2008 6.4 advice

[Oconco68]

Hello everyone, new to this so if I am not where I am suppose to be posting, please guide me.

There is an interesting story behind it, in short I bought a garage kept, one owner, 2008 F-250 6.4 King Ranch 135,000 miles for $500.

I did A/C, fuel systems and diagnostics for high line company fleets, for 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4 trucks and my friend had a new 2010 6.4 that ending in catastrophic then law suit and spent a lot of time on my computer. (Truck idled all day and barely exceeded 45 mph and never made it past warranty, DPF was not made for his driving habits at all). So I am familiar with the motor it has.

After all the family drama over the truck, their decision was to just get the truck off the property. Reason is that it had oil in the coolant.

All mechanical advice from friends and local mechanics was, engines gone, even though it still ran beautiful.

It landed in my court and after seeing the trucks condition what the hell for $500.

Well it was the oil cooler.

It had a EGR and a DPF delete done to it, but it is not running on a tuner and has engine light of course.

I have been driving around town and tested 4WD off-road on a hunting lease and it is just in my opinion worth keeping.
It is parked for now, will be back home in October and will be evaluating the situation.
Looking at about $10,000 in BPD, Mishimoto and some other improvements including Choate oil feed valve covers.

It will be in the family for years, I do not sell what is paid for and works well.

This truck will pull a 20,000 lbs boat in and out of a boat launch. Sounds easy but it take 4WD and everything any diesel has to offer.
No lifted truck will do it for a season, I promise!

Just looking for advice and opinions on anything with this truck about improvements to engine and/or transmission.

Thank you and looking forward to hearing from Y’all

 

[ncollins64]

Well I know you will get mixed answers here, and although I have a few 6.7s now and love them, I still have a 6.4 too and I’ve always had a soft spot for them. And knock on wood, out of the hundreds of thousands of miles I’ve put on the 6.4s I’ve never once had a problem. I over maintenance and prevent problems before they arise. In your situation I’d do a few things. Check compression and blow by, if all checks out good id pull the engine and fix it right. Oem oil cooler kit, thermostats, coolant line fix,and head gaskets, stone the block surface for the heads, A1 studs, depending on budget reuse the heads or get new from kdd (not reman). Heavier valve springs, pushrods from rcd and also get some new genuine Johnson lifters and new oem rocker assemblies. Reseal everything including oil pan etc. fuel injector line and o ring kit, front and rear seals, and like I said depending on budget do some 6.0 manifolds and some new up pipes and updated radiator hoses and maybe a coolant filter too. Always use ford oil and fuel filters, drain your lower fuel filter often, run fuel treatment in the winter at minimum, use good oil, and get good tuning. I can help with that too. Other than that drive the heck out of it.

O and as far as the trans goes, depending on the build date I’d make sure it has the updated newer style internal trans filter.

 

[Oconco68]

Well I know you will get mixed answers here, and although I have a few 6.7s now and love them, I still have a 6.4 too and I’ve always had a soft spot for them. And knock on wood, out of the hundreds of thousands of miles I’ve put on the 6.4s I’ve never once had a problem. I over maintenance and prevent problems before they arise. In your situation I’d do a few things. Check compression and blow by, if all checks out good id pull the engine and fix it right. Oem oil cooler kit, thermostats, coolant line fix,and head gaskets, stone the block surface for the heads, A1 studs, depending on budget reuse the heads or get new from kdd (not reman). Heavier valve springs, pushrods from rcd and also get some new genuine Johnson lifters and new oem rocker assemblies. Reseal everything including oil pan etc. fuel injector line and o ring kit, front and rear seals, and like I said depending on budget do some 6.0 manifolds and some new up pipes and updated radiator hoses and maybe a coolant filter too. Always use ford oil and fuel filters, drain your lower fuel filter often, run fuel treatment in the winter at minimum, use good oil, and get good tuning. I can help with that too. Other than that drive the heck out of it.

O and as far as the trans goes, depending on the build date I’d make sure it has the updated newer style internal trans filter.

Hey thanks for the info.
I really did not want to put top back together knowing it will be coming dark off, but I had to find the reason for the oil getting into the coolant. I got lucky and that was the problem.
There is so much to think about as for improving the issues. This is not a customers truck that they just want back in service. You know the deal when you know what it needs and the cost involved in doing it and the cost of not.
Good thing is that there is not a rush. I am pulling the cab off. On the 6.0 manifold deal. I seen a Black Bandit 6.0 manifold kit. Have you seen it, thoughts…
I have looked at the KDD o ring heads new. I am going to open it up. They said they did a DPF early.
It’s one of those rabbit holes. How far do you go. I don’t know how far I will go. I will address a whole range of issues though. You have the darn front cover and water pump deal. Relocating kits ect. That’s why I will just lift cab off and open her up.
The truck does need some type of tuner, this is my handicap, I do not know much about that. I would appreciate any advice on that.

