2005 F550 6.0 hydro-locked...now what?

F350Dually

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So...we have a flatbed, running mostly empty, that needs help. The $ have been adding up, and we need to fix it once and for all;
A) Do we put in a junk yard motor? Add studs, head gaskets, delete, upgrade the turbo, with Ford injectors?
B ) Buy a long block or short block? From who? And continue with the same top end as above?
The truck does get loaded up once in awhile, but just does not get the workout these engines need. It is just reliability we're after, but a little spice, while we're in there (HP=::cool:) is ok.
 

AirFishAutomotive

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are you sure its hydrolocked beyond fixable? Have you taken all of the glowplugs out etc and tried to spin it over? What caused the hydrolocking. We have engines all the time, shoot me a pm if that's the route you try to go. Also can stud/delete/and put in brand new injectors before it even ships so its a drop in. A long block with no injectors/turbo start @ 1850 shipped. If you want a "package" deal let me know can price it out however.
 

F350Dually

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Right now, all I know is a reputable diesel shop checked it out and said it had been hydro locked. The EGR cooler ruptured while driving and filled the turbo and some cylinders. Now we are trying to decide to rebuild or buy a new short block...?
 

suprdzlduty

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Ummmm...this would not be the first hydro locked 6.0. If it's the egr cooler that caused it, which they are known for causing that. then they should be able to get it taken care of if they know what they are doing. A delete and oil cooler should get you back on the road.
 

78f100

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Unless it was severe and maybe bent a rod the bottom end should be fine. We have had several hydro locked with no damage. If they haven't cleared the cylinders and compression tested it I would find another shop.
 

F350Dually

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So, after further discussion. It seems this truck is running, so no bent rods. (I can't imagine too many engines will run with bent rods) The deal is that this motor has had problems since day one. I won't go into it. Its been a lemon. The shop feels like it has had too many Ford repairs, and too many problems. He has doubts about the short block, and does not want to put more $ into this engine with band-aids. He wants to get a complete motor, do the standard fixes, and not have to do another $5000+ repair.
My solution- pull the cab. New injectors, head studs, gaskets, delete, the usual.
Does this seem reasonable?
Also, he has had this thing over-boost, and go into limp mode, He has had intake boots blow off too many times. Is this most likely the turbo vanes sticking, or should I look elsewhere..
 

swinky

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The hot side boots? A little hairspray does wonders. It will run with bent rods but I'm willing to bet yours are straight.

What you do from here is up to you. Keep in mind lifter failures aren't unheard of in a 200ish thousand mile motor. A short block from airfish with fresh lifters would be a good idea.
 

sootie

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So, after further discussion. It seems this truck is running, so no bent rods. (I can't imagine too many engines will run with bent rods) The deal is that this motor has had problems since day one. I won't go into it. Its been a lemon. The shop feels like it has had too many Ford repairs, and too many problems. He has doubts about the short block, and does not want to put more $ into this engine with band-aids. He wants to get a complete motor, do the standard fixes, and not have to do another $5000+ repair.
My solution- pull the cab. New injectors, head studs, gaskets, delete, the usual.
Does this seem reasonable?
Also, he has had this thing over-boost, and go into limp mode, He has had intake boots blow off too many times. Is this most likely the turbo vanes sticking, or should I look elsewhere..

could be turbo vanes, i have also seen weird things happen when the catalytic converter gets plugged. ebp sensors issues can cause funky things as well.
 

F350Dually

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This truck has less than 100k. It has never gone over 15k miles without major issues. That's why the shop feels just putting another band-aid on it is not the thing to do. I say, rebuild top half, with studs and delete. I'm kinda stumped on the over boost and limp mode. I know how to keep the boots on.
 

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