6.4 Shopping Advice

alradco · Mar 25, 2014

After attending NHRDA this past weekend I decided that I'd probably like to get into a 6.4. Just looking for buying advice, things to look for, and any other ins/outs on these. Is one year better over another? Truck won't stay stock.

Must be crew cab, 4x4, and prefer long bed.

I need to look into the tow ratings of F250 vs F350. This is the biggest trailer I tow which I'm sure the 6.4 will do just fine, just need to be legal.

SEABEE08FX4 · Mar 25, 2014

Most will say don't get a job 1, but I bought mine 5 years ago and 213K later all I have had to replace that wasn't from my abuse is the stock radiator @ 98K. Things to look for I would say burnt trans fluids, maintenance history, get a coolant pressure test done, Carfax report and that should cover most of any large issues.

With out going through it with a fine tooth comb it will be hard to find much that isn't visibly apparent or noticeable on a test drive.

sootie · Mar 25, 2014

best thing to look for when shopping for a 6.4 is the 6.7 in the spot next to it at the dealer LOL

MINK · Mar 25, 2014

sootie said:
best thing to look for when shopping for a 6.4 is the 6.7 in the spot next to it at the dealer LOL

Heard that!!!

Nah I enjoy my job 1 truck also, power is great but costly!

RSK · Mar 25, 2014

The 10's changed a few things interior wise, but nothing major. Although having the back up camera and sync are very nice not worth passing up a clean 08 for. Really not many differences.

drunk on diesel · Mar 25, 2014

glad to hear that! My reg cab is a Job 1.

My buddy had a super early Job 1 as his work truck and he and the other hands beat the tar out of that thing. He tuned it at 200k and it it was still going strong at 260k when they totaled it.

I think the most important thing with a 6.4 purchase is to get/have as much history as possible on the truck. I'd rather have a trouble-free Job 1 with all the correct updates and a good history than a Job 3 on a used car lot that specializes in diesel trucks with no history and/or evidence of previous deletes.

I would crawl under whatever truck you're looking at and look for evidence of deletes. I would have no problem buying a deleted truck from a trusted forum member, but a LOT of these things get traded in at the first sign of trouble, and it's VERY easy to push them over the edge with just a tuner.

Do your due diligence, coolant pressure test is a GREAT idea! Listen to your gut feeling, and remember... they made more than one of them!

SEABEE08FX4 said:
Most will say don't get a job 1, but I bought mine 5 years ago and 213K later all I have had to replace that wasn't from my abuse is the stock radiator @ 98K. Things to look for I would say burnt trans fluids, maintenance history, get a coolant pressure test done, Carfax report and that should cover most of any large issues.

With out going through it with a fine tooth comb it will be hard to find much that isn't visibly apparent or noticeable on a test drive.

alradco · Mar 25, 2014

sootie said:
best thing to look for when shopping for a 6.4 is the 6.7 in the spot next to it at the dealer LOL

With a hp goal in mind of 1000+ would that still be the case?

Thanks for the input so far everyone.

ncollins64 · Mar 25, 2014

I'm with some of these guys. My truck is a job 1 and the only thing I had to fix or replace that wasn't caused by me is wheel bearings and ball joints. I love the 6.4 platform and probably won't change for a while. While the new 6.7s are nice, in my eyes the interior and exterior are almost the same. Get a carfax and check the history and go for it. You want 1k, get a 6.4.

strokinpower · Mar 25, 2014

My truck is a job one and has been a disaster but I guess mostly all self inflicted. Head gaskets, cracked piston, exploding turbos 3 radiators.

LovinPSDs · Mar 27, 2014

alradco said:
With a hp goal in mind of 1000+ would that still be the case?

Thanks for the input so far everyone.

With a 1000hp goal the job won't matter. Your going to have to build the motor fully so who cares. Heck is search out one with a HG problem to pick it up cheaper if you do intend to build it. None of that stock stuff matters.

I have a CCLB for sale that needs HGs, but I really don't wanna sell it lol

Radioflyer · Mar 27, 2014

I've had my job 1 since 22k. Been tuned since 30k iirc. sitting around the 550+hp range since I tuned it with minor bolt-ons and still stock trans. Just recently studded it for piece of mind and threw a new oil cooler in it. No cracked pistons, valve train looked good, and heads were checked and machined and looked great (**knock on wood**), and going for more. it's got 110xxxk on her as of today. Had the typical radiator problem and the radiator hoses upgraded when I changed out the radiator. Ball joints are due and that's about all I've done to it. I agree with LivinPSDs post, when your shooting for that kind of HP, built motor on any year of the 6.4 is a must. Pistons, rods, valvetrain upgrade, fueling, etc. To achieve that, your doing more then just your basic bolt-ons of course. Been some horror stories on the Job 1's, but I'm a firm believer in routine maintenance makes a big difference. FWIW, I do my fuel and oil filters every 5K since day one. Did that make a difference, probably not, but is it a good piece of mind, to me it is. Have I been just plain lucky, more than likely in some peoples mind.

Jomax · Mar 27, 2014

alradco said:
With a hp goal in mind of 1000+ would that still be the case?

Thanks for the input so far everyone.

Don't expect to tow with 1k.....If you saw 1000 hp trucks in the Diesel power mag tow and still be a DD and race. Forget it...

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

jdgleason · Mar 27, 2014

Jomax said:
Don't expect to tow with 1k.....If you saw 1000 hp trucks in the Diesel power mag tow and still be a DD and race. Forget it...

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I disagree... I believe that there are setups that will make 1,000 and you can still tow with in the 6.4 world. I consider normal towing to be under 14k (for most of us) and I think that's easily do able with some set ups.

Lots of time and tuning into it.

Jomax · Mar 27, 2014

jdgleason said:
I disagree... I believe that there are setups that will make 1,000 and you can still tow with in the 6.4 world. I consider normal towing to be under 14k (for most of us) and I think that's easily do able with some set ups.

Lots of time and tuning into it.

But did you see his toyhauler in the first pic? That's 14k+ loaded..

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

ncollins64 · Mar 27, 2014

Jomax said:
But did you see his toyhauler in the first pic? That's 14k+ loaded..

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Im with JD. I actually built a 6.7 Cummins for my last ford and it dynoed 1080 and I towed my gooseneck regularly. I've grossed over 20k with it and towed like a dream. But I did build the engine from the bottom up using only the best parts. I don't see the 6.4 being any different as long as its built right to hold it.

Radioflyer · Mar 27, 2014

X3 with JD and ncollins.

ncollins64 · Mar 27, 2014

That's actually my goal for this fall build I'm doing with Morgan. Filled block, rods, pistons, etc. Im going for over 1k and still use it like I use it now and maybe dpc 2015

alradco · Mar 27, 2014

Thanks for all the input. If I come across something that's hurt I will definitely consider it but I'd prefer to get something that's problem free with a good history.

The toyhauler dry is mid 11k, so loaded probably around 14k. We only take it out 4-5 times a year, dragging it through the sand at the dunes.

Crack85 · Mar 27, 2014

alradco said:
Thanks for all the input. If I come across something that's hurt I will definitely consider it but I'd prefer to get something that's problem free with a good history.

The toyhauler dry is mid 11k, so loaded probably around 14k. We only take it out 4-5 times a year, dragging it through the sand at the dunes.

Going to lift the 6.4?