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Another possibility is that your windshield is leaking and water got onto the pedal assembly and rusted it. It happened to me. I took the pedal assembly out and cleaned and greased it. Problem solved. Not saying that is your issue but it is possible.

I am looking for the intermediate shaft from the trans to carrier bearing for a crew cab long bed 4wd with zf5 and bw4407 t-case.

Take a small pick and gently pull the tab back over where it belongs.

They are the same.

Sounds like a bad master cylinder but check the pedal assembly first to make sure the rod the pedal swings on isn't rusted. I just had that issue. Disconnect the rod from the master and move the pedal back and forth to check for binding. While your under the dash look where the rod comes through...

How about 500 and I will come pick everything up? You still have everything but the shifter rod?

Pull the valve covers and watch the spouts to see which injectors may have leaks.

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Readily available.

Starter. Replace it with the two bolt version from an 02 superduty. It's like a high torque upgrade for the obs trucks. Cranks much faster.

POR-15

There is a check ball in that "roll over" vent. You should have heard it rattle if you shook it. Replace it if you couldn't put air through it in either direction.

Codes, ICP, IPR, buzz test, cylinder contribution.

You will need two 4 pin relays for your install as the outputs on the remote entry is not rated for the amp draw that is required for the lock actuators.

Definitely a bad cell or more in that battery.

There is probably a member on here who would help you out with their computer. If I were you I would make a thread about needing someone with a computer to give you a hand. I would do it but it would be 14 hours driving round trip for me.

If your electrical system is sub-par then you can have all kinds of electrical gremlins going on.

Bad connections to terminals on batteries, weak batteries, corroded cables, etc. Could be several things. Disconnect the batteries and load test them to start off.

Get it on a computer and record the data to see what exactly is happening when this occurs.

Your slow crank/hard start issue sounds like your starter is going south.

That is almost certainly going to be caused by the degrading of the rubber pieces that help secure and seal the metal lines to the fittings in the heads. There is no need to replace the metal "Y" assembly(not that they are available anyway). You only need the rubber sleeves. This is what is...