Best way to get at up-pipe donuts?

So, I have to change these in a couple days and am wondering what the fastest approach is? Clean the top of the motor off and work from up top or drop the tranny and work from the underside? Or just wedge my big fat fingers in there and get 'er done?

Advice? I'd like this to be as painless as possible... I've been spraying PB Blaster in there all week...

If that is all you are doing, some from the top, some from the bottom. Put a wrap or two of black tape around a universal to stiffen it up some. Use wobble sockets. When you get mad (you will), take a break and walk away.

I'll have the d-side valve cover off as well. So intake and probably intercooler tubes will be gone. I guess I'll just chip away at it.

Take the downpipe out...

KPSquared said:

I'll have the d-side valve cover off as well. So intake and probably intercooler tubes will be gone. I guess I'll just chip away at it.

Click to expand...

take turbo and pedistal out. . and get at the top bolts with a wrench. easiest way to do it trust me-

So, lose the downpipe, turbo, and pedestal. I was kinda thinking it would be way easier with the turbo out of the way. I've got some new turbo mount o-rings sitting here, so maybe its a good time for that as well.

After the last time I worked on this truck. I think I may put on a harness and suspend myself over the engine bay with the chain hoist... I had bruises on my stomach from lying on the motor. Its a long ways back there!

You need a top side creeper.
I have done them with the trans out and again with just the turbo out. If I had the ambition I would have pulled both the trans and turbo off. PITA. Get felpro's or beans brass donuts. Better yet get bellows and be done with it.

I cant imagine pulling the trans to do them, what a pain in the arse...

Pull the turbo, pedistal, down pipe (if you have to) and IC tubes.

Plenty of room to work.

I pulled the trans out when I did mine, about an hour out and a big hour back in, made the job so much easier

I was able to replace the donuts on the driver's side with just a long extension and wobbles and my 18V 3/8" impact driver spinning the hardware loose. The passenger side required removal of the down pipe to access the bolts. Didn't have to pull the trans or remove the turbo/pedestal. Total time 2.5 hours including a 30 minute break in there for breakfast. I think the impact driver was the ticket since I'd be all blooded up with a standard ratchet.

I would never pull the trans, if anything move the downpipe...i always endup with some bloody knuckles but have no patience:thumbsup:

I won't necessarily pull the tranny to do it, but if I have to pull the tranny for any reason, I will change them while I am there.

Best way is have someone else do it for you.

H2E makes it a lot easier.

Well, that sucked. That may have been the most unhappy experience I've ever had under the hood. I have large forearms and big hands... that's not a place for a guy like me.

When I pulled the up-pipes, I noticed that the new gaskets were bigger that the pipe. I'd seen something about expanding them so I clamped a piece of tube in the vice, slid the up-pipe over and hammered the ends until they fit nice and snug in the collector. Hopefully help with future leaks.

Spraying the PB Blaster all week must have helped because I got all the bolts loose with no issues at all.

Here's the method I ended up using... (for anyone's reference who cares)

Pulled the intercooler pipes, spider, and down pipe. Used a ratchet wrench with a flex head to get at the back bolts. Used a stubby wrench to get at the bottom up-pipe bolts.

Once I got the up-pipes back into shape, I bolted them to the manifolds but left everything really loose, like not even finger tight.

Then I bolted the turbo up with the collector on the back. I bolted the flanges with the new donuts inside on the collector before I bolted the turbo back in and left those bolts really loose as well. Then I just wiggled stuff until both the up-pipes were in the flanges.

Then I went underneath and tightened up the up-pipe to manifold bolts with a stubby wrench. I had to use a 1/4 drive deep socket on the top bolt on the drivers side.

I tightened up the easy to access bolts with the flex end ratchet wrench and then got the ones hiding in the back from underneath the truck. I used a universal joint with a wrap of black tape like Arisley suggested and had that on a wobble extension. Then stuck a bunch more extentions together until I could reach those bolts from the bottom of the motor.

Made a huge difference. I didn't realize how much of a leak I had but now my truck is quieter and hopefully my mileage picks up a bit. I just used the Ford donuts, but if they go again (and I'm sure they will) a set up bellowed pipes are probably gonna have to happen.

Ain't you glad there isn't a quarter fine per cuss word.

I am looking forward to doing mine this weekend. Course an H2E makes it a little easier.

I've never sworn at a job so much in my life. Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll change the turbo just to make it easier...

Problem solved...



But yes, its a bear... Did it on the Ex a few weeks ago.

Well now, that would have made getting at those bolts WAY easier! Why didn't I think of that?

I did both sides of mine with about 3feet of extensions and a wobble socket wrapped with electrical tape. Did not have to remove anything but the turbo. It took about 2.5 hours