Layson
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08 F350 axels swap Into my 1996 powerstroke help??
- Thread starter 1996Powerjoker
- Start date
FrankTheTank
Active member
First off, I don't want to take any of Cary's business away so I still recommend ordering what you need thru him.
But I can tell you it's easy to get the axle centered. I'm on 2.5" pure performance lift coils and can fit 295/65/r20s (35.5×11) with NO issues. Even on hard angles turning up a hill. My back tire lifts off the ground before it rubs. I do rub the radius arm slightly on full lock but not enough to even bother mentioning. But that's a 11" wide tire not a 12.50, I could see possiabe problems at that point on full lock up an angle flexed out but nothing a bumper trim couldn't take care of.
I am running an adjustable track bar from pure performance and I highly recommend one for the swap as there is no other way to fine tune centering the axle. The track bar mount should be welded on by a professional as that is the single most important piece of the swap that CANNOT fail. If it does, you are putting you, your family, and innocent bistanders life in your hands. I recommend the one from ballistic fab. The factory one can be used from the 05+ frame but only with the SD steering box. IMHO, the factory trac bar mount doesn't place the bar at the proper angle and give you proper clearance needed.
Cary's kit also includes custom brake lines. I didn't get it because I wanted to replace mine with nickle copper tubbing that doesn't rust (rust belt) so I didn't ever have to do it again. With this being done I located all my lines where they needed to be and ran all new custom lines to compensate. Cary's brake lines are bolt on, plug and play.
I highly recommend the SD steering box swap due to the larger, longer, beefier, and straighter pitman arm. The straighter arm helps with steering angles to reduce the possibility of bump steer. Also the 02+ steering boxes (you will be using an 05-09.5 box) use a different power assist ratio for softer steering as far as my research shows. The SD box with the longer pitman will also increase your turning radius to actually push the wheels to full lock against the bump stops on the steering knuckles. It doesn't require much work to swap the box and can be easier then finding someone to ream your pitman to a larger joint or even removing your old pitman arm sometimes.
I'm sure I forgot to cover something that you asked.....
But I can tell you it's easy to get the axle centered. I'm on 2.5" pure performance lift coils and can fit 295/65/r20s (35.5×11) with NO issues. Even on hard angles turning up a hill. My back tire lifts off the ground before it rubs. I do rub the radius arm slightly on full lock but not enough to even bother mentioning. But that's a 11" wide tire not a 12.50, I could see possiabe problems at that point on full lock up an angle flexed out but nothing a bumper trim couldn't take care of.
I am running an adjustable track bar from pure performance and I highly recommend one for the swap as there is no other way to fine tune centering the axle. The track bar mount should be welded on by a professional as that is the single most important piece of the swap that CANNOT fail. If it does, you are putting you, your family, and innocent bistanders life in your hands. I recommend the one from ballistic fab. The factory one can be used from the 05+ frame but only with the SD steering box. IMHO, the factory trac bar mount doesn't place the bar at the proper angle and give you proper clearance needed.
Cary's kit also includes custom brake lines. I didn't get it because I wanted to replace mine with nickle copper tubbing that doesn't rust (rust belt) so I didn't ever have to do it again. With this being done I located all my lines where they needed to be and ran all new custom lines to compensate. Cary's brake lines are bolt on, plug and play.
I highly recommend the SD steering box swap due to the larger, longer, beefier, and straighter pitman arm. The straighter arm helps with steering angles to reduce the possibility of bump steer. Also the 02+ steering boxes (you will be using an 05-09.5 box) use a different power assist ratio for softer steering as far as my research shows. The SD box with the longer pitman will also increase your turning radius to actually push the wheels to full lock against the bump stops on the steering knuckles. It doesn't require much work to swap the box and can be easier then finding someone to ream your pitman to a larger joint or even removing your old pitman arm sometimes.
I'm sure I forgot to cover something that you asked.....
1996Powerjoker
New member
Okay so basically you used
adjustable trac bar, 2.5 inch lift SD gearbox, The adapter for the rear drive shaft, change break lines (just because fittings different?) and what else so I can write a list and start gathering everything for the summer when I try and complete this swap! Lol I am going to go remove everything from the donor truck on Sunday hope it all goes well. I will make sure I take the gear box with me at the same time, is there anything i should remove with the axels I may forget or not know I need ? I am excited for this swap!!! What will i need to order from cary?? Sorry for asking so many questions all just have no idea where to start and where to finish haha
adjustable trac bar, 2.5 inch lift SD gearbox, The adapter for the rear drive shaft, change break lines (just because fittings different?) and what else so I can write a list and start gathering everything for the summer when I try and complete this swap! Lol I am going to go remove everything from the donor truck on Sunday hope it all goes well. I will make sure I take the gear box with me at the same time, is there anything i should remove with the axels I may forget or not know I need ? I am excited for this swap!!! What will i need to order from cary?? Sorry for asking so many questions all just have no idea where to start and where to finish haha
Layson
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Just bring the rolling chassis home and then take back what you don't need.
1996Powerjoker
New member
I wish lol that would save me so much of a head ache, the guys who owns the truck is parting it out so I gotta get all dressed up to go and remove them this weekend.
Layson
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Dang.
brettboat
In the Brig (Banned)
08+ axles with the fallowing installed
Front
New Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads
Dyna track free spin kit with Dyna loc lockouts
Prosteer ball joints
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats
Ford seals and miss brake parts
Fabbed Cover
Oil
Paint
Cleaning supplies
outside labor sand blast and ball joint and U joint install
labor
Rear
Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads
Ford seals and miss brake parts
rear fined diff cover and bolts
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats
New emergency brake pads
Oil
Paint
Cleaning supplies
labor
Total
4" kit with Bilsteins and adj 4 link arms..