As for the transmission, I have the one on the truck of course and I have a 2010 transmission, transfer case and front and rear differentials off of a truck a company rolled in 2015. Only thing I really know is the 6.0 ones are not interchangeable with the 6.4. 6 bolt 8 bolt deal thing going on with them.

We were really thinking of getting another 250 or 2500 4WD, I have a Dodge with 480,000. I’ve owned it for 23 years. The damn motor is out lasting the truck. It is about $70,000 for a new one, Not happening, but I was looking at a 2020 F-250 but that is still about $40,000.

I know I was hoping improvements total about $10,000 on this, motor only. It will be fun, my son will be right there cheering pop on for sure and the wife probably steel it, she loves the leather seats and wood look.
I still have my Dodge….Ha

 

[ncollins64]

I think everything I mentioned and what you want would be less than 10k if you’re doing the work yourself. If time is not a concern you can cover your basis and do it right. But it’s a nice truck though, I’d fix it and rock it for years

 

[Oconco68]

I think everything I mentioned and what you want would be less than 10k if you’re doing the work yourself. If time is not a concern you can cover your basis and do it right. But it’s a nice truck though, I’d fix it and rock it for years

Thank you man, we gonna do it

 

[Racer71]

I’ve heard that the choate valve covers have many issues, I looked into them on my build. Had a couple of private convos with a few that had actually bought them. Only difference in the trans is the torque converter, super early 5r110 had a few issues that were remedied around 2004. There are a few other changes on the 6.4 ones that don’t amount to much other than engineering changes. A good fuel system and keep some lubricity additive in the fuel and you’ll be ok until you’re not. Many of the failures were tuning related or injector pump failures that caused piston failure. Lifters also were a failure point as they were with the 6.0.

 

[Petro]

In my opinion, if you're planning to tear it down to do heads and reseal the upper and lower pan etc, then I'd go ahead and do a set of Maxx Force pistons and new bearings. The block will undoubtedly need bored at least .010 over or more, never seen one that didn't but you'll know exactly what you have and you won't have to worry about cracking a piston down the road.

 

[Oconco68]

I’ve heard that the choate valve covers have many issues, I looked into them on my build. Had a couple of private convos with a few that had actually bought them. Only difference in the trans is the torque converter, super early 5r110 had a few issues that were remedied around 2004. There are a few other changes on the 6.4 ones that don’t amount to much other than engineering changes. A good fuel system and keep some lubricity additive in the fuel and you’ll be ok until you’re not. Many of the failures were tuning related or injector pump failures that caused piston failure. Lifters also were a failure point as they were with the 6.0.

Hey, I will have to check out the issue with those valve covers. Thank you for that, it is one thing if the ports loose flow, but don’t want turbo issues because of them.
Yeh , the fuel pump issue. My friend and neighbor had a 2010 new at time. I seen the catastrophic effect of that first hand. Looking into a FASS system.
‘Well that is cool about the transmission. I am going to get a larger pan and a new cooler from Mishimoto. The thing needs some kind of tuning to get the codes and MIL light off. I do not want to change the performance, only to deal with the deletes. Any advice on that?

 

[Oconco68]

In my opinion, if you're planning to tear it down to do heads and reseal the upper and lower pan etc, then I'd go ahead and do a set of Maxx Force pistons and new bearings. The block will undoubtedly need bored at least .010 over or more, never seen one that didn't but you'll know exactly what you have and you won't have to worry about cracking a piston down the road.

Yeh man, ha, that will through my $10,000 wishful thinking out the window. I have been brain frying ont that exact issue. Going that far, It will get line bored and decked. There is no way I could live with myself if I did not change to a billet cam kit. I do like those Maxs Force Coated as a new addition, just they cannot come alone that far down. I will be back home about the middle of the month. The cab will be removed and notebook to start the project. Good thing is I have time to make killer decisions. It will need to be a dependable motor for sure. These were some crazy motors. I seen them very well cared for go to squat very early and ones that had no oil change and barely any maintenance live long. I’ll do the best I can and hope I get long life. Charter fishing is over so I do have 2 8.1L gas motors coming in for tare down. Looking at spring before the 6.4 will be done. Good thing is the barn is in the back yard and it’s the family cave. Thank you for your input.

 

[Racer71]

The factory machine work on these was awful to say the least. I bought the maxxforces turned chucked them in a friends cnc and delipped myself. If anyone does cerakote near you like for guns etc they can coat the crowns after you do them. I ended up at around 18k cost on parts on mine but that included both turbos being swapped for larger ones and a set of billet rods bigger injectors and a odp manifold, granted that was getting parts at cost on most of the above, not paying retail. There are some guys who still do some diet work. I believe I may have a canned tune saved on my pc in hpt format

 

[Oconco68]

The factory machine work on these was awful to say the least. I bought the maxxforces turned chucked them in a friends cnc and delipped myself. If anyone does cerakote near you like for guns etc they can coat the crowns after you do them. I ended up at around 18k cost on parts on mine but that included both turbos being swapped for larger ones and a set of billet rods bigger injectors and a odp manifold, granted that was getting parts at cost on most of the above, not paying retail. There are some guys who still do some diet work. I believe I may have a canned tune saved on my pc in hpt format

Hey, thanks, there is a set of Max Forces delipped and coated I seen. I’m staying in the stage 1 range and only stage 2 in areas of durability concern. inquiring with KDD over head and valve train.
on those billet rods you used, do they have bushing for wrist pins?

