196k all original. WHAT are you doing

DEEZUZ · Oct 19, 2015

Just tossing this up here. Early 03

All original down to the head gaskets(not bad, but have to come off anyway). Lifter tick, caught in its first stages, just barely metallics in filter. Hopefully just lifters, but maybe cam.

What are you going to do while it's apart if you plan on keeping it for awhile? Mild build, stock fuel stock air, grocery truck

And..... GO

DEEZUZ · Oct 19, 2015

Oh and I don't mean kiddy crap like EGR deletion and basics like that.. I mean as far as the hard parts go...

Does anyone know a good way to purposely remove the check ball from HPOP so I can go ahead and thread a plug in there?

Merc82 · Oct 21, 2015

Mild build if it was me. If it needed a cam, I would upgrade. 205/30s, diesite hpop, and maybe a s364.5 fmw. And maybe some supporting airflow mods.

mcdaniel1991 · Oct 22, 2015

What are the plans for the truck? What is it used for?

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DEEZUZ · Oct 22, 2015

Mild build, stock fuel stock air, grocery truck

patricku47 · Oct 22, 2015

If you're staying stock fuel and air, all I would do would be stud it, stock cam, new lifters, oil cooler and the other 6.0 "fixes". Stay low budget so there is still some room to make some off of it if you decide to sell it.

TyCorr · Oct 22, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
Oh and I don't mean kiddy crap like EGR deletion and basics like that.. I mean as far as the hard parts go...

Does anyone know a good way to purposely remove the check ball from HPOP so I can go ahead and thread a plug in there?

The hpop on the 04 6l has a plug in it. The checkball was gone already

so im not sure how it comes out.

DEEZUZ · Oct 22, 2015

I'm thinking I'm going to just heat the area around the ball and hope it'll fall out. Maybe weld something on it and slide hammer it out... I mean if they can just fall out in normal applications, with some heat and a good yank it should fall right out.

My costs on a pump though is just that, cost... But like I said I don't know where I'm going with it yet.

DEEZUZ · Oct 22, 2015

My Biggest debate is opening up the bottom end. Like check rod bearings and such.. Once you Crack those open your pretty much committed to changing them all. Also I hate retorqing rod bolts. I believe their one time use only. We have gotten a lot of reman motors that spit rods out the side. And I have found the rod bolts heads twisted clear off

Does ARP make rod bolts?

patricku47 · Oct 22, 2015

They do, looks like its the same for a 6.0 and a 6.4. I really don't know that I would worry about the bottom end unless you feel there is an issue with it. My regular cab has 196k on it, has been well maintained, and I am convinced the bottom end will last without issues.

renegade · Oct 22, 2015

I would just replace the HPOP with a Diesel Site pump and be done with it. The stock early style pumps are notoriously a weak link.

swinky · Oct 22, 2015

My rod bearings looked okay at 228k. Replaced them anyway.

Dyno proven has a aftermarket pump as well.

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DEEZUZ · Oct 22, 2015

That's just it, I don't even want to Crack open the bottom end to inspect, there going to be fine. Is always that 'while you're there' type thing.

6.0 Tech · Oct 22, 2015

In my opinion, for what its worth, i'd open up the bottom end and reseal it, as well as putting bearings in. Did this to mine when i found a cracked piston while doing my head gaskets and studs. Been about 40k now and no issues. Plus it would make it easier to change the cam while you're doing that.

Wildman · Oct 23, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
I'm thinking I'm going to just heat the area around the ball and hope it'll fall out. Maybe weld something on it and slide hammer it out... I mean if they can just fall out in normal applications, with some heat and a good yank it should fall right out.

My costs on a pump though is just that, cost... But like I said I don't know where I'm going with it yet.

The HPOP ball is one of many problems with the early style Rexroth pumps. When the check ball fails, you get a no start and low ICP. However, another issue is that the Rexroth pumps will fail in oil VOLUME, but not in PRESSURE. Therefore they'll build 500+ lbs of ICP during testing (blocked off), but they can't support the volume of oil that the injectors need to fire. Which makes it hard to diagnose if you're not familiar with early 6.0's. Later models got the Shepard pump, which was much more reliable overall.

As far as trying to heat up the HPOP ball to get it out, that will ruin the pump. If you're worried about the ball popping out and you are looking to weld something to fix it, just weld the ball to the pump. Even though you risk damaging the pump by doing that (due to heat), it will certainly prevent the ball from popping out if it works.

As far as rod bearings, I would never change main or rod bearings unless they were damaged. Bearings are not a wear and tear item; with proper maintenance and a high quality oil they should last indefinitely. Bearing wear only occurs due to oil breakdown, oil contamination, or mechanical failure. If the bearings are severely worn, that is a sign of other internal engine issues.

IHPowerstroke7.3 · Oct 24, 2015

No reason to take the bottom end apart. Have seen lots of high milers, bottom ends look perfect. Now if you had a lifter totally fail, might be reason to go looking. But I hav had a lifter fail, go through the lpop and cause a no start. Checked bearings, fine. New lpop and front cover, no issues.

swinky · Oct 24, 2015

Wildman said:
The HPOP ball is one of many problems with the early style Rexroth pumps. When the check ball fails, you get a no start and low ICP. However, another issue is that the Rexroth pumps will fail in oil VOLUME, but not in PRESSURE. Therefore they'll build 500+ lbs of ICP during testing (blocked off), but they can't support the volume of oil that the injectors need to fire. Which makes it hard to diagnose if you're not familiar with early 6.0's. Later models got the Shepard pump, which was much more reliable overall.

As far as trying to heat up the HPOP ball to get it out, that will ruin the pump. If you're worried about the ball popping out and you are looking to weld something to fix it, just weld the ball to the pump. Even though you risk damaging the pump by doing that (due to heat), it will certainly prevent the ball from popping out if it works.

As far as rod bearings, I would never change main or rod bearings unless they were damaged. Bearings are not a wear and tear item; with proper maintenance and a high quality oil they should last indefinitely. Bearing wear only occurs due to oil breakdown, oil contamination, or mechanical failure. If the bearings are severely worn, that is a sign of other internal engine issues.

Oil breakdown happens in the first thousand miles. It's worth looking at them at 196k if he plans on keeping the truck. Jmo

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DEEZUZ · Oct 24, 2015

Lifter is just in the first stage of failure. The oil filter just barely has metallics, the drain plug had just a little bit of debris. Engine ran perfect, just had an ever so slight ticking sound. LPO was perfect, I don't even think a needle came out yet. Probably just starting to flatten out

drunk on diesel · Oct 24, 2015

If the cam looks good, I'd probably just put lifters, studs, and glowplugs in it, and let it eat...

if the cam is galled, I'm doing rear main, bed plate, and rolling mains in it. as long as the mains look good, I'm not touching rod bearings. I would verify LPOP condition if I had the motor out. Probably put a new water pump on it just because also.