B code rear springs
5 line SS brake lines with adapters..
track bar weld on mount
Dual steering stabilizer kit with Fox..
Front bolt on sway bar frame
It's going to be around $17k in parts when it's all said and done. Plus labor to install all of it. I work to much to take on a project like that.
I've been impressed with Cary, he gave me some awesome deals on my engine build. And he's quick to respond to phone calls and emails about the products he sells... That's why I do business with him.
Last edited:
JD3020
Active member
How in the hell is that $17k in parts?????
brettboat
In the Brig (Banned)
Axles are $3200 for a set (I can't even find 08+ front axles where I'm at, nor do I have the time to source them and pick them up I also have nowhere to put them)
New Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads $350
Dyna track free spin kit with Dyna loc lockouts $2653
Prosteer ball joints $660
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats $450
Ford seals and miss brake parts $125
Fabbed Cover $117
Oil $25
Paint $10
Cleaning supplies $15
outside labor sand blast and ball joint and U joint install $347
labor $400
Rear
Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads $350
Ford seals and miss brake parts $125
rear fined diff cover and bolts $80
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats $450
New emergency brake pads $85
Oil $25
Paint $10
Cleaning supplies $15
labor $400
Total $9892
4" kit with Bilsteins and adj 4 link arms..$2240
B code rear springs $785
5 line SS brake lines with adapters..$240
track bar weld on mount..$85
Dual steering stabilizer kit with Fox..$420
Front bolt on sway bar frame..$225, for 208 up sway bars
Add in rims and tires... It's about $17k, when I priced out all that stuff... It's about the same. I bring in between $120-140k a year, I'm single, I hardly have any debt... I travel for a living, average about 70 or so hours a week at work... It's cheaper for me to pay someone to organize my builds than me try to source everything thing out myself, get it all together, get all the RIGHT stuff together... Not even worth it. That's why I like Cary, tell him what I want and how I want it... He'll make it happen.
The build was originally going to be over $23k but Cary talked me out of Chromoly shafts, ARB lockers, etc.
New Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads $350
Dyna track free spin kit with Dyna loc lockouts $2653
Prosteer ball joints $660
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats $450
Ford seals and miss brake parts $125
Fabbed Cover $117
Oil $25
Paint $10
Cleaning supplies $15
outside labor sand blast and ball joint and U joint install $347
labor $400
Rear
Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads $350
Ford seals and miss brake parts $125
rear fined diff cover and bolts $80
Brake Calipers and mounting Hats $450
New emergency brake pads $85
Oil $25
Paint $10
Cleaning supplies $15
labor $400
Total $9892
4" kit with Bilsteins and adj 4 link arms..$2240
B code rear springs $785
5 line SS brake lines with adapters..$240
track bar weld on mount..$85
Dual steering stabilizer kit with Fox..$420
Front bolt on sway bar frame..$225, for 208 up sway bars
Add in rims and tires... It's about $17k, when I priced out all that stuff... It's about the same. I bring in between $120-140k a year, I'm single, I hardly have any debt... I travel for a living, average about 70 or so hours a week at work... It's cheaper for me to pay someone to organize my builds than me try to source everything thing out myself, get it all together, get all the RIGHT stuff together... Not even worth it. That's why I like Cary, tell him what I want and how I want it... He'll make it happen.
The build was originally going to be over $23k but Cary talked me out of Chromoly shafts, ARB lockers, etc.
Last edited:
m j
Active member
freespin kit? why? just so you can run alloy shafts?
the factory stubs are beefy
freespin kit is a waste of $3000
he talked you out of lockers???
I would have talked you out of a freespin kit and made sure you got lockers
the factory stubs are beefy
freespin kit is a waste of $3000
he talked you out of lockers???
I would have talked you out of a freespin kit and made sure you got lockers
brettboat
In the Brig (Banned)
Well we're going to go with a factory LSD in the back, open front diff. I hardly ever take my truck offroad.
And from what I've read the freespin kit is well worth it... But I'm kinda known for going over the top on my builds.
And from what I've read the freespin kit is well worth it... But I'm kinda known for going over the top on my builds.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
superdutys are free spin anyway unless you're trying to get rid of the unit bearing which if you keep timkens on it they will last 100k plus
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
FrankTheTank
Active member
I'd agree, scrap the free spin and put a tru-trac in the rear. The 05+ unit bearings are beefy and don't have the problems the 99-04 bearings did. And you can buy factory lock unlock hubs.
I'd also ditch the bilsteins and get FOX shocks. But that's my opinion.
I'd also ditch the bilsteins and get FOX shocks. But that's my opinion.
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brettboat
In the Brig (Banned)
Well I'm still debating between fox and bilsteins.
sootie
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gnxtc2
Active member
rusty1161
Member
gnxtc2
Active member
That's still in the works but after the winter. Still going to maintain my truck. Who knows, I might keep it and have two trucks.
Billy T.
[email protected]
FrankTheTank
Active member
The fox shocks are tuned more twards performance coil spring rates. But if you were to get some Billy. I'd do the 2.0s.
On a progressive rate coil I'd do something with more rebound controll. Maybe something with a remote resivoir or a piggyback resivoir.
On a progressive rate coil I'd do something with more rebound controll. Maybe something with a remote resivoir or a piggyback resivoir.
Layson
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I still don't see 17k.
