STUDDED AND STILL PUKING

Tay5985

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Just as the title states my truck has studs and still pukes coolant... it has ARP studs, full egr delete, 6.4 banjos and upgraded fuel regulator and spring....it is really tempermental...if i run any of my 3 hotter tunes, looney wild, extreme race, or extreme street it pukes occasionally but its spiratic...there are some days i go out and beat on it pretty bad and it wont do anything but other days i will drive it pretty normal and get on it every once in a while and it will puke coolant... it will not do it if im not tuned or if im runnin erics tow power.... im gonna try hooking up to my buddys 12k toy hauler and detune it and see if it pukes....... ANY IDEAS???????
 

DEEZUZ

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were the heads machined and crack checked? Was the block prepped right?
 

SIX_OHH

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No reason to even ask. Might as well pull the cab off a redo it
 

Tay5985

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they werent machined but were checked... i had a ford tech do them and has done over 100 for the local diesel shop....he does studs and egr deletes on them all the time and has never had a problem with them again with the exception of mine
 

kyle43335

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they werent machined but were checked... i had a ford tech do them and has done over 100 for the local diesel shop....he does studs and egr deletes on them all the time and has never had a problem with them again with the exception of mine

thats prolly your problem. did this tech even put a straight edge on them? ford usually fails at the head gasket game. you will prolly need to have someone (recommend not the same tech) re pull the cab and do it again.
 

Cobra 19 & 54

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agreed, FORD's spec and real world are two very different. I have been told so many different things about the tolerance for 6.0 heads, and the realistic part is to just have them machined so you are 100% positive.
 

wetnsloppy4x

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Yep, if that Ford tech even bothered to use a straight edge on them, he likely used the specs Ford is making them stick to out of habit/what he knows. Ford is using some pretty liberal tolerances these days to get out of spending so much $$$ to make them right.

Done right, it shouldn't puke.

Like these guys said, you're looking at pulling the heads again. This time, take the heads to a reputable machine shop that has experience with 6.0 head machining.

I'm curious what the tech did, if anything, for block prep. There is a youtube vid showing how the dealers are supposed to prep the block. It involves using a flat steel bar to give you a hint what you're looking for.

I've been waiting to hear feedback on this method. It doesn't seem too many around the forums have tried that method.
 

jdgleason

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Another thing to check will be your oil cooler. Probably not the problem, but may be an underlying issue. If it were me, I would machine the heads, have someone check the plane of the block as well, and install a new oil cooler.
 

Heavyhaul

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I realize this is far fetched but the injector cups share cylinder pressure and coolant as well. The head gaskets are probably the problem though.
 

chappy

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I would start by checking the oil cooler and does it have an updated coolant cap on it? My oil cooler plugged and it started puking. It was already studded and egr deleted for years. Changed the oil cooler and still pucked sometimes so I ahnged to the update cap and has yet to puke.
 

cfdeng7

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Also another thing is they had the updated degas bottle stickers for max and min level. Idk if you have the sticker but if you don't and you fill it all the way to max I have heard of trucks puking untill the level lowers then they are fine. May not be the issue but worth checking out before you pull it apart.
 

da94broncodude

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the oil cooler was supposed to be done when the studs egr delete etc were done, and with the updated cooler as well, fluid is at the updated lower level, degas bottle cap is new
 

SaNnDnSurF

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I'm in the same exact boat as you I had my heads machined, studs, and delete and yesterday I popped the hood and it had puked a bit below the min line it had been fine for three months but I guess it's messed up again.
 

Strictly Diesel

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We've done a mess of 6.0L trucks and the sad reality is that there is no such thing as "bullet proof" when it comes to head gaskets. The closest you can come is pulling the entire engine, having the heads AND the block surfaced, heads pressure tested and magnafluxed and repairing as necessary, using studs, quality gaskets and o-ringing the heads. It would be best to do the coolers while it's down too.

Most people don't do the block or o-ringing, and I would say that 99% of the trucks we do don't come back...provided they had us surface the heads (no warranty without the headwork). It's that 1% that is the most aggravating though...trucks where we did do the head surfacing, did use new studs, did use quality gaskets, did the coolers and they still have a failure. We've had a few where we ended up having to pull the block and have it decked (rare, but occasionally necessary).

The simple fact is that installing head studs, machining head surfaces and upgrading coolers is not "re-engineering" a poor design. There are still only 4 studs per cylinder, the load is still not as evenly distrubuted as it should be, it's still a 6.0L...just with a few upgraded parts and higher tolerance machine work. It's better than stock, but expecting it to be as good as an engine with more evenly distributed clamping force (18 bolts per head like a 7.3L or Duramax) is asking for too much.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be "Mr. Negative"...it's just that we talk to so many 6.0L owners day in and day out and the expectation is that throwing some aftermarket parts at the engine will make everything "the way it should be". In reality, it makes them better, but still less than ideal. For the average 6.0L owners daily driver, with moderate modifictions and typical towing usage, most can expect a significantly more reliable truck with these modifications. For those on the more extreme end of the performance scale, the chance of a failure will always still be there...just hopefully prolonged.
 

SaNnDnSurF

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Went out and bought the "upgraded" cap and so far it's holding well after a few hard runs so keeping fingers crossed
 

Mdub707

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I would start by checking the oil cooler and does it have an updated coolant cap on it?.

Also another thing is they had the updated degas bottle stickers for max and min level..

These!

The simple fact is that installing head studs, machining head surfaces and upgrading coolers is not "re-engineering" a poor design. There are still only 4 studs per cylinder, the load is still not as evenly distrubuted as it should be, it's still a 6.0L...just with a few upgraded parts and higher tolerance machine work. It's better than stock, but expecting it to be as good as an engine with more evenly distributed clamping force (18 bolts per head like a 7.3L or Duramax) is asking for too much.

6.4's still use this crummy design and hold quite a bit more power, granted their bolts are larger, but they share the same heads, and don't seem to have nearly the issues the 6.0's do.

Went out and bought the "upgraded" cap and so far it's holding well after a few hard runs so keeping fingers crossed

Awesome news, that's the easy fix. Has the coolant bottle itself ever been replaced?
 

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