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  #11  
Old 01-09-2020, 09:58 PM
Garbage_Mechanic Garbage_Mechanic is offline
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Also agree caster is important and often overlooked doing the RSK. I think the RSK takes 2 or 3 degrees caster out.
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Hers since 7/03: 96 F250 CCSB 7.3 PSD 4x4 5spd 3.55 LS D60 AMP Powersteps Currently ungoing 22 yr Rehab Incl Swamps Long Block, S364.5, IC, RSK etc.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2020, 10:14 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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Originally Posted by Garbage_Mechanic View Post
I strongly agree with the washer set up to cut down tie rod roll. One must be careful not to make it too rigid since the angle between the tie rod and the knuckle changes from lock to lock. It has to be a compromise between stopping the roll and being so tight it pops the tie rod off with catastrophic results. My first attempt using a piece of poly from a random left over Energy bushing ended up with the poly washer pooching out. Results were good for a few days. So then I machined a pair of cup washers to nearly enclose the poly in steel. This has been working great on 2 trucks for a few years.
Oooohhww NICE G Mechanic! Cups sounds like an excellent idea in UHMW! Will speak with a buddy of mine who has a lathe. I may have lucked out somewhat as the UHMW and steel washer was same thickness as the stock rubber washer... so will see how it wears. Cup would be much better at keeping grease in and water and keerap out though Im thinking, great idea!
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37 Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5 blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4 exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2020, 04:18 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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I'm honestly thinking about buying a couple of the ruff stuff "cures" and seeing what I can make work. Cause I don't have any lathe or extra anything laying around to try.
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
  #14  
Old 01-10-2020, 04:35 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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I'm honestly thinking about buying a couple of the ruff stuff "cures" and seeing what I can make work. Cause I don't have any lathe or extra anything laying around to try.
Good one Chaselee, Id definitely give that a whirl, didnt even know there was such a thing. Thats what Id be wanting to make and might even order some too. Thanks for sharing.
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37 Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5 blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4 exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2020, 07:07 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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I called them and they told me that they would not work with the for draglink due to the taper being too long, but I think I'm going to buy a couple to play with.
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
  #16  
Old 01-10-2020, 08:35 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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I’m thinking the notion is to limit rotation (not eliminate as you need a little play cycling from lock to lock) of the tie rod ends where they attach to the steering knuckle. Not sure you would need any on the drag link ends. Do you have a Borgeson mid steering shaft installed?
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37 Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5 blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4 exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2020, 09:31 AM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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No sir. I've done anything to the steering shaft
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2020, 08:22 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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No sir. I've done anything to the steering shaft
Ok find the slip joint on the mid steering shaft, should be under/near the brake booster, might have a plastic cover on it. Keys out of the ignition switch twists the shafts in opposing directions (at the slip joint) and you will find significant play. Borgeson eliminates play at slip and rag joint, (just up from the box), worth the cost for sure. If youre not happy with Borgeson swap lemme know and Ill buy it from you.
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37 Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5 blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4 exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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  #19  
Old 01-13-2020, 06:45 PM
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Kowboy Kowboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garbage_Mechanic View Post
I strongly agree with the washer set up to cut down tie rod roll. One must be careful not to make it too rigid since the angle between the tie rod and the knuckle changes from lock to lock. It has to be a compromise between stopping the roll and being so tight it pops the tie rod off with catastrophic results. My first attempt using a piece of poly from a random left over Energy bushing ended up with the poly washer pooching out. Results were good for a few days. So then I machined a pair of cup washers to nearly enclose the poly in steel. This has been working great on 2 trucks for a few years.
Garbage Mechanic
I also have machined a piece of poly from a unused bushing. I would like to know how much of the bushing did you cover, and how tight did you make the cup over the bushing. The bushing did help. My front end components only have about 15,000 on them.
Thank You
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2020, 09:22 PM
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Swaan Swaan is offline
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Not enough caster
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E97 f250 ECLB. SOLD!
Dana 60 front with rsk kit. 5" blocks in rear. 4:10 on 35s. Blackwater reman 7.3 with arp studs , comp springs. 175/80 pis inj, adrenalin hpop,irate fuel system with fuel lab pump. Borg warner 364.5 fmw with 1.00 a/r housing. EC450 horton electric fan clutch. ZF5 shaker.
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