[Urgent] P1391/P1393/P1316 Misfiring Barely Moves At WOT

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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So I got a buddy has a 2000 F-350 CCSB DRW Lariat LE (Yes LE) 175,000 miles. He called me last night and told me that the truck was misfiring barely could move at WOT. I told him to pull codes sent me this codes P1391/P1393 /P1316/P1211. So this morning went down to his house started the truck started normal/normal idle. Hooked up AE pulled the same codes cleared the codes checked oil level. Checked ICP 650 PSI at 12% IPR DC at idle shut it off. Ran a buzz test both banks test sound strong but passenger was weaker than the driverside. Started it still idling normal and ran a CCT Came up with cylinder #8 code (which is common for the grey CPS) Tried to take it for a drive 50 FT down the road ICP/DC was normal then it immediately started misfiring (still normal ICP/DC) no power at WOT could barely move. Checked codes again no codes other than P1316. Parked it immediately pulled the valve covers checked driverside first. UVCH on the driverside was tight no burnt pins checked out good. Pulled every injector electrical connector one by one checked out good. Then we pulled the passenger side VC checked the UVCH. Clip was hanging and it was loose. No burnt pins but inside the connector was soaked in oil (first time I seen oil in a UVCH connector). We immediately ordered parts from ford.

2 VC Gaskets

2 UCVH

New CPS (Just to eliminate any problems with the CPS even though there is no code just for peace of mind)

New GPR

Every time we turn the KOEO the GPR throws a little spark. Anybody know what causing that. Thinking its bad but is that's whats causing the truck to throw the 1391 and 1393 codes? (Truck starts up easy no problems starting up hot or cold WTS light works as normal,batteries are new battery voltage is normal.)

Going to pick up the parts in the morning.

What you folks think really hope the UVCH's and VC GPR, CPS etc fixes the problem. He has to tow his excavator on Thursday. Thanks fellas sorry for the long post. All help/suggestions are welcome.
 
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TARM

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Did it cause a hard code where the light came on or only the P1316 where you had to hook up to know you had it?

I know when I had my fuellab pump blow fuses and die constantly what you are seeing as far as engine power symptoms are exactly what I had. Idle fine no issues other than it had no power. You likely stay on top of things but have you tried changing the fuel filter. Maybe you got a bad tank of fuel and it clogged the filter? That is if the pump checks out. If you are stock fuel bowl there is a test port on the side of the bowl. I do not recall the thread size though.
 

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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Did it cause a hard code where the light came on or only the P1316 where you had to hook up to know you had it?

I know when I had my fuellab pump blow fuses and die constantly what you are seeing as far as engine power symptoms are exactly what I had. Idle fine no issues other than it had no power. You likely stay on top of things but have you tried changing the fuel filter. Maybe you got a bad tank of fuel and it clogged the filter? That is if the pump checks out. If you are stock fuel bowl there is a test port on the side of the bowl. I do not recall the thread size though.

Hi Tarm thanks for your reply IDK he said it never did throw or flash the SES. FF is new he changed it on 4/14/14 (Ford Filter) but I checked it anyways it was clean no dirt in the bowl. Bowl filled up with the KOEO. We will be changing the fuel pump (Just to be safe).

So parts wise

(Ford said special order and were trying to see if they will expedited it)

2 UVCH

2 VC Gaskets

1 CPS

1 GPR

1 Fuel Pump

Anything else?

And again thanks TARM for replying.
 

DocBar

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Hi Tarm thanks for your reply IDK he said it never did throw or flash the SES. FF is new he changed it on 4/14/14 (Ford Filter) but I checked it anyways it was clean no dirt in the bowl. Bowl filled up with the KOEO. We will be changing the fuel pump (Just to be safe).

So parts wise

(Ford said special order and were trying to see if they will expedited it)

2 UVCH

2 VC Gaskets

1 CPS

1 GPR

1 Fuel Pump

Anything else?

And again thanks TARM for replying.
What are you using for a scan tool? Can you data log anything? Really sounds like either IDM or harness issue to me. There are much, much more experienced guys than me, though.
 
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Powerstroke Man 6.4

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What are you using for a scan tool? Can you data log anything? Really sounds like either IDM or harness issue to me. There are much, much more experienced guys than me, though.

AE. Really hope it's not the IDM. Cylinder buzz ran strong but the passenger was a little weaker the driverside. Passenger UVCH connector was loose also the inside the connector was soaked In oil and the clip was hanging and broken. that probualy explains the weaker "buzz" on the Passengerside. Driverside was fine and connected and no burnt pins also no oil in the connector like the P-side If you read the first post it will explain everything. Thanks for you reply I really appreciate it.
 

