Do you think the 205/30 pair well with the s363? I was originally thinking s364.5, but the more I think about it the s363 may be the most suitable for my needs. Primarily daily driving and occasional towing. Thinking of getting a travel trailer within next couple years so I’d probably be doing one big trip a year.
if i were to start over, i would buy the 363 version from kc turbo as a drop in and pick some good tunes on stock inj's. i say this based on the e99 turbo mine came with. it performed better then the late 99 turbos except, it ran out of breathe pulling the I80 wyoming hills at 75 mph with the toyhauler in tow. i say this as i had seen 1300 to 1350* for brief moments with the stock turbo and a 80 hp tow tune from jody at dp tuner. brief meaning the last half a mile of the pull up the hill or in heavy winds pulling a shallower grades. had my truck had 4.10 gears rather then 3.73's, i think it would've been spot on especially with a drop in turbo that flowed better. they didn't exist at that time, the 38r and d66 were the popular choices at that time. i bought my truck in early 2012 with 80k on it and just made these changes 5 years ago and now have 142k on it. the stock inj's are quieter and you don't need a tuner to run them. if you are replacing them anyway, then based on my experience.... the sxe 363 is the better choice. i say better choice as i see 5 psi at 1500 rpm where the 366 didn't until 1800 rpm, empty not towing. in stock form, 1 psi at 1200 rpm on data logs with the stock e99 turbo and stock inj's and hpop. on both the sxe 366 and 363, i went with the .91 exh but i believe they have a smaller one. i cannot tell you what would work best for you based on the parameters you listed, all i can state is my experiences based on the details of my truck and loads. i can say that i believe the sxe 363 will make a better daily driver then the sxe 366 and still tow a travel trailer. mine is a manual which seems to behave differently then an auto when it comes to spool time. every shift dumps the drive pressure unlike an auto but, for my application, the benifits of the manual out weigh the auto, imo. the hybrid 205/30s should work well with a healthy stock hpop which is why i went that route initially as that is what i was told they were designed for by two diff inj's builders. after the order shipped i thought to myself, i already spent this much whats an other $600 at this point, and i ordered the adrenaline hpop. i wish there was someone that perfromed live tuning in my area to get the tunes right where i want them for my application.
i know thats not the answer you were wanting but i cannot answer your question with out knowing the details of your truck. once i altered my truck, it has been one challenge after another. you have to understand that i only use this truck for towing. i only put 5 to 7k miles a year on it, otherwise its parked inside a building. this is why it has taken 5 years to sort these issues out and still on going. do not buy injectors from a ( based on my experience ) shaudy company like full force diesel
! bitteroot diesel or rosewood
would be the only places i would buy from, as they actually flow test their inj's, provide you with the data sheet and stand behind them. ffd did not on either fronts and i had 4 out of 8 very very poor inj's. they kept telling me it wasn't their inj's as they test them before they leave but could not/would not provide a data sheet on the actual testing. the tuners kept telling me it was my truck as i couldn't get it to idle as i thought it should and a couple of performance concerns. i finally made a switch box to test the inj's an found 4 very weak ones but out of warranty at that point. each set of tunes will effect the idle and performance differently, in fact each set of tunes from each different tuner do as well. i say that as the switch box was the only way to test the contribution ( at idle) of each inj as they buzz tested fine which is only the electrical side. i say this as i clearly never was able to give the 366 a fair chance with 4 out of 8 "fresh" bad inj's from ffd 😞 not knowing that, i swapped to the sxe363 and it was definately better but still not what i thought it should be, so i built the inj switch box. out of the 3 tuners i bought tunes from, i kept the php and jelibuilt and deleted the 1023 as they weren't useable. for myself, it was next to impossible to get revisions from dusty as well. jelibuilt only gave a 30 day revision policy but it took him 2 weeks for one set of revisions and then he wanted more money for more revisions and i said no. both tuners basically had to write revisions spec'ing out 205/80 inj's rather then 205/30's to smooth the idle better. i am not a diesel tuner so i will not pretend to know what all that entails or how exaclty that effects the idle or run performance. i just know that it helped the idle quite a bit but wasn't right. i say this as when i swapped to the sxe363 i was still running the existing tunes on the ffd inj's. i started calling around to see who actually flow tests their inj's and found those two companies. i went with bitteroot and bought 8 brand new inj's that they modified to 205/30's and i will never buy remanned again. ffd was an $1800 lesson/mistake, for myself! with the brand new inj's and the sxe 363, i towed the toyhauler to mt rushmore for a trip, still using the existing tunes. they clearly were right for the new inj's but seemed to work ok. i was able to tow up there in stockish mode ( no true stock mode with all the mods), something i had not been able to do since i swapped everything. i have new tunes from aa tuning and really like them. i kept the php tunes in the hydra for comparison and i still have the original pre revision php tunes i might re install to try. i have not towed the toyhauler with the new aa tunes yet but will this summer. didn't get the new aa tunes until after the early may trip to mt rushmore SD last year. didn't get to use the toyhauler for a trip to the sand dunes last summer after a nasty hail storm ripped through and i spent the summer cleaning up the mess.
i have had this weird surge at idle since before all the mods. everything i have read has stated the 7.3 has a slight surge at idle so i never worried about it. recently the truck died twice and restarted with out issue which was really weird, has felt a little on the sluggish side for quite some time but with all the changes that is hard to pin point. well in a gasser the tps would be the first thing i would look at for those quirks but not quite the same in this diesel. i finally decided last week that the 23 years tps needed to be replaced just to rule that out and that was definitely an issue! went for a drive and it definitely cured that sluggish feeling and even reduced that idle surge as well as toned down the inj noise. last year with the new inj's, i swapped the idm to the high freq/high voltage from chatanooga diesel tech. i cannot say that it did anything except made the inj's slightly louder. the tps could've had something to do with that. i still have a small exh leak somewhere that developed right before the mt rushmore trip. its annoying as i can smell it inside the cab when the blower fan is on. i will have to pump smoke up the tail pipe to see if i can find it but my gut says it's the right side up pipe. i have the t4 welded kit from irate, so i called to inquire if one can buy just the welded up pipes as they don't list that as a replacement part on their web site. $500 and yes they do sell them separately. i told him why i was inquiring and he asked if i had the first gen as their new design uses a thicker wall tube and braided ss wrapped quality flex joints, of their design rather then the vibrant flex joints and thinner wall tube that must have been farmed out. clearly they had issues with their previous design to make the change and it will cost me another $500 if their pipes have cracked or the flex joints are leaking. so much for one and done. the turbo has to come out to swap them out as the turbo pedastal is one with the pipes. i wrapped them in header wrapped along with the thermal coating before i installed them so no soot trail to be seen. i hope a smoke test reveals the source and if it is an up pipe then that a drive pressure loss that directly effects the turbo and egt's
sooooooo, this is why i say " if i had to do it over again, a drop in turbo in kc turbo, stock inj's and a good set of canned tunes" ........ clearly i am not the person to truly answer that question 😉
i wouldn't want to give bad advice
for a glimpse of the wind drag i speak of......34' fiver toyhauler and the 2k lb toy inside it
current toyhauler and i haul the same toy