Axle, front end etc.

Brad.S.19

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Not sure what my front axle is tagged 229 or 228-60 it is hard to read from damagehttp://
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Rear axle does it matter if it is a 10.25 or 10.5 when ordering parts?

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I have front and rear sway bars the air bags broke with few loads of wood in bed like pictured not sure of the weight but they were empty. The lower shock mounts on the rear axle are showing signs of age not in any dyer need of repair just preventive unless there is a easier route to repair. The air bags can I just remove them and leave the brackets? I plan on getting new ones later on most likely firestones.
The front end will need a rebuild how I found out is another story but it needs
P/s pump, drag link, tie rod ends, track bar,shocks, diff pans, possibly a Gear box and ball joints. If I will be doing all said repairs would it be best to just do u-joints and any other wear items?
What is the easiest and least expensive route to take to have quality parts and not all at once if that is possible. I have never done any checks or repairs like this any reccomendations to complete it or just have someone help with it.
Are there any recommended brands to go with and to stay away from I would like to upgrade what is there to be reliable but not a money pit every 6 months brands that have good availability and or ways of repair/rebuild able components.
And the last thing are those one ton springs in the rear?
 

co04cobra

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Dana 50 / Sterling 10.5



:whs: Use moog or Xrf on ball joints. U-joints will up to you when you get them out, but go with spicer or ford ones if you replace.



You should be able to remove the bags and leave the bracket. I can't tell about your overloads that's the other thing to consider since there were bags installed.
 

mustube

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Moog is easy to get and has a lifetime warranty on most stuff. I have tie rods and hubs. Tie rod has been fine. Hub has gotten really rusty and the spindle bearing failed on both even with new spindle vacuum seals. Spicer hubs at auto zone or online is what I would go with for hubs.

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Brad.S.19

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I will need diff pans front and rear I was planning on running stockers for now. I am having a hard time finding any place that stocks them.
For a gear box how are the the redheads?
Track bar pmf or icon adjustable to get it all nice n tight again in the front.
some pieces in the front I may go to a poly with ss hardware or stick with stock style incase grease becomes a hassle. Shocks bilstein 5100 $79 fox 2.0 $112 5160s stock valving $589 then 10% off also.
Rancho leveling kits any good.

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sootie

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redhead is the best box out there, bilstien has a stiffer ride than fox,
 

Brad.S.19

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Looked over the parts today some stuff has been replaced but it is a bandaid IMO. The gear box is the majority of the play the drag link and pitman arm are in moderate-decent condition will it be necessary to replace them at the same time? It has new tires/valve stems and weights they like losing 20-35 psi every couple days going down the hwy is a bear over 65 it feels like I will shake the truck apart I put some dawn water solution it is leaking right at where the stem and rim contact point. I keep the tires at 65psi 245/75r16 mich ltx 2 at tires or something like that.
Does anybody know a good place to get a decent price on a redhead box?
 

bruce

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There's only 1 place to get a redhead and that's from redhead. Worth every penny though
 

Brad.S.19

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Alright then, with the wheel covers I have they are removeable? Because the way the wheel weights were installed I do not want to rip them off I need to find a way for them to drain water.

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TyCorr

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What needs to drain water? Im confused what youre talking about.

You need to get a wire wheel into a grinder and get under there and see whats good and whats rotted out. That rear diff cover looks wasted.
 

Brad.S.19

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What needs to drain water? Im confused what youre talking about.

You need to get a wire wheel into a grinder and get under there and see whats good and whats rotted out. That rear diff cover looks wasted.

The rear cover is wasted the front is iffy.
The wheels have covers and they have been retaining water after the rain. What I am wondering is if they are removeable as of rightnow the way the wheel weights are installed I will rip them off to remove them.

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TyCorr

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The rear cover is wasted the front is iffy.
The wheels have covers and they have been retaining water after the rain. What I am wondering is if they are removeable as of rightnow the way the wheel weights are installed I will rip them off to remove them.

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Drill holes in the covers. Or drive it down the road, it'll sling the water out. Then look for a more permanent fix.
 

Brad.S.19

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Drill holes in the covers. Or drive it down the road, it'll sling the water out. Then look for a more permanent fix.

Ill just drill holes and is there a easy way to do a gear box and p/s pump in a weekend.

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TyCorr

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The pump is easy...use a bulb and suck the fluid out. Or if youre good you can loosen the bolts and dump it out. Dont f9rget to flush the ps cooler. Youll need a ps pump pulley tool and another to put it back.

The steering gear ive not done. You need a pitman arm puller (probably a new pitman arm) and most likely just need to get **** outta the way to do it. But if youre pulling the ps pump that'll be out of your way.

Tip: get a 3/8 allen socket and so you can bleed the system after repair without sitting tuere and jacking off the steering wheel all day. You leave the belt off and put the 3/8 nub in the pulley bore and spin it over a bit. Then add fluid. Repeat until it stays level. Then hook all back up and run the front tirez back n forth checking the fluid to make sure you havent a bunch of air in the system. If you use atf id recommend some mobil 1 synthetic stuff. And theybmake an additive that will quiet that sucker down.
 

psduser1

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The covers need a wire wheel for sure, if they have holes then replace em. Or drop 175 on new covers, or salvage yard some more "better"? covers, then wire wheel them and find a hole.
The gearbox and pump swap is pretty simple, should be a 4hr ish job, maybe a day if you have to round up some tools?
If the frickin wheel covers are messing with the rims, throw them away when you take the tires down to the tire shop to get the valvestems pulled. That's what it'll take to get the rust out from around the stem.
Any decent tire shop will do that, and you get the tires rebalanced at the same time, which should cure the high speed wobble.
 

Brad.S.19

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Thanks I will have to borrow a pitman arm puller and pulley remover again the front I can wire wheel rattle can the rear is toast. When I do a axle service fluids seals anything else I should look for? On the covers I was going to use black silicon as I do for any environment like that is that a ok thing to do. I wish I we had decent salvage yards up here but many disappoint or are chevy filled. Any recommendations on gear oil?
 

ToMang07

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Thanks,
You are from around my area what is a decent alignment shop in the windham area.

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Honestly, only place I go is up by where I live, ~35 miles from where you are. I know a couple places for an easy sticker, lol, but not really any shops I'd trust.
 

Brad.S.19

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Honestly, only place I go is up by where I live, ~35 miles from where you are. I know a couple places for an easy sticker, lol, but not really any shops I'd trust.

To many idiots I swear one guy had the specs off by .80-1.25 on my mothers Subaru, honestly if it is done right the first time and does not screw me it is worth the drive. I only trust one tech besides my brother and I with my vehicles if it is in the Oxford/Poland springs area I will be up there on a monthly basis this summer. For the 10.25 and 10.5 diff cover are they interchangeable?
 

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