Stainless steel injector cups

ghohouston

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From what I got from what the guy in the video was saying that the tool is needed to roll it into a serrated section the cup goes into the head.
While the 7.3 head has no serrated section in the head, International chose to use brass for that engine.
Their are thermal dynamic differences between brass and stainless. How much that played into their decision, I do not know. What I do know with regards to something that could dramatically negatively effect thermal dynamics is; on Riff Raff’s ( quite the name) website states that it is thicker in a section and makes it stronger. That’s a real issue. They also push their tool kit stating the traditional tap style removal tool sends brass shavings down into the cylinders. If you drop a dime down into the cup before using a tap type removal tool, that DOES NOT HAPPEN.
I’ve come behind a lot of DIYers that did cups with Riff Raff removal installation tools. The crank down process did not always completely seat the cup as it is hard to tell if it’s completely seated even when using a torque wrench as drag going in will vary with cups and bores. If you use the Rosewood Style driver, you hear and feel the thud of the cup bottoming out
I've only ever used the Rosewood style and definitely agree you can hear and feel the cups bottom out. And 100% on the dime trick.
 
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Yep! The thud is your friend!!!
Riff Raff….., Knows full well how to keep the tap cuttings out of the cylinder or certainly should. It doesn’t even rise to basic mechanical knowledge level 101. 17 year old diesel tech intern knows that! but they chose to write that. ( starting to get they full picture yet? ).

The “ THUD RULE “ applies to installing the injectors. Start the injector retaining plate on the fixed stud first. Then use a rubber covered handle-shorted handled maul to prevent slippage. Put the end of the handle on the end of the injector retaining plate that gets tightened down. Push down on head of short handled maul. Feel and hear that thud that is your friend. Then thread in and torque the bolt. Don’t be beating or even pushing on the solenoid! Don’t use the crankdown method! You have a high likelihood of reaching desired torque measurement before that injector is fully seated in the cup.
 

PSD POWER007

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That is a lot of miles in a relatively short amount of time. Have you always driven that many miles? Did you buy the truck when it was new? How many miles are on it now?
I have 502,000 miles on my truck. Bought it in 2011 with 24,000 on it. The last two years or so, I’ve put a little over 215,000 on it. Been a road warrior since 2020 COVID. That’s when the new motor went in with the RR stainless cups.
 
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Thank you for the reply.
Why did you need an engine replacement? Was it explained to you as to why? How many miles were on it at that point? Was this a “ New To You Engine”? It was not new, as there have only been rebuilds available. Contract rebuilders do not use those cups. Did the rebuilder of that engine state, It’s past history, it’s found condition upon tear down, show related photos of. Does that shop have decades of reputable business? In the shop, are there tons of aftermarket company stickers plastered everywhere? Was it explained to you as to the wisdom for selecting those cups?
I am not being confrontational. I am only asking pertinent questions.
 

PSD POWER007

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It was a completely built long block by a VERY reputable build shop. I asked said shop to not install the cups as I had my own. I did my own installation of the RR cups based on reviews that I had read. I used the RR cup tool which I personally own. And they worked beautifully for me since.
I installed a new motor because my other had low compression on 2 cylinders. It had a ton of miles towing at over 450whp. It earned its keep as is my current motor.
 
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hucorey

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I've used the OTC, RR, and Rosewood cup tools. I like the Rosewood tool the best mainly because I can get them pulled and installed much faster vs the other two. Like Nick said, drop a dime, squirt of grease on the flutes of the tap, or a piece of a shop towel in the bottom of the cup to keep the shavings from going into the cylinder.

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