Rough idle after srp1

After the srp1 my truck idles like crap when warm, it starts just fine and when its cold it runs perfect. But as soon as its warm it starts to shake, i just put a new ipr in, and changed the oil with no help. Before the new pump truck ran fine, i dont know what it could be, oh and i also got a reburn for the pump, any suggestions i have seen a couple threads like mine but no one had a remedy. I also put it on ae and there is no codes at all icp looks fine as well as duty cycle, so im stumped on this one.

AzPsd55 said:

Before the new pump truck ran fine, i dont know what it could be, oh and i also got a reburn for the pump, any suggestions i have seen a couple threads like mine but no one had a remedy. I also put it on ae and there is no codes at all icp looks fine as well as duty cycle, so im stumped on this one.

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The only change you made was installing a SRP1 when the idle issues began?

Have you unplugged the ICP sensor while the issue is happening to see what effect it has?

Not sure what comes with new SPR1 but did you reuse the oem HPOP gasket or use a new one?

Have you actually data logged the ICP and DC RPM while the issue is happening and then when its cold and good.

Do you have an extra feed line going to the HPOP Res?

What type of oil do you use?

mine did the same thing after my pump install.... after i got it live tuned it was all fine and dandy...

I had the same issues after an Adrenaline install. Had the tunes adjusted and it cleared it a little but not all the way. Im assuming it could be tuning related. Hopefully soon I will have it live tuned.

how did the wire harness look going to the ipr.i had a similiar issue on a customers truck.it would run fine cold,once it warmed up it would go to crap.everything looked good on the scanner.replaced the pigtail problem solved.

Did you purge the air out of the oil rails?

Does the SRP come with new IPR o-rings? Folks had several problems with the IPR o-rings on another popular HPOP. Now they provide the o-rings with the pump.

V-Ref said:

The only change you made was installing a SRP1 when the idle issues began?

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Yes issues begain right after the pump was installed

TARM said:

Have you unplugged the ICP sensor while the issue is happening to see what effect it has?

Not sure what comes with new SPR1 but did you reuse the oem HPOP gasket or use a new one?

Have you actually data logged the ICP and DC RPM while the issue is happening and then when its cold and good.

Do you have an extra feed line going to the HPOP Res?

What type of oil do you use?

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I have not unplugged the ICP yet, but the pump came with new IPR o rings and gasket. ICP at idle is 550-600 DC 11-13% cold, when warm ICP-450 DC-10-9% And i dont have feed line going to HPOP res, can anyone show me a pic of this. How do you hook it up. And i run rotella 15-40

turbodiesel_02 said:

how did the wire harness look going to the ipr.i had a similiar issue on a customers truck.it would run fine cold,once it warmed up it would go to crap.everything looked good on the scanner.replaced the pigtail problem solved.

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Everything looks to be ok but like you said that could be it, i will check the plug out, its wierd its never done this before, it started right when i put the pump in

SouthFlstrokin' said:

Did you purge the air out of the oil rails?

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Is there any special way to purge the air out, I would fill the res try to start then redo what i just did until it started

AzPsd55 said:

Is there any special way to purge the air out, I would fill the res try to start then redo what i just did until it started

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Remove the icp sensor. Oil should overflow out of the hole. If not add oil in the oil rail. Repeat on the other side..

SouthFlstrokin' said:

Remove the icp sensor. Oil should overflow out of the hole. If not add oil in the oil rail. Repeat on the other side..

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that makes sense i didnt think of doing it that way

Yep , still might be your tuning . But, givevthis a shot.

Or you could just drive the truck 20-30 miles......should be all it needs to purge the air.

907DAVE said:

Or you could just drive the truck 20-30 miles......should be all it needs to purge the air.

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Its been on the truck for about 1.5k miles already, i was just asking if there was another way to purge the air out

AzPsd55 said:

Its been on the truck for about 1.5k miles already, i was just asking if there was another way to purge the air out

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IMHO-You're idle issues aren't related to air in your HPOP oil system at 1500 post HPOP install miles. After 100 miles you should start looking elsewhere IMHO. It just looked like you might've not had driven it enough after the swap is what 907Dave was getting at.

I'm sympathetic to your warm idle issues, because I just went through this myself.

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1560608&postcount=120

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100951&page=20

To give you hope/motivation...it will feel awesome when you get this resolved. It's hard to explain how satisfied I am with how my truck idles/runs now....in summary, it rocks. :clapping: But back to your rig...

If I may request...post up some idle quality video of both the cold and warm idle. If you have a high idle tune/AICM, include how it idles when at a higher rpm, both warm and cold.

Since you've got AE, if you capture the screenshot off your laptop, with ICP/DC/PW, under the four scenarios of cold/low, cold/high, warm/low, warm/high of engine temps/idle rpm on your videos.....that should be all the info your tuner would need to fix a tuning issue.

Throw up your Rotational Velocity/Cylinder Contribution/Inj Buzz Test results as well.

There's a lot in the tuning on these trucks....you start putting high performance parts on our trucks...generic/canned tunes are just that. Each truck has it's own quirks. You could have a 100% mechanically perfect truck, that just needs a tuning tweak. AE will help determine if that's the case or if you have a HPOP oil system related issue. Look forward to your posts.

The way I purged air and filled HPOP oil system:

Install new HPOP and connect hoses.

Pull one oil rail plug from each head. The front one is ideal if not used and easy to get to. Fill with oil until full. Reinstall plug snug.

Take plug or EOT sensor from top of HPOP Res and fill with oil. Reinstall hand tight

Crank engine over a few times. Stop

Slowly open rail plug and listen for air release. It none and oil flows or is at top close tight.

Open reservoir plug and refill to the top.

Crank a few times check oil res again. It should not be low or may take one more time.

Crank till start and run.

It maybe a bit more lengthy than some will do but IMO it ensures you have gotten as much air out as possible and everything is as full of oil as possible. Should start up without to much cranking if only oil has been messed with.





Adding a secondary oil feed hose to the HPOP Reservoir:

Purchase some suitable -4an Parker push loc (I think even 801 we use for fuel is rated to 300 degrees IIRC.)

You need enough to basically go from the oil filter area to the HPOP Res.

You will unscrew one of the plugs by the oil filter on the cooler or block flange. You have one to the left of the filter and then one way up on the engine flange where it meets the bell housing. IIRC both are 1/8" NPT.

1/8 npt > -4an male fitting -4an female hose ends.

Heres some pics for ref:




Only the top right port. Bottom left is coolant as is labeled on above photo.



The left of filter port/hose connection

Tarm, do you have any pics of the oil feed on top of the motor, or how does this all hookup, i can see one hose running oil into the top of HPOP reservoir, but where does the return come from on top?