ficm Test Help

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
The first cold mornings of the year and my truck cranks then fires and dies. If i do this enough finally it will fire often enough to keep running. This summer my original batteries gave out and i am afraid they may have damaged the ficm. I test key on 46-47 volts warm. running 36-to 45 volts warm. I have not tested cold or while cranking. I also shorted the test lead on the case and killed the engine while testing. The truck started right up and i retested the ficm with the same results.

Would the warm numbers while running be even worse if i let it sit and checked cold? Is this thing more than likely shot. It runs fine once started, starts fine warm but after it sits over night under 15 degrees it takes for ever to start. Since new it has never gave me a problem in the winter. I wonder if the bad batteries did it in this summer?:shrug:
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
So apparently when I touched the case and the truck killed it finished it off. Went to leave work and after 30 seconds the truck starts to chug and barely runs. I did not check the voltage now. I have a circuit board on the way for it. Tomorrow I am going to swap ficms with my 05 work truck to test. What else could have fried when the test lead grounded and the truck died?? It starts but looses power and starts to run very rough after a bit.... Frustrating.
 

Atsah

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,293
Reaction score
2
Location
Maine
Those voltages are not good.. FICM is junk.. Make sure your alternator is over 14V engine running and your batteries are a little above 13 ish.. I would check that just to be sure you don't wreck another FICM.. Swap it out ASAP before it puts undue stress on you injectors..
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
I am over 14 idling volts at the batteries. I ordered replacement internals from Power-Struck. Will I be able to try the complete ficm off my other truck in the meantime. I read somewhere that they were vin matched?
 
Last edited:

Atsah

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,293
Reaction score
2
Location
Maine
Good question. I never tried different ones.. Someone who knows will come in here and answer your question I'm sure..
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
I did a little digging looks like swapping a complete ficm will just throw a soft code. I will do the swap in the morning.
 

Dave

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
1,555
Reaction score
0
Sure can just throws a u306 soft code

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
Swapped this am. Truck runs smoother than it has in awhile. When the parts get here Monday I'll rebuild my ficm and swap them back.
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
Well, looks like it is something on the other side of the ficm box. I installed the new power supply and have 48v key on and cranking. Truck tries to fire but wont start. I put my other ficm back on and it starts and runs fine. I checked the pins for damage-they look fine. Other than that is there anything else to check or just pony up Monday for a complete ficm?
 

Atsah

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
6,293
Reaction score
2
Location
Maine
Well, looks like it is something on the other side of the ficm box. I installed the new power supply and have 48v key on and cranking. Truck tries to fire but wont start. I put my other ficm back on and it starts and runs fine. I checked the pins for damage-they look fine. Other than that is there anything else to check or just pony up Monday for a complete ficm?

Maybe your harness is screwed up..:shrug:
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
I was thinking the same thing. I inspected and gave it the wiggle test. Every time I connected my other ficm it started and ran fine. I figure my original issue was a weak power board then when the test lead shorted it fried something else in it. Now it tests great with the new board as far as the voltage goes. If anyone wants a next to new power board I'll let it go for whateer is fair after you receive it and install.
 

morepower02

New member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
0
Location
MN
I just placed a order With Ficmrepair.com. Ordered a complete unit with the PHP 40 tune on it.
 

GreenMachine

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
1,681
Reaction score
0
Location
RI
So what should FICM ignition voltage read? My livewire is saying 13.50v then goes up to 14. I know that it must be a different parameter then what you guys are discussing. I need to learn how to set my livewires monitoring parameters.
 

Mdub707

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
5,079
Reaction score
0
Location
Mohawk NY
If you touched the case with the lead on the multi-meter, it's fried. I'm shocked you even got it started again after that. I did it once on a test FICM and it read 0.0V right after....
 

6.0 Tech

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2015
Messages
3,478
Reaction score
98
Location
Mesa, AZ

So there are 3 voltages that can be read on the FICM. Not sure what sct calls them, but on scanners it’s FICM lpwr, mpwr, and vpwr. The mpwr is the actual voltage being used for the injectors, the other 2 are module supply voltage and should read battery power or close to it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top