Out of ideas

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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2007 6.0 truck 140k starts and runs great other then a code for the glow plug circuit. Truck has no power and high egt on top end. Does great and has plenty of power down low. Also blows hot side intercooler boots non stop. No codes. New parts listed all done in the last 1000 miles by my dad and myself. Does it just need tuning for the bigger turbo? I was told that it would work with a stock truck. Truck was running the same crappy way before all the work was done. I put a bully dog on it that i had laying around for gauges. But i leave it in now power. I did turn it up to see if more fuel would help but it doesn’t. I have scan tools that do live mode if there’s something i should check.

Stock tuning
Egr is gone( bought this way it has block off plates)
Straight 4” exhaust
Kc stage 2 turbo
Head studs
New heads
Oil cooler
Water pump
Thermostat
Mishimoto radiater
Ford fan clutch
Csf aluminum intercooler
Rudy’s piping kit
Sinister cai
Oem ecm
Ford oil filter and cap
Hpop resealed and new stc fitting
New engine wiring harness from ford
New alternator
New batteries
New ficm (testing good)
Sinister blue spring for fuel
New fuel filters
New ford oil regulator and screen (on hpop)
 

6.0 Tech

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What are map ebp and baro psi readings koeo? Also, does it have a cat in it still? Does it ever get into the throaty wookie sound as you’re hammering on it or does it stay whistley. (Yes these are for sure technical terms 🤣🤣🤣)

Our turbos run pretty good with stock tuning, they run better with actual tunes, as power tunes tend to try and spool the turbo sooner to keep smoke output down. But no tune it should be fine, possibly a little laggy, but a stage 2 is based off an 03 turbo, so it’s not terribly laggy.
 

bismic

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What scan tools do you have/use?
Do you monitor fuel pressure? A number of people have had issues with the Sinister regulator spring.
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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What are map ebp and baro psi readings koeo? Also, does it have a cat in it still? Does it ever get into the throaty wookie sound as you’re hammering on it or does it stay whistley. (Yes these are for sure technical terms 🤣🤣🤣)

Our turbos run pretty good with stock tuning, they run better with actual tunes, as power tunes tend to try and spool the turbo sooner to keep smoke output down. But no tune it should be fine, possibly a little laggy, but a stage 2 is based off an 03 turbo, so it’s not terribly laggy.
It stays whistling. And builds plenty of boost. But the truck won’t get out of its own way. I couldn’t get over 50 with an empty 28’ cattle trailer without seeing 1350+ egt on stock tuning. I will have to look and get back with you on the readings.
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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What scan tools do you have/use?
Do you monitor fuel pressure? A number of people have had issues with the Sinister regulator spring.
I have the icon t7 and forscan. I’m trying to learn the t7 it’s supposed to let me look at stuff while driving. The forscan seems limited on this truck but i am fairly new to using both.
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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It stays whistling. And builds plenty of boost. But the truck won’t get out of its own way. I couldn’t get over 50 with an empty 28’ cattle trailer without seeing 1350+ egt on stock tuning. I will have to look and get back with you on the readings.
It only gets throaty if i floor it. But the egt goes up so quick i cant stay in it.
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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I’m gonna try and look at it this weekend. I hope it’s something that simple. But I’m usually not that lucky
 

bismic

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ForScan is a very good code reader and the first thing is to see if there are any codes (if you haven't done so already). The EBP sensor can somewhat be tested, simply by running with it disconnected.
 
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PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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Truck is doing something new now. It started out blowing fuse 22 i believe under the dash anytime you went over 50% throttle, that progressed until it blow as soon as key was cycled on. I have unplugged everything except for the ficm and the fuse still blows. I put a bigger 40 amp in it and the truck started and ran then blew the fuse and died. The dash goes dead when fuse blows. The only code it had was for a the glow plug control module communication with ecm. But it blew the fuse with it unplugged. If the ficm was bad i would think it wouldn’t have started. Any opinions welcomed. New ignition switch, ficm is only a year old, glow plug module came off a running truck, batteries and wiring is new, starter is new. I swapped all the relays around so it’s not one of them or it would have changed fuses imo.
 

bismic

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Check the fan clutch connector and wiring. Try starting and running with the fan disconnected. Do this just long enough to see of the issue goes away. A shorted switch in the transmission range sensor can also cause this.
 
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PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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Check the fan clutch connector and wiring. Try starting and running with the fan disconnected. Do this just long enough to see of the issue goes away. A shorted switch in the transmission range sensor can also cause this.
Will check it but i replaced it a year ago when we did the heads and everything else. What’s the best way to check the range sensor? Voltmeter on the connector pins?
 

6.0 Tech

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Unbolt the connector on the side of the trans. And see if it blows the fuse. That will indicate if it’s in the trans or not. Doesn’t rule out outside wiring though. Also, I’ve had a lot of fan clutch wiring have issues under the air inlet, as well as where it comes over the fuel filter housing. Although the most common issue is a broken fan shroud or something along those lines causing the fan clutch side of the wiring to get hit by the fan and short
 

PSD-BLACK-CLOUD

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I have unplugged everything on the truck other then the cluster, and starter still blowing fuse 116. It has a dead short to ground on the output side of the fuse. Can’t seem to find any bad wires.
 

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