I have laugh, we can pay a PRICE$$$ for being old school or set in our ways. Especially when the big brother government forces us to have power depleting junk on our engines.

I showed my wife the post about this truck and I have gotten approval. Ha
She loves the damn truck, go figure.

We are lucky enough to have a nice running specimen to start with.

Thank you for your info. I am curious about those billet rods you used though.

 

[ncollins64]

When you get ready I can help you with the diet stuff as well. Depending on your goals you probably wouldn’t have to get billet rods, hell my 6.4 stock bottom end and pistons lived at 1100hp forever

 

[Oconco68]

When you get ready I can help you with the diet stuff as well. Depending on your goals you probably wouldn’t have to get billet rods, hell my 6.4 stock bottom end and pistons lived at 1100hp forever

Cool man, it will be great, thank you

 

[Racer71]

I used the RCD billets, actually made by Wagler of duramax fame. Totally not necessary but I wanted to not have to ever worry about it at 1k hp daily. I got them for near half price at cost over retail, I needed rods anyway so what the hell. They have H11 bolts etc, the locking system on the caps is very unique, a style I’ve never seen. As long as your existing ones measure ok I wouldn’t worry about them, my engine had two slightly bent, couldn’t visually see it but when checking protrusion had two that came up short.

 

[sootie]

dont delip the maxxfoce pistons. Idle haze and poor cold weather charactaristics arent worth it. Running a close to stock setup you wont crack one anyway. Just get good tuning that keeps the spray in the bowl.

 

[Oconco68]

dont delip the maxxfoce pistons. Idle haze and poor cold weather charactaristics arent worth it. Running a close to stock setup you wont crack one anyway. Just get good tuning that keeps the spray in the bowl.

Thank you, this is the first I hear of this. Yes it will be basically a stock engine build.
TUNING
I never had a truck with tuning. This one will need it for the deletes it has. I had the deletes and they just ran it with engine lights on all the time I guess. The son new nothing about it having a tuner or being tuned. I don’t think there is any easy route to to see if ECM has been programmed for the deletes.

what would you suggest on tuning? I will be helping it out with a 6.0 manifolds and 6.0 to 6.4 up pipes.
I do not want speed crazy fuel milage ect.
My Cummins has almost 500 grand on it, every one would tell me to get a tuner. Never did. I know this truck will need something for it. I’m not putting that stupid engine destruction stock exhaust back for sure.

 

[lincolnlocker]

In my opinion, if you're planning to tear it down to do heads and reseal the upper and lower pan etc, then I'd go ahead and do a set of Maxx Force pistons and new bearings. The block will undoubtedly need bored at least .010 over or more, never seen one that didn't but you'll know exactly what you have and you won't have to worry about cracking a piston down the road.

Absolutely agreed!! Good info right there!

 

[lincolnlocker]

dont delip the maxxfoce pistons. Idle haze and poor cold weather charactaristics arent worth it. Running a close to stock setup you wont crack one anyway. Just get good tuning that keeps the spray in the bowl.

Thats even better advice!


It dont matter what platform... you need the best tuning. Not just this ok stuff.





This is a brand new member.. hopefully he hasn't hoodwinked us.. epa is stupid sneaky these days.... i pray not

 

[Oconco68]

Thats even better advice!


It dont matter what platform... you need the best tuning. Not just this ok stuff.





This is a brand new member.. hopefully he hasn't hoodwinked us.. epa is stupid sneaky these days.... i pray not

Yeh man I am a new for sure. I have worked on Powerstrokes but never owned on. I do not specialize on just these engines. I do have a lot of auto mechanic experience, but I also worked on engines in the offshore oil field sector. I have an EMD piston for a small trash can. I joined 2 sites. This one and one other because I am aware of the issues with these motors, but I am not a so called expert. I can do what is needed, but they have hardcore Powerstroke cats out here that just know these motors and I am just looking for what the title says, ADVICE.

I am not an EPA asshole. I do have a tree hugging, vegan, liberal ass daughter. Still love her knucklehead ass. I cook deer every time she comes over (lol), she loves me enough to eat it. She knows its good, she grew up on it.

So I can see why I cannot get to much advice on the tuning issue. Thanks for all the other advice and opinions.

Best regards to all of you.

EPA…… HAHAHA……..OMFG!!!

 

[lincolnlocker]

Lmao! The daughter part is hilarious!! But i hear you.

Tuning for everything except a 7.3 has little to no suport... unless its from another country...........