Replacing metal fuel lines with rubber?

[JD3020]

This is on my OBS, but should be same deal as SD's.

My metal fuel lines on the engine appear to be original to the truck, so they aren't in that good of shape. Not leaking or anything yet, but pretty rusty. I do have a really bad leak though, down at the quick-connect fitting where it goes from the metal engine line to the flex line. Its pissing out fuel, and almost looks like the metal line is sitting crooked. May just be an o-ring, but i hate those connectors with a passion.


Would it be reliable/safe to just do away with all that mess, and run a rubber hose from the frame rail lines, all the way up to the valley? Obviously i'd need a high pressure, diesel rated hose, and double clamp it on each end. Just looking for some ideas to fix the current leak, and prevent any future leaks, without getting bent over by Ford for new lines.

 

[Tncoalroller88]

Get u some push lok fittings and hose and just replace it all. That's how a full regulated return is set up they usually use 3/8 push lok hose or hose with AN fittings. Good luck.

 

[JD3020]

I don't need any fittings, both ends i'm connecting to are barbed nipples. I just gotta clamp and go.

But i'll have to do some research as my truck sees a lot of B100 in the summer, so i gotta get something that'll hold up to it.

 

[greenthunder7.3]

they sell hose that can handle the bio fuels but i dunno if i would want it around the heat of my engine all the time but thats just an opinoin i guess.

 

[kadeninabnitt]

I've been running high pressure rubber lines in my valley for about 3 years with zero issues.

 

[JD3020]

Thats what i run in the valley as well, but this is going from the frame to the valley.

Ford is not an option, it'd be at least $80 a line. I can get Parker 801 for $1.94 a foot, Teflon stainless braided hose for $5.05 a foot, or some real heavy duty Eaton hose for $3.79 a foot. I believe the Teflon is the best out of the 3, but also the most expensive, and he said may be a pain to get it on the hard line and clamped good.

Really thinking about getting the parker hose, and a braided cover for it, and see if i can't run it up the front of the block like stock. I'd have a bunch of money wrapped up int the braided teflon and it comes in 5/16" or 13/32" I.D. only, but if i could make it work it'd be the best.

 

[PA Stroker]

my RR from irate is all paker pushlok hose form the tank to the valley. Its routed in the stock location. I've had no problems with it yet and its been on for about a year.

 

[907DAVE]

Teflon hose cannot be clamped. You could find some compression to JIC fittings, then use re-usable hose ends on that Teflon line.

 

[JD3020]

I was talking with the guy at the hydraulic shop, and his thoughts were since the I.D. of the hose is smaller than the line, i could soften the teflon a little and push it on, and add a clamp for good measure. But he wasn't too sure how it'd work out.


But i did some checking, re-tightened some clamps, and i think the steel lines are alright, just have issues with the Ford connectors at the moment. For now i'm just gonna cut out all the stock flex lines and connectors, and add some rubber lines and let it go. Then whenever i do e-fuel i'll just replace it all with braided teflon, and hopefully never have to mess with fuel lines again.

 

[bluedevilslax]

my RR from irate is all paker pushlok hose form the tank to the valley. Its routed in the stock location. I've had no problems with it yet and its been on for about a year.

I agree here, have seen it done with the pushlok hose or hydraulic hose with the proper JIC fittings and never been a problem.

 

[907DAVE]

You can always replace the internal o-rings in the quick connect fittings. Might cost you a couple dollars.

 

[JD3020]

You can always replace the internal o-rings in the quick connect fittings. Might cost you a couple dollars.

I've thought of that as well, but those fittings are on the top of the list of things i hate. Just a PITA to deal with, so if i'm gonna mess with em any i'll just get rid of them.

 

[907DAVE]

I dont blame you!

 

[CSIPSD]

So rather then the nice quick connectors or push lock, your going to go with Barbed fittings and clamps? Yuck.

 

[JD3020]

Correct, for now anyways. When i do my fuel system i plan to run push lock from the tanks to the engine, then braided Teflon up to the valley. But this is just gonna be a fix to get my truck running.

 

[TARM]

I would run the 801 and use PL fittings. You will be soooo much happier if you ever have to work on the system. Teflon can be a PITA. You really need to use the proper fittings with it if you do not want trouble down the road from my limited exper using it.

I have my system from engine to tank is all 801 and it works great. I like to drop the the tank and use compression fittings on those nipples of the tube. This gives you nice clean connections rather than a hose worm clamp. It will have a compression to JIC male then connect to the hose with a PL hose end to female JIC. You have to cut the nipple back just to other side of the flare if you are using the stock tank pickup/returns etc.

 

[C5dad]

Avoid the Teflon if you have not worked with it before. You cannot heat and stretch unless you get the temps in the 450f range (depending on the line)-If you over stretch, you have to cut and start again! Better to use compression fittings (stainless) if you are he'll bent on using!

 

[JohnT24]

Any updates?

opcorn:

 

[JD3020]

Yeah, just cut off the flares and threw some high pressure, diesel rated hose from Napa on. Double clamped each connection, and 0 issues with em.

 

[JohnT24]

Yeah, just cut off the flares and threw some high pressure, diesel rated hose from Napa on. Double clamped each connection, and 0 issues with em.

Thanks! :thumbup: