Stock bottom end build

[JD3020]

Since we're getting close to winter i'm starting to plan out the engine for my project truck. The goal is a responsive 6-700hp truck, but limit the fuel down low to help keep stock rods alive. I'll be tuning the truck myself so i don't think that'll be a huge issue. I plan to race, sled pull, DD, and tow with this truck, basically do whatever i want with it. The big kicker is i'm trying to keep this build on a very tight budget, so only doing whats necessary. Thoughts?

What i have right now:
Healthy 2000 longblock, 140k miles, forged rods, bottom end looks to be in great shape. Ran strong when i pulled it.
Full Force 250/200%'s
T4 mount and a S468/83. I plan on getting a 1.0 T4 housing for it
Swamps IDM
Melling LPOP
T444E HPOP reservoir, gear, and Haldex pump

What i'm planning on:
Ceramic coated manifolds and up-pipes, with a turbo blanket
Studs and Comp beehive springs
Dual SD fuel pump/sump/and everything else you find on your typical fuel system


Things i'm on the fence about:
Colt stage 2 cam
ATI or Fluidampr

 

[97stoker350]

More like very low 600s with that setup. Should be fun. I wish I could've coated my exhaust system. Not much insulation in the obs trucks

 

[JD3020]

^I'm figuring on low 600's if i run a stock cam. But i'm thinking a cam and coating all the pre-turbo stuff should help it make a little more power(maybe, maybe not)Ultimately i'd love to get ported heads, really aggressive cam, and machined pistons but i don't have $5k laying around. LOL

I'm also considering getting these injectors bumped up which would make more power easier, but i doubt it'd be cheap. I'll have to send FFD an e-mail to see what it'd cost.

 

[ghohouston]

haldex pump is for steering, right?

 

[4.0l sahara]

haldex pump is for steering, right?

gen3 style set up.

 

[isootmypants]

Been in the boat you're in now. Save an extra 2500 and get rods. Your butthole is gonna be puckered EVERYTIME you matt it, knowing you didn't do rods. I'm looking at it in this way.... Spend it now, down once. Don't spend it now, down twice, spend double.

Yea I know there has been people that hit 1000 with stock rods. BUT, they trashed everything. Why risk it if you know you'll be at the threshold of those rods?

 

[Powerstroker7.3]

I bumped up my ff250/100 to 300/200 for only around 750. That included nozzle increase and i also went with a Gearhead stage one cam and a mild head port. My 72mm turbo spools just about as good as my 38r did. Really worth it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[97stoker350]

Yes do yourself a favor and get rods. When mine let go. All I had left were the stuff from the heads up

 

[JD3020]

I'd love billet rods, but by the time i factor in rods, bearings, gaskets, and whatever else i'd need i'd be looking at $3k+ on top of the $1500 in other engine mods i still have to do and everything else. No way i'm gonna spend that kind of money on this truck right now. Plus i have a spare forged rod engine on the shelf if i ever needed it.

 

[ghohouston]

gen3 style set up.

even on the t444e's?

 

[JD3020]

No, its just the pump used in Gen 3's.

 

[97stoker350]

I'd reconsider but it's Ur truck and ur money

 

[OBS-Addiction97]

I don't see anything wrong with the stock forged block for now.. Especially for how cheap they are. Mine has 262 k and is still holding together.

 

[JD3020]

Exactly, if it blows oh well. Slap another one in and back the power down some. Plus I have good luck finding healthy complete engines for nothing. I've bought one for $500, 2 for $700, and this current one is essentially free as it came out of a parts truck. Just cost me time and labor. And the more i think about it the only way i'd do a billet rod engine is to do a full build, from the ground up. So balancing, piston work, mainstuds, bore/hone, etc... None of which i'll be doing for a very long time. Would i love to go that route? Hell yeah, who wouldn't. But i don't exactly have $5k laying around to throw into an engine for this project.