6.0 charging question

[loboost]

My batteries went bad so I replaced them with new.

They were stamped 1/12 which would make them just shy of 3 years old which seemed odd.

I noticed this am I cycled the glow plugs, it was only in the low 40s , and it cranked strong. I looked at the low record of voltage on my livewire and it was 9.81 for a second while cranking.

According to the live wire, I'm charging at around 13.2-14.1 at idle-1500 rpm.

Does that sound right? Or is my alternator failing & killed my other 2 batteries?

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[Derkperk]

The 13.2 is low. You should see 14.1 all the time. The obd port will show .2-.3 vdc lower than if you measure at the battery with a vom. It's very possibly your alternator is the culprit.

 

[loboost]

The 13.2 is low. You should see 14.1 all the time. The obd port will show .2-.3 vdc lower than if you measure at the battery with a vom. It's very possibly your alternator is the culprit.

Thanks for your reply. I just checked it at both batteries and its reading a solid 13.9 on both...that's at a 725 rpm idle with heat & headlights on

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[Derkperk]

Sounds like the alt is working okay

 

[loboost]

Sounds like the alt is working okay

I will say that the alt on the truck was stamped reman when I bought the truck...and the batteries weren't that old then. I guess its possible the damage had already been done before they actually went bad completely.

It got to the point I could slow charge them full and it would last a coupe days if it wasn't horribly cold.


I want to replace the alt with the earlier higher output model. I've got to wait for the Dr to clear me to use my arm again though.

Im pretty sure you can buy the adapter harness offline.

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[loboost]

I wanna bump this back up.

I noticed tonight on my livewire its seeing a 12.8-13.1 voltage...I understand theres gonna be some voltage drop...

I'm reading a steady 13.4-13.8 at both batteries..I can't decide if the alternators taking a chit or not.

Does this seem low to anyone else?

I have noticed one strange thing...when I crank the truck cold, or any other time its sat for a few hours, the voltage does not come right up...it'll sit at 11.4-11.8, according to the live wire again, and a couple minutes later it comes up to the voltages I stated earlier...

Any ideas

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[DEEZUZ]

Doesn't charge til a minute or two after glow plugs shut down

 

[slc dzl]

So 2 1/2 -3 years ago a bad alternator combined with the cold killed my battery's and ficm, so I replaced all of it.

Fast forward to this winter and any time its below 30ish out my truck will read 11.2-11.7 on the cts for the first 5 minutes then jumps back to 14+volts.
I have load tested the battery's and had the alternator tested all is good.
so with all that being said, sounds like our trucks are doing the same thing and I'm at a loss on what to try next.

I was going to start checking for a wire going to ground and draining the battery's, maybe that is what is happening to yours to.

 

[loboost]

So 2 1/2 -3 years ago a bad alternator combined with the cold killed my battery's and ficm, so I replaced all of it.

Fast forward to this winter and any time its below 30ish out my truck will read 11.2-11.7 on the cts for the first 5 minutes then jumps back to 14+volts.
I have load tested the battery's and had the alternator tested all is good.
so with all that being said, sounds like our trucks are doing the same thing and I'm at a loss on what to try next.

I was going to start checking for a wire going to ground and draining the battery's, maybe that is what is happening to yours to.

This delay in voltage has always been present since I've owned this truck...when I studded it I looked for any loose grounds, like you said to no avail. I have checked for a parasitic draw when key off, but nothing.

Its not struggling cranking or anything...and the voltages fall into fords 'normal' category but I just feel its low.

I hate to kill 2 new batteries...I assumed the alt killed the last 2 but I've chalked that up to too many charges when doing injectors and having the hpo system opened up

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[04cr450]

The problem is a 110 amp alternator is not powerful enough for these trucks... Heck a ford focus has the SAME alternator.. Upgrade to a min 140 amp(I just ordered a 185 amp dc powered alternator). Upgrade the wiring to at least a 4awg wire and you will see a huge difference with voltages at 13.9-14.1 volts and cold cranking no less than 12.4 or so. Make sure all your connection points are clean to bare metal

 

[loboost]

The problem is a 110 amp alternator is not powerful enough for these trucks... Heck a ford focus has the SAME alternator.. Upgrade to a min 140 amp(I just ordered a 185 amp dc powered alternator). Upgrade the wiring to at least a 4awg wire and you will see a huge difference with voltages at 13.9-14.1 volts and cold cranking no less than 12.4 or so. Make sure all your connection points are clean to bare metal

You're exactly right...that's a HUGE part of the reason they eat alternators. I'm actually thinking of doing a 3g alt upgrade. The underrated obs unit is almost half the cost, fits right in , just needs an adapter plug and pulley change.

If you don t mind saying...what'd the 190a cost?

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[slc dzl]

I honestly didn't even consider the output of the alternator :doh: well I will have to look into that as soon as some funds free up from the other truck.
The dc units seem pricey what other options are there?

 

[loboost]

I honestly didn't even consider the output of the alternator :doh: well I will have to look into that as soon as some funds free up from the other truck.
The dc units seem pricey what other options are there?

The obs alternators were underrated at 130 amps, fit the 6.0 bracket and just need a 15$ plug adapter and the pulley changed.

The cost of the obs units are like 130-150$ new.

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[slc dzl]

The obs alternators were underrated at 130 amps, fit the 6.0 bracket and just need a 15$ plug adapter and the pulley changed.

The cost of the obs units are like 130-150$ new.

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Thanks man :rockon:

 

[loboost]

Thanks man :rockon:

Yea buddy. Much cheaper than a DC.

Google f250 6g to 3g alternator

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[donald5184]

Part of the drop voltage after starting is the positive shutdown of the injectors to produce the heat in the cylinders to act as a glow plug. I looked into that and it sounds terrible for the injectors but they sure do it.

 

[loboost]

Part of the drop voltage after starting is the positive shutdown of the injectors to produce the heat in the cylinders to act as a glow plug. I looked into that and it sounds terrible for the injectors but they sure do it.

You have a link to some more info on this? I have no idea what you're talking about....unless you're talking about the later inductive heating ficm flash?


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[04cr450]

You're exactly right...that's a HUGE part of the reason they eat alternators. I'm actually thinking of doing a 3g alt upgrade. The underrated obs unit is almost half the cost, fits right in , just needs an adapter plug and pulley change.

If you don t mind saying...what'd the 190a cost?

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They don't make a 190a anymore it a 185a... $298 with $25 flat rate shipping

 

[04cr450]

Part of the drop voltage after starting is the positive shutdown of the injectors to produce the heat in the cylinders to act as a glow plug. I looked into that and it sounds terrible for the injectors but they sure do it.

This is incorrect. The glow plugs is what drops the voltages upon startup.. if u have a dual alt setup than the alts are designed NOT to start charging until the glow plugs shut down

 

[Snake]

OP - your alternator should be replaced if you want to save your batteries, FICM, and injectors.

Good reading: http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34810&d=1360377195

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