While the motor is out

[gnxtc2]

I'm posting this here for more traffic......

Need to yank the motor to replace the oil pan. I will be rolling 238K. Since the motor is out planning to do the following (let me know yes or no):

- Comp 910s (shimmed to 1.780 w/seal, 1.830 w/o seal)
- Pushrods - Is 10.225 the correct length? Would 7/16 or stick with 3/8?
- Fluidamper
- Change injector o-rings (have 77k on them)
- Change glow plugs
- Change o-rings on fuel plugs on the head
- Replace oil cooler o-rings
- Replace LPOP

Anything else?

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[20007.3L]

List looks good! Hope you post lots of pics!

 

[4.0l sahara]

I wold get a ati dampener over the fluiddamper

 

[V-Ref]

Head studs...didn't seem in your Sig. If there already there maybe a double check on the torque. I've had the VCs of 4 times since putting them in...all of mine all took a a 1/8 to 1/4 turn each time.

Had you considered a custom grind cam with a welded cam gear?

 

[gnxtc2]

Head studs...didn't seem in your Sig. If there already there maybe a double check on the torque. I've had the VCs of 4 times since putting them in...all of mine all took a a 1/8 to 1/4 turn each time.

Had you considered a custom grind cam with a welded cam gear?

No, I do not have studs. I've done alot of reading on studs. Every race motor I put together with new ARP studs, I torqued cycled the studs 5x. According to ARP, the studs need to "stretch" to achieve proper clamping force. Seems like no one does it on these motors. Also are the head fastener holes blind?

When you checked the torque on the studs, did you loosen them first then final torque them?

Also on the stud subject, wasn't planning on running bigger injectors than I have now. But then again.....you never know

I've read that the ATI balancer might need to be honed. The Fluidamper show better harmonic canceling at rpm vs the ATI. I'm not building a race motor or high rpm. The max rpm the motor will see is 3500 and that's pushing it. Mostly use the truck to tow the enclosed trailer and a daily driver.

Not planning on tearing into the motor. I need to get the motor out and back in ASAP as I'm borrowing the gf's Exploder while she's away visiting family over the Thanksgiving break.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Tom S]

Only other one I can think of is those big galley plugs on the head.

 

[littleredstroker]

Pull dipstick and replace the oring, lock tite the nut back on.

Smoked a bit
Turbo lit
That was it

 

[V-Ref]

Billy

No on the loosen. I had several that took another 1/2 turn! After seeing that...its hard not he a believer in hot re-torque's. I'd say headstuds for sure just for peace of mind....

I've never done it...but before the 7.3 built motor decision...I'd contemplated a cam on the stock motor. My research led me to believe spinning the motor upside down on a stand...one could get the lifters to clear the cam lobes to swap out a cam.

 

[97powerstroke]

I would change the front cover and water pump o-rings. Since the oil pan will be off I would weld the piston squirters and put a new seal in for the pick-up tube. Maybe change out the wiring for the injectors depending on what kind of shape its in. A good degreasing and cleaning with a fresh coat of paint wouldn't hurt either.

 

[David N]

Put all new orings on the 6 plugs and 2 HPOP lines on the oil rail in the engine valley.

 

[m j]

Put all new orings on the 6 plugs and 2 HPOP lines on the oil rail in the engine valley.

this, use vitons
every oring on the motor should get done, probably too short notice to find good vitons though

 

[JD3020]

I agree with whats been said. Pull the exhaust manifolds off as well, clean em up, paint em, and install using stainless hardware and IH or fel-pro gaskets. I'd also pop the oil pan off and clean/paint it, replace the front cover gaskets/sealant, and weld up the oil pick-up tube so it doesn't break off. Also double check that all your piston oil coolers are still intact, and just to be safe check the torque on all the bottom end components. And of course inspect all the pistons to make sure all the skirts are intact and no signs of damage/excess wear. I also popped the main caps off to look for any scoring or signs of damage.


Just do as much as you possibly clean, as its waaaaaaayyyyyyyy easier to do engine work on a stand compared to in a truck. May end up pulling my engine again this winter to stud it, and fix the damn oil leak that is either coming from the pan or rear main seal. Never touched the rear main so i've got no clue whats going on. And if i'm gonna tear it apart again i might as well do a cam. LOL

 

[Black 02]

Just do as much as you possibly clean, as its waaaaaaayyyyyyyy easier to do engine work on a stand compared to in a truck. May end up pulling my engine again this winter to stud it, and fix the damn oil leak that is either coming from the pan or rear main seal. Never touched the rear main so i've got no clue whats going on. And if i'm gonna tear it apart again i might as well do a cam. LOL

Make sure it's not coming from the valley and leaking through the drain down to the pan. These trucks very rarely have main or pan leaks. Just my experience. Usually its coming from above.

 

[JD3020]

Make sure it's not coming from the valley and leaking through the drain down to the pan. These trucks very rarely have main or pan leaks. Just my experience. Usually its coming from above.

Nope, its coming from the rear main area. Bought the engine used and tore it apart so i'm hoping its just the pan leaking right at the rear main. Most likely just screwed up the RTV when i put the pan back on.


BTW use only IH or Ford grey RTV, and do the dipstick tube adapter. I just replaced the o-ring on mine, and covered it it in a layer of RTV. Shouldn't ever have a chance of leaking again.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

On your rear main leak: I had a pesky rear main leak but I only had 40k on a new seal. So after thinking about it a while. I pressurized the crankcase with 5psi of air pressure and found out the leak was at the top corners of the rear block plate that holds the rear main seal. R&R'd and resealed the plate and now not even a seep. Would have never found it without the air pressure, I had overfilled the engine with 5 extra gallons of oil and let sit over night, no way it would leak without RPM's. It did show me my dipstick to adaptor joint was leaking, which had a new o ring. Now has right stuff...

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

Oh and on R&R the plate with out dropping pan: Got many opinions, most thought there was no way it would seal with out pulling engine and pan. I say you just have to be surgically clean and dry, rehearse putting on the plate W/O sealant, and take your time.

Now I have to try to seal up the front of the pan to the front cover joint without pulling pan......