Re gearing

2000wa250

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I've been thinking for awhile now about purchasing either a trutrac ls for the rear or an e-locker, not sire which one is better but I think it'd be pretty sweet to have e-locker in the rear and possibly the front as well. However, I am a complete novice when it comes to gears and differentials so im wondering if you guys can give me a quick run through of the basics. Also what are the positives and negatives of 4.10 gears vs 3.73. I rode in mu buddies obs with 35's and 4.10's and love how much faster the acceleration feels compared to my truck.

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Dieselboy.

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Faster accel but less top end. Worse mileage.

Personally with a 6spd trans I would stick with 3:73s up to 38s. 37s with an auto.

For the amount of money it will cost you to swap the gears for a minimal difference. Espescially at the power level you are at now.
 

PowerstrokeJunkie

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You will not notice enough of a difference to offset the cost involved in a .4 numerical gear change, from 3.73 to 4.10. Changing gear ratio is not only expensive, but a total bitch to do
 

2000wa250

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Only reason I ask is if I am going have a locker put in the back would it be worth it to change to 4.10s to get a little bit more torque to the wheels.

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2000wa250

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I have 250/200% with jakes s467 turbo twin hpops and reg return...I should have enough power. Only thing I can think of that would account for why I feel.the truck is sluggish is the rear end gearing.

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2000wa250

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So why do you say that...I mean other than the cost....is it the higher rpm cruising down the highway? Does it make the six speed go through gears too fast? I just feel like I have no power from a stop...like I have to get moving slowly before I have any power

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2000wa250

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I have cales tuning. Live tuning will be in may. Still have to install the twin pumps and finish up the fuel system.

Personally I think it's a leak, either on the boost side or the exhaust side. Because I haven't had any issues building boost so far, I've been able to pop boots off and peg out my 30 psi gauge but like I said earlier unless I roll into it at about 30 I have a good amount of smoke and it feels like it bogs down at anything under 2100

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Dieselboy.

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You need a different boost gauge. Get a 60lber.

That way you can see, you should make over 40lbs. Then watch your pyro(s).

What about fuel PSI. Alot of things can effect performance. Like I said your gonna shell out a lot of coin for minimal difference, and most likely the wrong difference.
 

2000wa250

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Makes sense to me. Dual SD pump fuel system is in the works, and I should have the twin termies on soon. Pretty sure I'm just gonna go ahead and order new boots and clamps from riffraff and clean out my intercoooler as well. Lot of work ahead. 60psi boost gauge is on the list as well. I have a buddy who will buy both my egt gauge and boost gauge, so I am thinking of working something out with him where he just buys a pair of gauges that I want and we straight swap. Who knows. I know for a fact that I have got to be leaking boost or exhaust somewhere for me not to be able to peg this gauge. That or the 6637 is to restrictive, which I doubt because I've read about plenty of people who have them and are running plenty of boost.

I am a bit cautious of running the RPM's up too high as I do not have springs or rods or studs yet...
 

Dieselboy.

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Your playing with fire without rods/studs/springs yet. At least studs.

If you only have a 30psi gauge you cant really tell if you are leaking boost.

That and what is your fuel system ? A stock SD pump will not keep up with those injectors on its best day, so that could be a reason why your not seeing your expected performance.

And might I add, with the amount of money we spend doing are motors, buck up and buy a second pyro to monitor both banks. 160$ to know whats happening on both sides of your motor is a nessecity. If you go with Autometer pyros spend the extra 40 and order the compression fitting for the probe with the weld in bung. (5255) for 40$. Trust me the ****ty band clamp and tap brass fitting they supply is sh!t and will leak. Ask me how I know.
 

MadDiesel73

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Yea definitely need the dual fuel Pumps to make sure your getting enough fuel. A single stock pumps not enough. And if you still have a stock hpop the twins will for sure help your low end!
 

2000wa250

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Studs and springs are on the list. I made sure cale knew I didn't have them, and asked that the injectors be tuned down. Fuel system is in the works.

So spent the better half of the day going over boots and clamps....found at least part of the issue....the y pipe had slid up from the plenums and the boot was barely on....clamp wasn't even on top of the pipe. Fixed that and took it for a test drive and its running much better.:banghead:

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