Bustedknuckles
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 1,503
- Reaction score
- 0
I don't think its pushing the fingers far enough. Can you push farther with a pry bar or something to double check that.
07 expedition gets 4bta'd
- Thread starter gwunter
- Start date
gwunter
Active member
Well I'm nearing my wits end. Just spent 6hrs pulling the trans and reinstalling. I know it seems like a long time but I gotta take the motor loose to get to the top 2 bolts on the trans. Anyway, as I expected the risk was in backwards. I changed and reassembled it. But as an end result it functions exactly as it did before. No difference what's so ever. The pedal still feels soft.
My theory is this. The master cylinder is for a 2007 f150. The slave cylinder is for a 80's f150. The master cylinder displaces X amount of fluid, but the slave requires 1.25X to function its entire range. Any thoughts on this theory?? I'm really getting bummed!!!
Flywheel is well within spec as well.
My theory is this. The master cylinder is for a 2007 f150. The slave cylinder is for a 80's f150. The master cylinder displaces X amount of fluid, but the slave requires 1.25X to function its entire range. Any thoughts on this theory?? I'm really getting bummed!!!
Flywheel is well within spec as well.
Last edited:
Inline6359
Member
Can you get the travel out of the lever by hand that you need to disengage the clutch?
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
That is most likely your problem. You need the correct ratio to get the travel you want. I would try to measure the plunger travel on pedal and see how that compares to the slave/throwout range. Then you can scale your slave accordingly. Just hang in there and I'm sure you will get it figured out.
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
Shannon,
Did you post a pic of slave cylinder mounted somewhere in this thread?
Did you post a pic of slave cylinder mounted somewhere in this thread?
gwunter
Active member
No pic of the slave cylinder mounted, didn't see a need for that.
I bought a master cylinder from an 80s f150 and it was obviously bigger.
[/URL]
Unfortunately I had to make an adapter to use this bigger MC. This is what I quickly came up with to adapt it.
[/URL]
As I bench bled the MC it was obvious it also displaced a lot more fluid. Once installed the pedal was much stiffer. The new MC was a success!!
Went for a test drive and it went well. Trans shifted good and I didn't think it vibrated bad at all once above idle. All I have connected now is a downpipe so it's a bit noisy. I also turned in the full power screw a bit which unfortunately increased smoke but really brought it to life.
Now we have some other issues come up, which was expected. I have no speedo or tach. I do have water temp, oil pressure, voltage, and fuel readings. All the lights seem to work on the dash. Turn signals, brake lights, wipers, radio, that type of stuff works good. Anybody have any ideas?? Thanks.
I bought a master cylinder from an 80s f150 and it was obviously bigger.
Unfortunately I had to make an adapter to use this bigger MC. This is what I quickly came up with to adapt it.
As I bench bled the MC it was obvious it also displaced a lot more fluid. Once installed the pedal was much stiffer. The new MC was a success!!
Went for a test drive and it went well. Trans shifted good and I didn't think it vibrated bad at all once above idle. All I have connected now is a downpipe so it's a bit noisy. I also turned in the full power screw a bit which unfortunately increased smoke but really brought it to life.
Now we have some other issues come up, which was expected. I have no speedo or tach. I do have water temp, oil pressure, voltage, and fuel readings. All the lights seem to work on the dash. Turn signals, brake lights, wipers, radio, that type of stuff works good. Anybody have any ideas?? Thanks.
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
Awesome man! It makes sense that it would be harder to push once you manipulated the ratios. Good luck on the rest.
gwunter
Active member
Well I've logged about 40 mile s on it now. I still am happy with the results. But alas I still don't have tach or speedo. This is getting frustrating. I've called 2 dealerships and I'm getting different answers on where the VSS is. One says rear differential and one says transmission! That's frustrating right there. I have a Haynes repair manual for supposedly 97-09 expeditions but it doesn't have much specific to the 3rd gens. It doesn't even have a good wiring diagram. Anyone know of a good source for a better manual for it??
I've discussed it with bill at php and he didn't have any good input to resolve the tach or speedo. I've also read things about when converting some gasser ford's in order to get the tach working you got to wire in the cam sensor wires with the crank sensor wires. Unfortunately I removed wiring for them already. I can't find a good pinout of the pcm to replace these wires I am though getting a good signal produced through the orginal crank sensor and the machined harmonic balancer. I was actually getting about 10AC volts through it but I gapped the sensor out to obtain the desired .5-1AC volts, so I think the sensor is good. I've tried feeling around for a VSS on the rear differential but can't locate anything on it. I'm also thinking maybe the problems are tied together. All other gauges and accessories work on it it's just the 2 important ones I have failed on.....so far. Here's a few more pics.
