TIME FOR A REBUILD

[03lariat7.3]

Coming home from christmas the truck decided to give up. Pulled up to a stop sign and started to knock really bad and smoke. Shut it off and waited for my D-max friend to come trailer me home. Pulled it into the shop and removed valve covers, no noticable damage (valve springs, rockers, etc.). removed injector #3 and found the bottom o-ring had shrunk and was black in color. Too hot? Anyway need to pull the rest out and inspect them. Thinking I have a cracked piston because there is oil in the exhaust and fuel in the crankcase. Decided to rebulild it because it is paid off and dont want to finance another pickup, although I would love a 6.4. Heres my build...opinions appreciated.

-Cryod forged rods, No more PMR's!! :redspotdance:
-Riffraff Rebuild kit w/ machined bowls, on the fence with Mahle ceramic pistons.
-Gearhead Stage 1 cam with new lifters
-Cam bearings
-Headstuds, 910 spings, SB pushrods
-Fluiddampr
-New valve stem seals
-Swamps IDM, HV, HF
-Injector cups
-T-500 HPOP
-Possible Irate t-4 setup with s366
-BD intercooler
Not included is machine work, and injectors back to FF diesel to get checked out and flow tested. Shooting for a good reliable DD and used for towing. Truck currently has hard driven and pulled 178k. Its kinda funny when my friend was pulling me home with his d-max he couldnt maintain 65 mph in the hills, when I know the ol stroke would bear down and pull it.

 

[TyCorr]

How do you know the burnt injector isnt the culprit. Could.be.black because the injector cup in that cylinder is cracked. You might be making a mountain out of a molehill. Is.that cylinder full of.fuel?

To have the most calculated degree of reliability Id honestly not.piss with forged rods. Its wreckless in my mind to rebuild a motor that makes +500 hp with forged rods. Its.different if you tossed a good fr longblock in and bolted all those parts on it and let it.rip. Just a thought. I wouldnt do what you are about to.

 

[03lariat7.3]

How do you know the burnt injector isnt the culprit. Could.be.black because the injector cup in that cylinder is cracked. You might be making a mountain out of a molehill. Is.that cylinder full of.fuel?

Thats what im not sure yet need to get it all disassembled. Kinda expecting the worst and hoping for the best. Why would there be fuel in the oil pan with a bad injector cup?

 

[Wackerjr]

I would guess cracked nozzle, or broken nozzle....

Unless there is a rod out the side of the block, Drain the oil, refill it, and crank it over slowly by hand first......

IMO it was a fuel knock... "hydrolocking"

I bet motors fine....

 

[TyCorr]

Edited my last post...

Wackerjr is of the same thought I am.

 

[Wackerjr]

Thats what im not sure yet need to get it all disassembled. Kinda expecting the worst and hoping for the best. Why would there be fuel in the oil pan with a bad injector cup?

Fuel is in the pan because it is being pushed by the rings.....

 

[03lariat7.3]

I would guess cracked nozzle, or broken nozzle....

Unless there is a rod out the side of the block, Drain the oil, refill it, and crank it over slowly by hand first......

IMO it was a fuel knock... "hydrolocking"

I bet motors fine....

Thats my other thought, not gonna know until I get all the injectors out and checked. Hoping it didnt wash a clyinder in the process. Truck did start again to drive on the trailer but was hydrolocking when cranking it over. And no rod hanging out of the block....thank god

 

[Wackerjr]

you got an injector issue... Broken/cracked nozzle, or just hung open...

get em fixed, buy the turbo kit... and be happy it wasn't 10 grand instead of 3

 

[03lariat7.3]

you got an injector issue... Broken/cracked nozzle, or just hung open...

get em fixed, buy the turbo kit... and be happy it wasn't 10 grand instead of 3

I am sure you are correct, like i said earlier i have to expect the worst. Still give me an excuse to to do pushrods, spings and studs and the ol lady wont know the difference!!

 

[TyCorr]

Dude, im not an expert, or even that up to.speed but.with the amount of power those hybrids make you'd be foolish to dikc with anything less than billet rods in a rebuild. Or get a forged motor and.swap your parts over. By the time you get forged rods checked, treated, peened, etc how much are you going to to save? Also, you didnt mention balancing in there.

I know its easy for me to spend your money but im actually in a the same.boat but in a different seat. My truck is a forged motor that I pulled lazt week to clean up, reseal, build the valvetrain, install injectors. Basically everything BUT the bottom end. Now im thinkin Im gonna.kick myself for leaving those stock rods in there. 275 hybrids laying on the workbench might be a handful for those.rods.

Just some more for you to nibble on. Id almost bet you just need new cups and injectors.though.

 

[hiniker88]

Just sell your truck to me then you do not have to worry about what went wrong

 

[Arisley]

Just fix the injector. Change the oil and drive it. Change the oil again in 500 miles. Gives it time to clean the junk out.

Worst case is something bad is wrong and you get the experience of tossing a rod.


Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.

 

[03lariat7.3]

Pulled all injectors and found the #3 injector copper seal ring had failed putting compression back into the injector cup. Thats why the o-ring looked so bad. All the other injectors looked fine. Going to replace all cups and injector o-rings, also 910 springs, studs and pushrods while im in there.

 

[03lariat7.3]

Just sell your truck to me then you do not have to worry about what went wrong

Come on Paul, we have been through this...........cash talks!oke:

 

[7.3psd97444]

Pulled all injectors and found the #3 injector copper seal ring had failed putting compression back into the injector cup. Thats why the o-ring looked so bad. All the other injectors looked fine. Going to replace all cups and injector o-rings, also 910 springs, studs and pushrods while im in there.

Good deal! :thumbsup:

I was hoping reading throught this that it wasnt a cracked injector tip. Which would be very uncommon anyway with the 100% nozzle.

 

[Short Bus]

I would guess cracked nozzle, or broken nozzle....

Unless there is a rod out the side of the block, Drain the oil, refill it, and crank it over slowly by hand first......

IMO it was a fuel knock... "hydrolocking"

I bet motors fine....

That's the first thing that came to my mind as well.

 

[cjfarm11]

I have had mine do that exact same thing. I just re-oringed and reinstalled the injectors and back up and running. Sounds like you got lucky