6.4budget build.

6fodays · Feb 2, 2016

Need opinions!! Okay, ive been saving and bouncing around ideas on what i want to do first....my plan in the end is a big single (s472 or s369), 60% or 100% nozzles, dual fuelers and supporting mods (studs, ported intake, bd manis and up pipes etc...)...ive been saving and with returns coming up i think i'm gonna go ahead and make sure my bottom end is secure......Im wanting de-lipped, flycut, ceramic coated pistons, colt stage 2 cam, valve springs, pushrods, and of course new lifters. Here are my options to go about this....my truck has 110k miles. Been ******d since 50k....

1. Pull my motor, send it to machine shop to get checked out and new pistons/cam installed?....Downside: trucks down for 2 months.....anyone know a ballpark figure if my block, rods and crank are okay???

2. Buy an already assembled reman short block?....upside: re assemble engine with new short block in a weekends time......can someone give me a ballpark figure for everything and has anyone had problems out of a reman engine???

3. Keep running my engine and throw big single on, and then dual fuelers, and then nozzles (flow tested of course) until i A. Drop a lifter or B.melt a piston.....

All opinions are welcome and if anyone knows any good engine shops near Charlotte Nc or Roanoke Va thatd help

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sootie · Feb 2, 2016

do turbo and fuel, run it until it blows. worst case is you are out the cost of a block.

Lots of big power on stock bottom ends...

6fodays · Feb 2, 2016

sootie said:
do turbo and fuel, run it until it blows. worst case is you are out the cost of a block.

Lots of big power on stock bottom ends...

Kinda what i wanted to do....but lots of heat is a no on these bottom ends. Everywhere i turn is leading to pistons. Im mainly looking for price ranges or any known shops in my area. I can pick up a reman short block with everything stated minus the cam for 4800. But its got a hefty core charge.

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sootie · Feb 2, 2016

tuning is key...

Rubenk · Feb 2, 2016

I'm running 700+whp on just a studded 180k mile factory engine. Been racing and sled pulling it the past 20k miles and still going strong!

6fodays · Feb 2, 2016

Rubenk said:
I'm running 700+whp on just a studded 180k mile factory engine. Been racing and sled pulling it the past 20k miles and still going strong!

I hope mine holds up that long.

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Radioflyer · Feb 2, 2016

Damn, probably the million dollar question you put up on here. LOL

If you're not on a time crunch with having the truck down, go with option 1. If you are, and then do option two and get a short/long block from a reputable builder. That may go out of your budget though for a good built unit.

Obviously the cheapest initial way of doing it is option 3. To me, that's rolling the dice but to each their own. Depends on how confident you are with your truck.

If I were to do it all over again, I would've saved my pennies and just had it done once and not worry about it. If there's anything I can help you with, let me know. :thumbsup:

StrokiNDieseL · Feb 2, 2016

You've owned it since ******d, Ran hard? if not, single it & run it w/some supporting mods like springs/pushrods, intake manifold & up pipes. I'm 3K miles into a complete build & spend too much due to purchasing a used short block & replacing w/coated Pistons, rods, cam, hpfp, springs, up pipes, wheel replacement (wish I would have done full upgrade like a single or new compounds), SAD lifters & spent to much.. If done again I'd purchase a built short block from Midwest diesel & be done! All depends on reliability but I'd probably go w/retaining your bottom end & single that thing & worry about chit later unless you've gotta the $ & time. IMO

6fodays · Feb 2, 2016

StrokiNDieseL said:
You've owned it since ******d, Ran hard? if not, single it & run it w/some supporting mods like springs/pushrods, intake manifold & up pipes. I'm 3K miles into a complete build & spend too much due to purchasing a used short block & replacing w/coated Pistons, rods, cam, hpfp, springs, up pipes, wheel replacement (wish I would have done full upgrade like a single or new compounds), SAD lifters & spent to much.. If done again I'd purchase a built short block from Midwest diesel & be done! All depends on reliability but I'd probably go w/retaining your bottom end & single that thing & worry about chit later unless you've gotta the $ & time. IMO

Ive put 10k on it since i bought it at 100k. Have papers from *** ****** at 50k. Old man owned it, still had stock exhaust with *** ****** pipe and muffler. Even had a bed cover and everything. It wasnt ran hard at all. And hasn't been by me either! So im throwing parts at it until it takes a ****. And then ill throw a new built shortblock...have any idea how much one from midwest diesel runs?

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StrokiNDieseL · Feb 2, 2016

6fodays said:
Ive put 10k on it since i bought it at 100k. Have papers from *** ****** at 50k. Old man owned it, still had stock exhaust with *** ****** pipe and muffler. Even had a bed cover and everything. It wasnt ran hard at all. And hasn't been by me either! So im throwing parts at it until it takes a ****. And then ill throw a new built shortblock...have any idea how much one from midwest diesel runs?

