6.4 Down, Need Help!

wahoos

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I purchased a 08' 6.4 with 110K mile last year. The first thing i did (within the first month) was delete the DPF, Tuned with a Mini Maxx and deleted the EGR (with new intake elbow). I have put 20K miles on it without issue. Recently the truck started up with a little white smoke in the morning but i assumed it was unburned diesel and it was cold out. Only thing is it had not smoked all winter until now. It had been about 6K miles since an oil change so it took care of that along with new fuel filters (all motorcraft parts). The truck quit smoking but started again in under 2 weeks after the oil change. The truck smoked intermittently until i started up a hill (without a load) and as i gave it gas she fell flat and would not accelerate. after a few seconds it just took off and i almost couldn't get it to stop. After i got her under control the white smoke was back and the truck had a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine. I headed back to the shop and checked for codes with the tuner but nothing showed. I reloaded the tune and cranked the truck but it still smoked and ticked.
I checked the engine and for the first time ever it had puked coolant from the degas bottle. Then I proceeded to removed the cab and tear it down. I noticed that the oil pan was about 6 quarts overfull and the oil was thin (smelled like diesel). #1 cylinder rocker arm was missing the plastic clip (laying in the head) and the compression test was as follows:

2=300 1=300
4=375 3=375
6=375 5=350
8=285 7=375

I can machine the heads/valve job, replace the head gaskets, add ARP studs and address the rocker arm on #1 but i am still making oil. I cannot find anyone who can test my HPFP and injectors so I'm looking into replacing all fuel components or buying a low milage salvage motor. I figure by the time i buy all the parts and sink 4-5K in a 130K mile motor i could just replace with a low milage unit from a wreck. Can anyone help?
 

webb06

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Well I would have pulled the valve covers off and took a look at the fuel rails and injectors to see if there was a leak there, but since the cab is already off that would be next to impossible to do now. Since there's got to be a fuel leak somewhere I would guess its the HPFP but that's a complete guess since you can't really pressurize it now to check everything. I would personally rebuild (if needed) the engine you've got. That way you know exactly what you've got and that's also if you plan to keep the truck for awhile.
 

drunk on diesel

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sad to say, but an injector might have you doing a complete overhaul

the unburnt fuel smoke that you hadn't seen all winter was your first clue :(
 

wahoos

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How do my compression numbers look for a 130K mile engine? What is considered healthy or normal compression? Without knowing where the fuel is leaking if i replace the HPFP, Injectors and tubing it gonna be over 3K. I will still need heads cleaned up, gaskets, studs, rockers and all the misc. replacement parts for putting the engine back together and reinstalling the cab.
 

wahoos

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Is there no one that can test a HPFP and injectors off the truck?
 

webb06

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Is there no one that can test a HPFP and injectors off the truck?

I'd call Maryland fuel injection. They just bought some high dollar equipment so they might be able to. Or at least point you in the right direction.
 

AirFishAutomotive

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Your compression is 100 psi difference?

I would rather rebuild and know what you have. By the time you do hd pistons. Bearings etc you will still be under what most salvage yards want for motors. I know in this area an actual salvage yard wants 6-7k and there almost always missing stuff.
 

SEABEE08FX4

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Your compression is all over the place, but once it goes below 300 I say rebuild it or at least re-ring it with new pistons. The ones @ 375-350 aren't bad, but 300 and below are. You can get a decent set of pistons for 1K, then just do new bearings while your in there since it all has to come apart anyway. You should be able to get the short block rebuilt for 2000-2500 depending on parts used and labor included.
 

wahoos

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Where can i buy the seal for the HPFP? I want to replace them myself instead of buying a pump. Is there a pump rebuild kit available?
 

suprdzlduty

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you should check to see if the hpfp is passing any metal before goin to the trouble of replacing the seal. if it is, the pump will need replaced...being overfull on oil due to fuel will cause it to smoke also. not saying that's your only problem, but it can cause it.
 

wahoos

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Update!
Had the heads pressure tested, valve job and resurfaced.
Had the injectors tested by my new friends at MPD and the result was one bad injector.
Reassembled with the new injector, OEM head gaskets, new fuel lines, etc..
Compression test yielded much better numbers.
Was difficult getting started but when it did she ran like new.

After driving for a couple of months i traded up to a 14'. So far i really like some of the changes they have made with the new trucks.
 

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