Post ZF6 swap

jme2152 · Mar 20, 2017

First off I want to apologize in advance, this thread might be a little bit everywhere so I posted it in general to avoid multiple conversations on the same broad topic.

So I got my truck back after 7 months under the knife of a ZF6 swap. No it wasn't the shops doing or fault but they had actually helped me out ALOT when, like a idiot I trusted a shade tree mechanic for it. they drove 6 hours to pick it up and billed me on the extremely low side. what took so long was that they ended up having to piece it all together avoiding new/full price parts when the only thing they had to start was the ZF6 and a beat to S^&T Clutch along with my husk of a truck. so long story short got the truck back last week(100% sound minus said below) and just need some advice/help on wrapping up a couple things.

1) Reverse lights, I am about to order the Switch and connector for the trans. I just need a diagram or input on where the relay is?

2) Sound proofing, what works well to put in the boots(other then getting them 100% flush) to help quiet the noise? also has anybody done anything to the firewall to seal that up some more?

3) the hard one, Cruise control. according to the one sticky with electrical PDFs it doesn't seem to run or deal with the empty harness without the auto. and everything is connected in the steering wheel(replaced the clock spring myself). is there any diagnostics for trouble shooting info for the Cruise control?

well any advice is appreciated. ill try to fill any questions or gaps the best I can but since the swap was mostly completed in MI and I live in Erie Pa for the time being I wasn't there for it all. thanks again guys.

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co04cobra · Mar 20, 2017

Swap to manual PCM to fix cruise. At least that's the easiest way I've found.

Downfall of that is, you will then need to run a wire to bypass that PCM looking for a clutch safety switch.

There are 10 other ways to do it, but that's what I've found to be fast and clean.

jme2152 · Mar 20, 2017

co04cobra said:
Swap to manual PCM to fix cruise. At least that's the easiest way I've found.

Downfall of that is, you will then need to run a wire to bypass that PCM looking for a clutch safety switch.

There are 10 other ways to do it, but that's what I've found to be fast and clean.

It has a manual pcm. Just not sure how to get it to work

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jme2152 · Mar 20, 2017

Also the clutch safety isn't hooked up. Well we tried but it didn't seem to work. It's. It the biggest deal but if it needs to work for the CC to work then it will be

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psduser1 · Mar 21, 2017

co04cobra said:
Swap to manual PCM to fix cruise. At least that's the easiest way I've found.

Downfall of that is, you will then need to run a wire to bypass that PCM looking for a clutch safety switch.

There are 10 other ways to do it, but that's what I've found to be fast and clean.

jme2152 said:
It has a manual pcm. Just not sure how to get it to work

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You'll still need the clutch interlock switch with a manual pcm for the cruise to work. Or as suggested, a bypass wire.

jme2152 · Mar 21, 2017

psduser1 said:
You'll still need the clutch interlock switch with a manual pcm for the cruise to work. Or as suggested, a bypass wire.

I'm fine with a bypass, just not sure where to run it.

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psduser1 · Mar 21, 2017

Should be four wires to the clutch switch, two are for the start circuit-good to have connected-and two are for the cruise circuit. I cant remember the colors or positions off the top of my head, tho. A bit of google should clear that up, or a ford wiring schematic.

jme2152 · Mar 21, 2017

So the CSS is needed for the cruise to work? I'm not against having not function just at the time wasn't the biggest priority to get it running.

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psduser1 · Mar 21, 2017

Two separate circuits.
I don't know that they are tied together.

jme2152 · Mar 21, 2017

Guess I'll try and find the schematic. I had one from the org but it doesn't really show much to go off of

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jme2152 · Mar 21, 2017

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ford_trck · Mar 21, 2017

To bypass the clutch switch you have to run 2 jumper wires. One for the clutch engaged side and one for the clutch disengaged side. If you just jump the wires together it will work. I just used a couple spade connectors and trimmed them down so they would fit in the connector. If I remember right, you just jump the two wires on 1 end and jump the other two also.

jme2152 · Mar 21, 2017

ford_trck said:
To bypass the clutch switch you have to run 2 jumper wires. One for the clutch engaged side and one for the clutch disengaged side. If you just jump the wires together it will work. I just used a couple spade connectors and trimmed them down so they would fit in the connector. If I remember right, you just jump the two wires on 1 end and jump the other two also.

Do you remember what colors they were? Where there located?

Did that fix the CC?

Thanks by the way

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ford_trck · Mar 22, 2017

They changed the color of the wires three or four times. It is a straight 6 wire connector I think and only 4 are used in diesels. I kept breaking my clutch switch after I cut the end off and started using a heim joint to get rid of the slop of the plastic bushing.
Here is a picture of the connector. If you had an automatic then it has another harness or a plug in it, I can't remember. If I remember right I jumped the front two wires together and the back to wires together. If you jump the wrongs ones there is nothing to worry about no magic smoke will be released.

jme2152 · Mar 22, 2017

That's down in the pedal area correct? Okay I'll take a look today and see what I can find. I'll let you guys know asap
Thanks!

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ford_trck · Mar 22, 2017

Yes it is. I think on Auto trucks it was tied up out of the way though.

jme2152 · Mar 22, 2017

So I found this but it was plugged in to something. I'll post a video with some operation

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jme2152 · Mar 22, 2017

It won't let me post the video but it plugged into a piece on the clutch shaft. Seemed to be held by a spring tension or something. But I tried unplugging it and the truck fired up with no problem

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jme2152 · Mar 22, 2017

ford_trck said:
They changed the color of the wires three or four times. It is a straight 6 wire connector I think and only 4 are used in diesels. I kept breaking my clutch switch after I cut the end off and started using a heim joint to get rid of the slop of the plastic bushing.
Here is a picture of the connector. If you had an automatic then it has another harness or a plug in it, I can't remember. If I remember right I jumped the front two wires together and the back to wires together. If you jump the wrongs ones there is nothing to worry about no magic smoke will be released.

Plugged into that