2015 Upgrades

[Sarge03]

Well I finally decided to trade up from my F150 to the power of a 6.7. Honestly, I got bored with my F150 and wanted something bigger and better. However, I'm new to the diesel side of engines and from what I've seen, there isn't much out yet for the 2015's.

I'm looking for input on the best riding 6"-8" lift for my new project. Don't want to lose to much of the factory ride. I have a BDS lift on my F150. Does the BDS ride as good on the heavier F250?

Performance exhaust system? What systems have been field tested and prove from you guys?

And of course, with the exhaust comes a new intake system. Which performs better from the big names such as S&B, K&N, etc?

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[ftast350]

As for the engine/performance side of things I am sure Bigrpwr will chime in or you could get ahold of him for the No Limit intake and some delete tuning if you want to go that route.

 

[HS-MotorsportsDallas]

Just go big!

http://hs-motorsports.com/turbocharger/11-15-ford-6-7l-single-turbo-kit.html

http://hs-motorsports.com/fueling/11-13-ford-6-7l-dual-high-pressure-fuel-kit.html

 

[Powerstroked162]

Let me know if I can help. I've got my cold air intake kits and tuning for the 15's along with some other bolt ons if you're interested. Really depends on which route you want to go

 

[dseitler]

Just go big!



http://hs-motorsports.com/turbocharger/11-15-ford-6-7l-single-turbo-kit.html



http://hs-motorsports.com/fueling/11-13-ford-6-7l-dual-high-pressure-fuel-kit.html

You forgot the LPFP!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BK39]

Just go big!

http://hs-motorsports.com/turbocharger/11-15-ford-6-7l-single-turbo-kit.html

http://hs-motorsports.com/fueling/11-13-ford-6-7l-dual-high-pressure-fuel-kit.html

This^^^^^^^^^^^^:evil

 

[Sarge03]

Let me know if I can help. I've got my cold air intake kits and tuning for the 15's along with some other bolt ons if you're interested. Really depends on which route you want to go

Lol I'm not ready for the turbo just yet. The truck had 400 miles on it and I'd like to keep that Ford warrenty a little longer Lol. But I'm not opposed to reading some reviews or more information on your CAI and any exhaust system. I'm planning on lifting the truck 6-8" and rolling with 37'sx20's so any little bit of power I can get from simple not warrenty damaging components I'm all about looking into them. I'm just new to diesel and don't know where to start. I'm assuming since diesel engines love air and fuel, the HPFP and LPFP would be a must with the CAI and exhaust?

 

[bigrpowr]

as was said above, when it comes to anything performance, hit me up, i have every brand of intake including my own no limit stage 1 and 2 cold air intakes available, egr deletes, every tuning option there is, you name it, i gots it. and the best pricing.

 

[ftast350]

the 15s have enough fuel, go with an intake and a dpf back exhaust for now otherwise there isnt much a guy can do and save the warrenty.

 

[HS-MotorsportsDallas]

You forgot the LPFP!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Done!

http://hs-motorsports.com/fueling/11-15-ford-6-7l-low-pressure-fuel-system.html

 

[The Butcher]

If you are only going to run 37s, go with a 6 or 7 inch lift. My first version was an Icon 7" Stage 4 with full rear leaf replacement. Rode fantastic. Ass sat too low though. It needs about another 1.5" of lift on the back. Clears 37s on 20x10 (-19) with no trimming. I've since added PMF traction blocks, the Icon TEI spacer, and Carli long travel air bags. Ride is stiffer, likely from the air bags and traction blocks. I just ordered some PMF 3 link arms too since my castor was all screwed up after the TEI addition.

If you want a little less lift the Carli pin top 4.5" will clear 37s with the correct wheel size and backspacing. Probably rides a little better than the Icon, but you'll have to trim to get a 10" wide wheel with any negative offset to fit without rubbing pretty good.

I'm keeping my factory exhaust and intake because I don't want any additional noise. Probably going to add a SuperChips flashpaq for a little more performance. From what I can tell from reading threads on here it is a decent solution for DPF on power addition. Plus, it's pretty cheap.