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Not an exact quote but around $7-8K easily on a "built" basic short block. Only option I left out was valve relieves on factory rods..

Rubenk · Feb 2, 2016

Keep in mind selling your running engine is possible if you buy a long block too.

Black AOD · Feb 3, 2016

Having gone through the situation you're in now, I vote buy a whole new block and build it how you like/ as $ allows and then swap it in. Plus this way if $ allows you can add more to it before it goes in the truck.

wiseguy · Feb 3, 2016

BlackSmoke08 said:
Having gone through the situation you're in now, I vote buy a whole new block and build it how you like/ as $ allows and then swap it in. Plus this way if $ allows you can add more to it before it goes in the truck.

x2 build a second motor running and driving you could probably sell yours for 6500

btoler4th · Feb 14, 2016

I juggled many options like you are right now. I really believe these motors varry in regards to strength, and what they can, and can't take. I have friends that abuse the hell out of them, run like a top on non studded motors. Then like mine- cracked a piston on a studded motor...Then you see on here what kind of power and abuse these motors will take on virtually stock bottom ends. It blows my mind. Tuning , like mentioned above is huge. With all this said, just do what you can afford, and don't skimp when you decide. You'll regret it. You get what you pay for. As far as shops go in NC...NCB Diesel & off road did mine about 2-3 hrs from you. Excellent job. Good luck which ever route you decide.

btoler4th · Feb 14, 2016

And for a figure...my set up with carillo rods, mahle de lipped cut...etc pistons , Hamilton springs and push rods...balanced etc..o ringed heads..valves was around $15k

78f100 · Feb 14, 2016

BlackSmoke08 said:
Having gone through the situation you're in now, I vote buy a whole new block and build it how you like/ as $ allows and then swap it in. Plus this way if $ allows you can add more to it before it goes in the truck.

This is what I would do, except I think I would have to go ahead with the fuel and air mods to the current motor.
Opt 1...Buy a short block from ford, find a cheap core engine, so you dont have a 3000$ core charge (remember ford has a no fault core policy) it has to be complete, not rebuildable. Not saying you should screw them on a core but they will take it in any complete form, even with rods hanging out. Build it as you want when you want, if the original engine fails you may be forced to speed up the build on the new one but with a lot less down time. Basically the machine work will already be done, cylinders will be back to stock bore, so now you can use IH pistons. Swap cam, leave stock rods in it unless your planning over 1000hp.When you swap the built one out if the original is still good you can always sell it then.

Opt 2.... Buy a decent short block and build from there. Take it to a machine shop who know these engines, this was my major problem in my area. If it needs boring and it will piston choices start changing. This will take longer and more work, may come out cheaper it's a gamble. You may end up with a few unbuildable blocks before you get a good one. Most time people don't pull good running 6.4s for no reason

6.0 Tech · Feb 14, 2016

78f100 said:
This is what I would do, except I think I would have to go ahead with the fuel and air mods to the current motor.
Opt 1...Buy a short block from ford, find a cheap core engine, so you dont have a 3000$ core charge (remember ford has a no fault core policy) it has to be complete, not rebuildable. Not saying you should screw them on a core but they will take it in any complete form, even with rods hanging out. Build it as you want when you want, if the original engine fails you may be forced to speed up the build on the new one but with a lot less down time. Basically the machine work will already be done, cylinders will be back to stock bore, so now you can use IH pistons. Swap cam, leave stock rods in it unless your planning over 1000hp.When you swap the built one out if the original is still good you can always sell it then.

Opt 2.... Buy a decent short block and build from there. Take it to a machine shop who know these engines, this was my major problem in my area. If it needs boring and it will piston choices start changing. This will take longer and more work, may come out cheaper it's a gamble. You may end up with a few unbuildable blocks before you get a good one. Most time people don't pull good running 6.4s for no reason

There is also option 3, dont know if there is a core or not, but you coukd buy a bare block, and not have a bunch of brand new parts that you pay for but not use.

swinky · Feb 14, 2016

6.4 and budget in the same thread title...... lolz

seriously though Randall studded his truck one at a time didn't even pull the heads. It runs retarded strong for a stock fuel truck. I mean hell the thing went 7.69 on stock fuel. I would consider stock fuel with a 369 and studs to keep you satisfied until you build a motor properly with pistons and all that jazz.

78f100 · Feb 14, 2016

6.0 Tech said:
There is also option 3, dont know if there is a core or not, but you coukd buy a bare block, and not have a bunch of brand new parts that you pay for but not use.

If you run stock rods, it's real close to the same price all said and done buying a bare block iirc it's 2800$. At least when I priced it it was, I ended up buying a new short block but I got a really good deal on it. I kept all the stock parts I pulled out, rods, cam, lifters, for another motor.