TARM

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Unless you are getting a used on take a look at Rock Auto they last had a stupid cheap price for the stock pumps.
 

Stroke_this

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I just threw a p1316 code in mine after a bunch of much needed maintenance. Which included vc gaskets. Thought I got a bad one omhed out good, chased the wiring harness and always good. Popped of the idm to inspect and had water in it. Ordered a replacement from swamps will be here and installed tomorrow.
 

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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I just threw a p1316 code in mine after a bunch of much needed maintenance. Which included vc gaskets. Thought I got a bad one omhed out good, chased the wiring harness and always good. Popped of the idm to inspect and had water in it. Ordered a replacement from swamps will be here and installed tomorrow.

Was it running rough when you tried to drive? Could it move? How was the idle? The truck idles fine only when you try to drive then it will start misfiring and barely moves Thanks for the reply.
 

Stroke_this

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Was it running rough when you tried to drive? Could it move? How was the idle? The truck idles fine only when you try to drive then it will start misfiring and barely moves Thanks for the reply.

I drove it 170 miles ran like a dream then it sat for a couple of days. I started it up to move a trailer and it was missing something terrible. Idle was terrible but after restarting multiple times it eventually the idle smoothed out. I ran it up and down the road a few times and had little to no power barley enough to get the trailer back to the house. I had just replaced the cps and ipr so I threw the old ones back in and no change.
 

TARM

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The CPS is usually it cuts in and out then dies then does not start. That is usually the order of progression but can jump to any of them.

Make sure other than the CPS all parts engine electronic/sensors/wiring are from Ford/Motorcraft or IH/Alliant

CPS I like the Delphi or BWD do not worry about color on those. A easy test is you want the one with the strongest magnet. The "grey" OEM current part from Ford and IH has the weakest and its off center. Those two above mentioned tested out to have the strongest magentic strength and centered of all of them and I have seen then clean up the Perdels contribution test but the prior shows what is going on with each and you can see the change.

Since replacing the UVCH I would do a Buzz and various tests to ensure everything looks good and that corrected those specific issues you observed.

When it looses power is it smoking more heavily? If the fuel and IDM checks out maybe a boot leak as I had a testing port plu on the compressor housing come loose and fall out. It put the trucks power on its heels but was good otherwise. Amazing with a 4294 gtx and 200% and a 1/4" hole dumps serious boost. So a slit or loose boot etc could make a dramatic change. But usually you see more black smoke at least I did and egt tend to go up as well. Anyways something else to check.

If there is anything this owner wanted to get done that has to have the same areas torn into maybe suggest doing it now while you have valve covers off etc..
 

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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The CPS is usually it cuts in and out then dies then does not start. That is usually the order of progression but can jump to any of them.

Make sure other than the CPS all parts engine electronic/sensors/wiring are from Ford/Motorcraft or IH/Alliant

CPS I like the Delphi or BWD do not worry about color on those. A easy test is you want the one with the strongest magnet. The "grey" OEM current part from Ford and IH has the weakest and its off center. Those two above mentioned tested out to have the strongest magentic strength and centered of all of them and I have seen then clean up the Perdels contribution test but the prior shows what is going on with each and you can see the change.

Since replacing the UVCH I would do a Buzz and various tests to ensure everything looks good and that corrected those specific issues you observed.

When it looses power is it smoking more heavily? If the fuel and IDM checks out maybe a boot leak as I had a testing port plu on the compressor housing come loose and fall out. It put the trucks power on its heels but was good otherwise. Amazing with a 4294 gtx and 200% and a 1/4" hole dumps serious boost. So a slit or loose boot etc could make a dramatic change. But usually you see more black smoke at least I did and egt tend to go up as well. Anyways something else to check.

If there is anything this owner wanted to get done that has to have the same areas torn into maybe suggest doing it now while you have valve covers off etc..

Yup all parts are OEM from the local ford parts department. IC boots are perfect no rips/tears no abnormal smoke (That I can see). Thanks TARM I really do appreciate the help.
 

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Hope its just the pump then. They do go out sometimes around 200K all depends alot on the quailty of the fuel they have had to push and how much air has gotten sucked up into them. My guess is people that run their tanks low a good part of the time likely see shorter life.
 

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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Hope its just the pump then. They do go out sometimes around 200K all depends alot on the quailty of the fuel they have had to push and how much air has gotten sucked up into them. My guess is people that run their tanks low a good part of the time likely see shorter life.

Yes I hope all the new parts will solve these problems.
 

TARM

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Where do you source the Delphi and BWD sensors?

Advanced Auto. Order thru the online unless they have one instock at your store. Use the online coupons they have as well if you do a search. You need to look for the actual manf name not just under CPS as I think they miss labeled its name but it comes up if you look up delphi.
 

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