 

[Powerstroked162]

Lol I'm not ready for the turbo just yet. The truck had 400 miles on it and I'd like to keep that Ford warrenty a little longer Lol. But I'm not opposed to reading some reviews or more information on your CAI and any exhaust system. I'm planning on lifting the truck 6-8" and rolling with 37'sx20's so any little bit of power I can get from simple not warrenty damaging components I'm all about looking into them. I'm just new to diesel and don't know where to start. I'm assuming since diesel engines love air and fuel, the HPFP and LPFP would be a must with the CAI and exhaust?

Hey I understand completely. It's a lot to buy a brand new truck and start throwing parts at it lol. I have a 2015, and I don't know of anyone else besides Morgan @ Midwest who has spent as much time doing product testing and development as I have. I've got some great dpf on performance packages that will give you a little extra boost without being a headache or hassle for you and your ford dealer. My cold air intake kit and flashpaq tuner picked up 103rwhp on the performance setting while managing to gain back some fuel mileage and not affecting regen cycles. It's very budget friendly and I've not had a unsatisfied customer yet with that setup. Driveway friendly install and looks great under the hood to boot.

As far as bolt ons go, you won't need anything other than a intake and tuner if you are keeping the emissons equipment intact and operational. The factory HPFP and LPFP are more than adequate for the demand. Exhaust would be merely for cosmetics. You won't see any gains with a dpf back kit. As well, if you end up going with a dpf back kit for your truck, you'll want to be sure you get a 15 specific kit, which I have available. 11-14 kits are missing sensor bungs in the aft section that you'll need.

Let me know if you'd like some pricing or if I can help at all. I'd be glad to lend a hand however I can

~Steve

 

[Sarge03]

PM sent Steve

 

[Sarge03]

If you are only going to run 37s, go with a 6 or 7 inch lift. My first version was an Icon 7" Stage 4 with full rear leaf replacement. Rode fantastic. Ass sat too low though. It needs about another 1.5" of lift on the back. Clears 37s on 20x10 (-19) with no trimming. I've since added PMF traction blocks, the Icon TEI spacer, and Carli long travel air bags. Ride is stiffer, likely from the air bags and traction blocks. I just ordered some PMF 3 link arms too since my castor was all screwed up after the TEI addition.

If you want a little less lift the Carli pin top 4.5" will clear 37s with the correct wheel size and backspacing. Probably rides a little better than the Icon, but you'll have to trim to get a 10" wide wheel with any negative offset to fit without rubbing pretty good.

I'm keeping my factory exhaust and intake because I don't want any additional noise. Probably going to add a SuperChips flashpaq for a little more performance. From what I can tell from reading threads on here it is a decent solution for DPF on power addition. Plus, it's pretty cheap.

Thanks man! I will definitely look into the Icon package! Only thing that makes me hesitate about going with an 8" lift is I tow my new 20' metal deck car hauler with my 86 Samauri and 4-wheeler. I don't want any issues, even with a tough drop hitch, while pulling it. I've heard horror stories of people's hitches that were "correctly rated for the weight they were hauling" malfunction or people ruin tires on their trailers because of the increased angle.

 

[bigrpowr]

Thanks man! I will definitely look into the Icon package! Only thing that makes me hesitate about going with an 8" lift is I tow my new 20' metal deck car hauler with my 86 Samauri and 4-wheeler. I don't want any issues, even with a tough drop hitch, while pulling it. I've heard horror stories of people's hitches that were "correctly rated for the weight they were hauling" malfunction or people ruin tires on their trailers because of the increased angle.

im an icon dealer if you're interested, let me know.

 

[The Butcher]

Thanks man! I will definitely look into the Icon package! Only thing that makes me hesitate about going with an 8" lift is I tow my new 20' metal deck car hauler with my 86 Samauri and 4-wheeler. I don't want any issues, even with a tough drop hitch, while pulling it. I've heard horror stories of people's hitches that were "correctly rated for the weight they were hauling" malfunction or people ruin tires on their trailers because of the increased angle.

