ARP vs Extreme Studs

Extreme studs-
"Our studs are made from a fine grain, hi-strength - 240k tensile tool steel specifically designed for heavy duty, hi-shock applications (DIESELS). These would be comparable to any super hi-performance bolt or stud on the market today, many of which are selling for nearly twice as much. All of our studs, washers, and 12 point nuts are made in house! This is how we are able to build the highest quality, highest strength studs at a reasonable cost.
- Fine thread, 12 point, hardened flange nuts.
- Custom hardened flat washers
- Black oxide - for corrosion resistance
- Studs are hex'd on the end for easy installation"

So are these a better option for even the mid 500hp guys? I understand ARP's can and will hold up to that level of power but are these a better option for $575?

Any current users out there that can vouch for them?

There are guys running way more hp than that and are doing just fine with arp , but it's up to you.

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Aren't ARP's cheaper than that?


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Yes ARP's are around $420-450

Here are a few pics of the extreme studs that I took.

At first with a quick glance they looked exactly like arp's... but the more I looked at it the more I realized they are different. You could in fact verify if you have extreme studs currently in the truck just by looking at the top.


Here is the overall view of the H13 extreme studs



Here you can see Extreme studs left and ARPs on the right. They look kinda similar


Here you can see Extreme studs left and ARPs on the right. You can actually see that the h13 extreme studs are slightly thicker just past the threads


Here is the measurement of the extreme studs 14.28mm


Here is the mesurement of the arp studs 13.37 (that makes the h13 about 1mm thicker)


Extreme stud on the left with a socket end, ARP on the right with allen





So overall I liked the extreme stud option. I am not sure if thicker means better because the threads are still the same. Also even though the washer/nut seem to look the same they are in fact different sizes (I found that out the hard way late at night and ended up not having the right socket). To me the looks mean basically nothing... it will all come down to how they perform

I really like the idea of trying the extreme studs....I just dont want to be the Guinea pig! There will be no real way to know tho unless someone with big numbers tests them.

Im more interested in the fact that they may make a less desirable deck prep go unnoticed since they stretch less.

I cannot hardly tell from the pictures but on the extreme stud does it have a sharper edge or (drop off) where the threads are started?

Or I guess where the threads stop going up the stud.

The part that does bottom out in the block tapers down just a little bit. The pic makes it look like the threads just end early but it is actually tapering down a little bit.

The threads on the h13 are not nearly as clean as the arp, at least the pics you posted. This makes a huge difference in torque, stretch and longevity in extreme circumstances. In a situation where a torque spec is set then a certain degree added, I have seen these type of poor threads fail. It would be interesting to see them tested under a high boost/hp condition.

Lethalthreat7.3 said:

The threads on the h13 are not nearly as clean as the arp, at least the pics you posted. This makes a huge difference in torque, stretch and longevity in extreme circumstances. In a situation where a torque spec is set then a certain degree added, I have seen these type of poor threads fail. It would be interesting to see them tested under a high boost/hp condition.

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I agree the picture looks that way... but it is just that picture. There are imperfections in the ARPs also. It was just the way the pic was taken. If i rolled the thread it would change what you see.


I agree that the real test will be with longevity and extreme circumstances

KCTurbos said:

The part that does bottom out in the block tapers down just a little bit. The pic makes it look like the threads just end early but it is actually tapering down a little bit.

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Yea it does look like it just ends. Reason I asked was I am sure you know any sharp edge or anything like that is a stress point in a stud, connecting rod etc.... I was just curious.

Until I see proof of an arp stretching this is a bunch of bs so somebody can sell some studs.

The part where the h13 being thicker doesn't make it stronger. Unless there's threads all the way up to the thicker part there is still going to be a thinner part of the stud that isn't threaded into the block and the nut doesn't thread all the way down the threads anyway. That's where it's going to stretch. I guarantee if these arps are stretching it's that small portion of threads that arent threaded into the block or the nut.

Doesn't matter who has the strongest link, it matters who has the least weak weak link.

swinky said:

Until I see proof of an arp stretching this is a bunch of bs so somebody can sell some studs.

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Happens all the time. Many high hp 6.0's blow coolant with studs . It's just a fact they live with. Jesse warren has a set going on his that currently blows coolant on fresh heads and gaskets with brand new arp's, and guaranteed he makes a good bit more power than you. And maybe you aren't up to date on how studs work, you seem to be pretty new , but h-11/13 has always been known to be a better material for clamping.

I put fresh head gaskets on the ranger before every season and they always last till about September And we start pushing coolant. (Standard arps) last race in October it was bubbling up at idle haha.

I got the custom age studs for this year didn't know about these at the time or I would have tried it.

bigrpowr said:

Happens all the time. Many high hp 6.0's blow coolant with studs . It's just a fact they live with. Jesse warren has a set going on his that currently blows coolant on fresh heads and gaskets with brand new arp's, and guaranteed he makes a good bit more power than you. And maybe you aren't up to date on how studs work, you seem to be pretty new , but h-11/13 has always been known to be a better material for clamping.

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I'm new compared to most of you guys. I just don't understand how a stud being thicker in one area would make it less likely to stretch when other areas are the same thickness.

Not trying to come off ass a know it all (like I just did lol) just looking to learn. Dorian at pse did all my studs and headwork so I know it was done right. Hopefully the arps will hold up to an s366 and 190/75s for a long time.

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Thicker has NOTHING to do with it at all. It's the material makeup. I think for the 6.0 guy these aren't as critical as they are on a 6.4. But like I said before , cheap insurance to have a better product, and they're made in America

bigrpowr said:

Thicker has NOTHING to do with it at all. It's the material makeup. I think for the 6.0 guy these aren't as critical as they are on a 6.4. But like I said before , cheap insurance to have a better product, and they're made in America

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Where are arps made?

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In America.