And here's a few of the throttle setup which I guess you could say is drive by wire. It works well except apparently in the original programming whenever you let off the throttle completely it will initially drop below idle and then reset to the idle position. So on the original 5.4 it would in theory completely cut off the air flow for a split second and then return to idle. This is the first I've ever noticed this on a vehicle. I hope to have this programmed out someday. Anyway here's the pics.
anyone have any input on these problem areas?? Thanks.
I've discussed it with bill at php and he didn't have any good input to resolve the tach or speedo. I've also read things about when converting some gasser ford's in order to get the tach working you got to wire in the cam sensor wires with the crank sensor wires. Unfortunately I removed wiring for them already. I can't find a good pinout of the pcm to replace these wires
I am though getting a good signal produced through the orginal crank sensor and the machined harmonic balancer. I was actually getting about 10AC volts through it but I gapped the sensor out to obtain the desired .5-1AC volts, so I think the sensor is good. I've tried feeling around for a VSS on the rear differential but can't locate anything on it. I'm also thinking maybe the problems are tied together. All other gauges and accessories work on it it's just the 2 important ones I have failed on.....so far. Here's a few more pics.And here's a few of the throttle setup which I guess you could say is drive by wire. It works well except apparently in the original programming whenever you let off the throttle completely it will initially drop below idle and then reset to the idle position. So on the original 5.4 it would in theory completely cut off the air flow for a split second and then return to idle. This is the first I've ever noticed this on a vehicle. I hope to have this programmed out someday. Anyway here's the pics.
anyone have any input on these problem areas?? Thanks.
Luke@MillerPerformance
Member
Speed sensor should be in top of the rear diff for sure. Does it have an ABS light on?
PM me your email and I'll send over the service manual info on no tach.
PM me your email and I'll send over the service manual info on no tach.
I just get a subscription to www.diyalldata.com. It's 25 dollars for a year and give you all the wiring diagram for your vehicle. Very handy when doing these swamps.
On my X I used the factory dodge balancer machine 4 grooves in it and wires the crank sensor directly to the dash. It works good up to about 3k then it starts getting flakey. I don't spend much time up in the 3k range and if I do I'm not watching the tach.
On my X I used the factory dodge balancer machine 4 grooves in it and wires the crank sensor directly to the dash. It works good up to about 3k then it starts getting flakey. I don't spend much time up in the 3k range and if I do I'm not watching the tach.
gwunter
Active member
Well I've logged about 400 miles on it so far. I recently completed the 4" straight exhaust. Honestly the noise is very tolerable!! I'm really liking how this is turning out. Still no tach or speedo, but a bought a TCM from to get my vss, so I think I'm on the right track there. Worst thing that has happened so far is the pressure line worked its way out of the back of the power steering pump.....that was a mess. I also think I'm having turbo surge issue. I feel the vehicle surge at about 1/4 throttle, kinda like when your lugging a manual gasser and you need to downshift. Anyone think my diagnosis is correct there??
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
Sound like it's time for compounds. Lol! Just joking. That's kind of weird that it would surge that easy on a stock motor. What speed is it doing it? Is it only in overdrive when you are up to highway speeds or during acceleration from a stop?
gwunter
Active member
After a few more miles I don't think it's turbo surge. I think it's something in the fueling of the IP. I've been focusing on some other things on it as well. I got my complete 4" exhaust ran with a 5" mbrp tip. I think it looks pretty good. It's got a pretty descent exhaust tone as well. I also think the exhaust noise is just fine, not obnoxious. I also put a temporary boost gauge in as well. During a hard run it'll hit 30psi. I thought this was pretty good with this turbo. I currently need to replace the alternator as it spikes voltage at random times...18v. Especially when I get on it for a bit. Here's a couple pics of the tail pipe.
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
Looks good. You need to post a video of it, standing 6 or more feet away. Would love to hear what it sounds like.
Wash the black soot of the painted plastic frequntley or it wont come off. Something with mechincal trucks there soot seems to stick better to painted plastic the CR or even HEUI trucks.
I ended up using some acetone then rewax that part, hot soapy water wouldnt take it off. Then again I went about a month and 4k miles with out washing the truck.
I ended up using some acetone then rewax that part, hot soapy water wouldnt take it off. Then again I went about a month and 4k miles with out washing the truck.
gwunter
Active member
I should have added. The black soot was pre-tip. Since I added the tip I don't think its getting coated like that. The tip sticks out a bit but I don't think its outlandish or anything and I think the 5" is not overkill either.
Luke@MillerPerformance
Member
Does it make tire smoke though?
