4K on build started smoking please help

hotrodtodd

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Hi guys, I have had a bad string of luck with my build after 4k miles and need some help. I was installing a dieselsite trans and decided to repair the oil leaks from my cooler, motor ran like a champ, just under 40 psi with the 38r with ******** tunes. I used a press to get the cooler together and pinched the oring. I drove it less than 50 miles before I noticed it was down on power and was smoking. Went to check the oil and it had turned to the grey sludge, coolant as well.

So I know it was the oring in the cooler that started this mess, I mounted the front side then pushed the assy on with a prybar off the exhaust manifold, way easier lesson learned. I drained the oil for over two weeks and pulled the plugs out too. The coolant side I ran my hose into the external coolant filter housing and flushed like crazy. Still contaminated but I know I will keep flushing with cascade and simple green with new coolant filters. I added a full can of sea foam to the fresh oil to help loosen all the sludge, the oil looks fairly clean to my surprise.

I was driving around and noticed the truck was still smoking and thought it might be left over oil and it needs to get hot enough to burn it out. I did have some sludge come out the ccv tube (I have it routed to exit at the gas tank, just a hose off an elbow at the valve cover). I started to lay into it to while watching the boost and I could only make 25lbs at most. I noticed a Oil smell and pulled over. My dipstick had spewed oil out and I just about had a heart attack thinking I have a dead hole. Then I thought that if the line got plugged enough with sludge to create enough pressure to push the dipstick out?

The smoke is not noticeable when cold at idle, the usual fuel smoke is still present tho. It is under 2k or so under deceleration and some at idle or after a long idle. It is grayish and when I fuel it the darker black smoke takes over in my hotter files. Since the very beginning I have had some blow by and the mist is still grey but the oil itself is still Brown, so I know there is still grey sludge to some degree internally. After some reading I noticed someone here mentioned that if you vent the ccv to the atmosphere, the oil side of the 38R can go, is this possible on one with that many miles and does it have any relationship to the dipstick tube or boost level? I pulled the intake side off and it was spotless, the 6637 and filter cover are working good. The shaft had some play radially and some play in and out. I questioned this right out of the box and I was told it's all good. No scrapping of the wheel either.

I don't have a compression tester, I will do a boost leak test to see if I have one, any other ideas guys I really need to have this thing up and running!

The motor was a full machined build, 238/100 38R heads done, regulated fuel with dual pumps. Tried to do everything right and all parts were new.
 

TyCorr

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Is the ccv/downdraft tube plugged?

Goung all the way back to the fuel tank is a long way.
 

hotrodtodd

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Yes, it could have been blocked but when I did pull over it was venting. I will pull it off to inspect. What about the other issues, they have me not sure where to start.
 

TyCorr

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I really dont know. With 4k miles you could gave a whole bunch of shti that is starting to manifest.

Take it to whiever did the work. I wouldn't be poking/prodding. Not good though.
 

hotrodtodd

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I think you have the wrong idea, the fresh motor has only 4k miles since I built it. The issues have only been the last 100 miles.
 

hotrodtodd

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I think you have the wrong idea, the fresh motor has only 4k miles since I built it. The issues have only been the last 100 miles.
 

TyCorr

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No. I follow...but thats just my opinion.

You check the turbo for boost and drive leaks?
 

dsberman94

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probably have oil sludge into the turbo bearings and it doesn't like it. just thinking about all that chit getting caught up in those ball bearings and in the pedestal is enough to make me cringe
 

TyCorr

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Thats possible but it wouldn't drag it down that far. The exhaust volume would be unchanged and still drive it but would get hot in the chra.
 

dsberman94

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the only thing that should blow that dipstick out of the tube is a chitload of blowby though. or would something else do it
 

hotrodtodd

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That's what's got me wondering, if the ccv was blocked it might build enough to push it out? It was real thick crap. The smoke and boost have me guessing, I know I have a couple of issues at once here. Its so frustrating that this motor never skipped a beat until now.
 

uncool

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Fresh head gaskets and 40 psi on less than your first oil change.

I say you pushed a gasket out. Coolant/oil/blowby.
 

hotrodtodd

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There was no 40psi before my first oil change, it's broken in andThe engine had zero issues up until I had the oil cooler problem, it had 4K miles at that point. The cooler had a small leak that I wanted to fix while I had the trans out. Then I changed the orings and oil, everything seemed fine until it got up to temp and cross contaminated the oil and coolant. I drove it about 50 miles before I noticed. I am not ruling out a head gasket but if it was wouldn't there be coolant in the oil again?
 
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Bluke

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I say pull the ccv doghouse and make sure it's clean and flowing. Make sure your ccv hose is clear. Once you verify that, do the old oil cap compression test.
 

hotrodtodd

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I say pull the ccv doghouse and make sure it's clean and flowing. Make sure your ccv hose is clear. Once you verify that, do the old oil cap compression test.

Yes, I will remove it tonight and see what it looks like. What is this compression test you speak of? I am curious....

Id go back and check the work again on the cooler repair.
The cooler seems to be fine now, the water level hasn't gone down and the oil is still brown and looks decent considering what it did look like. What would you say I should be looking for?

Thanks for any input guys.
 

Bluke

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So you flip the oil cap over and set it back on the fill tube. If it blows off its bad if it rattles off your good. But make sure your ccv is working correctly.
 

hotrodtodd

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So you flip the oil cap over and set it back on the fill tube. If it blows off its bad if it rattles off your good. But make sure your ccv is working correctly.

Interesting, I will give it a try. When I bought the truck it had a dead cylinder so I found out the hard way about these motors, I was interested to hear more about the sensitivity to the atmosphere with the ccv on the turbo. Would this create a loss of boost as well if the seals are shot?
 

Bluke

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That test is very crude and simple. It just a way to tell if you have too much blow by. That test could of warned you about the dead cylinder.
 

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