2003 e350 7.3 need help

nickg9785 · May 24, 2014

ok guys so at work we have a 2003 7.3 e350. it came in and wouldn't start, the guy said it ran away. and it was pushing straight fuel out of the left bank up pipe. so I yanked the motor and found a burnt up piston. so stripped the whole motor down and the cam was pretty well wore out. so it got one piston all new rings and standard bearings. heads decked and a full valve job since the valve faces were worn pretty thin. along with a new cam and lifters from ford. also got 8 new injectors for it. got it back together and fired up and it has a code p1263 for #3 injector high to low side short, it has a new uvch and I checked the wiring harness while I had the motor out. when it runs it seems real clattery compared to how they normally sound. and seems to lack power and blueish smoke out of the tail pipe. while your driving the clatter will get loud then go away then comeback again almost like its cutting a injector out. also when it sits over night or even for an hour it takes a lot of cranking to get it to fire. is there a way for me to check if the hpop is draining back? and ideas would be appreciated. thanks guys!

nickg9785 · May 25, 2014

Mahdeys · May 25, 2014

just because you have a new injector does not mean squat. I
ve had numerous "new" injectors from ford and international be bad right out of the box in my years of wrenching.

Arisley · May 25, 2014

Pull the plug on top of the HPOP reservoir. Dip a piece of coat hanger in there. Oil should be lose to the top.

Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.

Arisley · May 25, 2014

Run a buzz test.

Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.

nickg9785 · May 26, 2014

buzz test says number 3 high to low side short. but ive ohmed the wires to the computer from the injector and its fine

lincolnlocker · May 26, 2014

nickg9785 said:
buzz test says number 3 high to low side short. but ive ohmed the wires to the computer from the injector and its fine

grey cps by chance?

live life full throttle

neverkickn · May 26, 2014

You should have enough wire on the uvch to swap leads with an adjacent injector. You would not want to crank it like that but if a buzz test shows the same fault on the adjacent injector circuit then you know you need to replace the #3 injector.

neverkickn · May 26, 2014

Just noticed you checked wiring at the injector lead. Did you happen to check from the idm plug with the injector plugged in? That would test the entire circuit injector include.

nickg9785 · May 26, 2014

ill have to check more tomorrow, its a real pita to get the valve cover off expecially being in a van but ill pull the cover swap wires and run a buzz test and see what happens.

DEEZUZ · May 31, 2014

I assume you've never pulled VC's in a 6.0 E series then, lol!

Out of curiosity, what in the world did the cam cost from ford?

your blueish smoke is most likely all the built up fuel from prior failure, after any type of failure, turbo, injector, egr cooler, anything , I dont pay attention to any smoke until I put a good hard 50 miles on the truck.

nickg9785 · Jun 4, 2014

ive pulled valve covers in a E series before. not fun at all. if i remember correctly the cam was around $5-600 our cost i think.

nickg9785 · Jun 6, 2014

ok so I got around to pulling the valve cover and switching the wires around on the injector plugs, I took the harness and flipped it over and plugged everything in and ran a buzz test. still coming up with #3 high to low short. if it were a bad injector it would have changed to #5 short since I flipped the harness when the computer fires number 3 its really firing number 5 injector itself but using number 3 harness to do so. is there a test procedure to check the wires to the IDM? or a test to check the IDM its self? thanks guys

blageurt · Jun 10, 2014

I just replace IDM's...... you need an Occilliscope and have to have an advanced understanding of Electronics, to understand how to test them...If you can find one to plug in , to see if it runs better , I would try that first ....As far as the wiring goes you would need a Break-out box to test the wires..It has been discussed ad nauseum in this , and may other forums...Checking ALL wiring connections in the engine bay / pins ..... Including the IDM /PCM for corrosion would not hurt either....Spray cleaner / Air /di-electric grease...If you want a challenge try replacing Injectors in a Van....