Will it be alright?

[Dschack]

Alright, my rig is a 2001 f-250 7.3 w/forged rods and auto tranny @177k miles. I'm looking to add Rosewood 160/80 single shot injectors. I'm wondering if that's safe to run with the auto. Only other mods are a 4" turbo back and AFE stage 2 intake.

I'm planning on an ATS ported housing and a BTS valvebody as well, but that's as far as my plans go. Shooting for the 350hp/650-700tq area, a good running strong truck not a sled puller. Btw it will very rarely tow, maybe twice a year about 4500lbs

 

[bad12jr]

I'd also look at a larger cooler as well. If its the original trans I'd be careful but the vb and cooler will help it love longer.

Sent from my x2 somewhere

 

[dentexpowerstroke]

I'm running 180/100 on stock tranny with a vb and bigger cooler. Just don't be surprised if it blows, you have to pay to play.

On edit: I have 200k too. I don't know if the previous owner had the trans rebuilt or not tho.

 

[Arisley]

I am running a lot more than that with a stock tranny with a HD O'Reilly's TC and a Sonnax valve kit from DI in it. And a aftermarket tranny cooler from Bob at Dieselsite.

 

[OSCS]

I am running a lot more than that with a stock tranny with a HD O'Reilly's TC and a Sonnax valve kit from DI in it. And a aftermarket tranny cooler from Bob at Dieselsite.

DI sonnax kit, vb,TQ converter holding 550hp on a relatively stock trans. You SHOULD be fine

 

[Jake P]

I had a BTS valve body in my stock 140k mile trans and i was not easy on it. Many hooks to the sled, launches at the drag strip, and towing very heavy with more concern on getting there quickly than being easy on it, and it still worked perfectly the day I pulled it out and stuck a full BTS trans in. As far as i know the trans is still working fine in the truck it is now in, which is owned by a construction company. Granted i still had stock injectors but it was custom tuned and i like to use the highest power tune a little more than i probably should. The fluid was changed religiously in that transmission though, which is important.

You *should* be fine, at least for a while. The prior maintenance and type of use your transmission saw previously is a big factor. As said before, if you wanna play you gotta play. Eventually all stock 4R100's that are run hard give up. Your right foot will be the largest determining factor for when that happens. You could put a set of 400/400's in it and the trans would last another 200k miles, if you drove it nicely, or it could die the first time you drive it if you put your foot down.

 

[OBSWIZ]

You have a 2001...diode trans, if you can afford the tow bills and related problems when it goes then go for it if not get a BTS first.

 

[Jake P]

Diode trans? That is something i've never heard of before. Care to give a guy an education?

 

[OBSWIZ]

Here is what the expert posted:

The mechanical diode is a trade name for a type of one way clutch. Ford changed to this one way clutch in all 4R100s for the start of the 2001 model year. At the launch it was discovered that they failed in the gas engine trucks with a certain trick at 4600 RPM. Since the diesels couldn't run that fast the decision was made to only remove them from the gas engines until they could make enough for all transmissions.

There were thousands of gas engine trucks that had their transmissions replaced before they left the assembly plant. Allegedly NO gas engine trucks made it to dealers with the mechanical diode. All diesels had it until March 23, 2001, when the mechanical diode was replaced by the one way clutch it replaced.

The improved part is a sprag type one way clutch. It replaces the mechanical diode. There is no improved diode for a 4R100.

The symptom for the diode failing.........Either a late or no 1-2 shift

__________________
Mark

Former Ford automatic transmission engineer, 1988-2007.

 

[Jake P]

So basically from the launch of the 2001 MY til March 23, 2001 all diesels had that? If they failed at 4600 rpm why are we worried about it? What exactly happened when it did fail completely?

 

[DocBar]

I'd also look at a larger cooler as well. If its the original trans I'd be careful but the vb and cooler will help it love longer.

Sent from my x2 somewhere

I would do a good bit of research before investing in an aftermarket intercooler. You need to check the pressure drop and temperature drop vs. stock. You want to keep consistent pressure with good temp. drop. Many aftermarket ones are the opposite. This is actually one area that Banks is pretty dang good at. They keep the pressure up and drop the temperature considerably.

Considering the fact that the OP is keeping a stock turbo w/an ATS housing, I'd just keep the stock I/C.

Stock I/C's do a pretty dang good job at ~normal boost levels. At elevated boost levels, the plastic ends can blow off. That's the major gripe I've ever heard about with them.

I may go to an aftermarket I/C when I get the compunds completed, and I'm rigging up a test set to measure the pressure and temp drop across the I/C before I do. That's with a completely modified 7.3L that will be pushing some higher RWHP numbers.

To the OP, having been burned by ATS on a transmission, I'd think long and hard about buying anything other than their billet flexplate. You might be better served saving that $$ for a 38R or going to a T4 turbo. Lots and lots of options with a T4.