil. The other part is I've been really lucky, because this thing shouldn't be running at all let alone as well as it does. I drive 1000 miles a week, and every week I say to myself this will be the week she lets loose, and then she doesn't. I must have done something right in my life....


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