You just need to set up your trailer and hitch for the right height. My 20' deck over has a bulldog coupler that I can raise or lower on it by changing the location where it is bolted. I moved it up when I raised the back with the traction blocks, and I have the most drop I can get for a 20K rating (I think it is about 4"). I towed 12K on it a couple of weeks ago and it rode great. The true test is going to be towing a full-size truck on it for 500 miles which I'll do in about a month, but I'm going to load it up next week and see how it does with some freeway driving just to make sure I've got it set up right. Buddy of mine brought back a Defender 90 on it last weekend from New Orleans behind his dually with the Carli pin top 4.5" and 37s, and he said it was fine. He did say he thought the trailer was much heavier dry than the claimed 3,500lbs. I think he just used to towing his 50' boat trailer, so the smaller trailer moved around more and he wasn't liking that. If you get your trailer leveled out right by matching your hitch and trailer height you'll be fine. I did swap out my factory hitch for 20K unit, and I have a 20K mount and ball as well. Not that it matters for road manners, but at least I'm legal as long as I keep it below the max of the trailer (15K).

All of that being said, if you are for sure going to run 37s (and not 38s), then get the Icon 7", but get a set of blocks to replace the factory one. I think the factory block is 1-7/8", and you need at least an inch and half, but probably 2" more than factory. I got traction blocks (4.5" total height), but you don't have to go that route. I think my truck is actually more level now even after adding 2", but at first I thought it was maybe ass high. If you don't get a taller block your ass is going to be dragging big time when you hook up your trailer.

 

[Sarge03]

Hey I understand completely. It's a lot to buy a brand new truck and start throwing parts at it lol. I have a 2015, and I don't know of anyone else besides Morgan @ Midwest who has spent as much time doing product testing and development as I have. I've got some great dpf on performance packages that will give you a little extra boost without being a headache or hassle for you and your ford dealer. My cold air intake kit and flashpaq tuner picked up 103rwhp on the performance setting while managing to gain back some fuel mileage and not affecting regen cycles. It's very budget friendly and I've not had a unsatisfied customer yet with that setup. Driveway friendly install and looks great under the hood to boot.

As far as bolt ons go, you won't need anything other than a intake and tuner if you are keeping the emissons equipment intact and operational. The factory HPFP and LPFP are more than adequate for the demand. Exhaust would be merely for cosmetics. You won't see any gains with a dpf back kit. As well, if you end up going with a dpf back kit for your truck, you'll want to be sure you get a 15 specific kit, which I have available. 11-14 kits are missing sensor bungs in the aft section that you'll need.

Let me know if you'd like some pricing or if I can help at all. I'd be glad to lend a hand however I can

~Steve

Steve, not sure if my PM went through because I'm a new member. I know some forums make you post a certain amount of posts before you can PM. I'm interested in talking to you about your system and pricing.

I also posted on the 6.7 tech forum but I will bring my question here while I'm thinking about it. Can anyone tell me how the 2015 6.7 Regen cycle works? Does it send fuel on the exhaust stroke or does it have a bypass system like the Duramax? How does it know when a Regen is needed? Does it go off mileage, gallons burned, or does it have a sensor in or around the DPF that tells when the sensor is caked with carbon?

I've looked everywhere and tried doing as much research online before asking noob questions on the forum, but I can't find what I'm looking for.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Sarge03]

im an icon dealer if you're interested, let me know.

What sets Icon apart from say BDS? I had a 6" BDS suspension lift on my 2012 F150 and loved the ride. Since I work in the oil field, I'm constantly driving down beat up county roads and pot hole filled dirt roads. I want as much arm travel as possible to reduce the wear and tear on my front end. But I also don't want to lose the great ride I currently have. Prices are pretty comparable between BDS and Icon, just want a unbiased opinion for the most dependable and smoothest ride I can get.