6.4L Blow-by video. Follow up thread to Ford saying I need an engine

[rrod]

Figured I would start a new thread to show the blow-by video since the other thread is 5 pages long and I can't embed the video in the first post. This is in relation to the thread where Ford says I need an engine.

***Not sure if good or bad but the smoke coming out of my tailpipe when I'm on the straight pipe is very similar to the smoke coming out of the filler cap in video.

http://youtu.be/IVPQOQvMCTQ


I've got to this point because I put straight pipe on truck with tune and noticed smoke coming from exhaust after about a week tuned. I did not beat the piss out of the truck on tune just tuned for better MPG. The smoke comes and goes but mainly does it when I'm at a stop light or parked.

*I just checked the oil again from last wednesday when I checked it sent some off to to blackstone (came back good no metal or fuel in oil). The oil level hasn't moved one bit. Put 300+ miles on the truck since then.

Truck is stock right now with 104,900 miles now and 4,xxx hours. I will get exact hours later.

 

[drunk on diesel]

looks perfectly normal to me, especially at night with light shone on it...

I ask again, was the tune you were running one that cycles the EGR?

 

[webb06]

I would say that's more than usual compared to what I've seen. They usually don't blow straight up with that much pressure.

I would have a manual compression test done and post the numbers. So we know exactly how trashed/or not trashed each cylinder is

 

[Dzchey21]

Seams a little high too me too but if it's not using oil or hard starting I wouldn't put a new engine in it

 

[sonic blue l]

Excessive, with that said is the engine at operating temp.

I understand what your trying to do is get an idea if you have excessive crankcase pressure, but your not actually doing the test properly. (So I will explain how ford would have or at least should have done the test) as just removing that cap and watching is more of a guess of what appears good or bad with no factual data.

Engine at operating temp, calibrated orfice in place of the oil cap, mangahelic gauge measuring the pressure in inches of water, clamp off the crankcase breather (your not eliminating that variable in your testing). Rev engine to 3000 rpm (no load) while monitoring reading on test gauge set. (Mangahelic gauge)

That will give you precise readings with an actual reference reading to determine crankcase pressure.

 

[sonic blue l]

Btw if your at 4000 hrs, the equivalent mileage is 132,000 miles. So that would have been a case where oil changes should have been performed based of engine hrs, not miles.

 

[sonic blue l]

As for wether you need an engine or not, btw I'm not saying one way or the other as I never looked at your truck. Now with that said, you'd be surprised how well a 6.4 will run/pull even with a dead hole. I've seen first hand where customers complaint is a slight shake at idle with no other drivability concerns on an engine with a cylinder with low to relatively no compression.

The newer engine controls can compensate so well that it can actually be a downfall as when previously a truck may have came in early enough to have the concern addressed before engine damage has taken place. Hence one of the reasons why you hear " my 6.4 ran great, the all of a sudden ". Now take away some of that engine management and the truck would have been running progressively ****y before it let to failure.

You need a manual compression test reading otherwise your beating a dead horse.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Looks identical to every washed down cylinder I've ever seen. I just did one yesterday. All slugs 430+ psi except #2@350.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Idles absolutely perfect for first few minutes than it misses like crazy and sfts top out quick

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

If you have a really bad cylinder you can jump the starter with they key off and you'll here the speed of the engine change as it's cranking. It will speed up on the low compression ones.

 

[rrod]

thanks for all the great advice.

I was running the 250 tune from Spartan. The truck had plenty of power on that tune..Way more power than my 6.0L even with the claimed worn engine this truck has.

I was thinking to put my straight pipe back on to stop the regens and get better fuel mileage however I don't want all the smoke coming out of my exhaust which my DPF catches now.

I reached out to the service manager to see if I can get it straight from him on what my truck showed for manual compression. The service advisor said they did relative and manual. The crankcase pressure was 20in at 3000psi compared to the normal 10in he said. I asked him for manual tests and he didn't call me back with it so on to the Service Manager. Also if they did manual and it was low I think that would be one of the first things they told me.

Also I have an extended warranty, which obviously doesn't covered "worn or burnt" items. So anyone with warranty experience, what is the way to get them to cover the engine???? Drive it until it breaks for good or something starts rattling around in there?? Looking for info from both sides of both mechanics and consumers..

 

[sonic blue l]

Ford esp or after market warranty?

 

[rrod]

Ford esp or after market warranty?

Aftermarket warranty from Endurance. They were actually really good about replacing my transmission twice in my last truck which was an SRT-10. That is the reason I went back to them.

 

[sonic blue l]

Well from what I've seen with after market warranties it's a crap shoot. Read your fine print as some do not allow a claim within x amount of days since purchas as well as x amount of milage from purchase. Also I've seen after market companies not want to pay full labour rate or labour time. Some also only will use used components. Example wrecker engines.

Now if your truck passes all the fine print, it should just take normal diagnostic procedures. With that said until the cause of the failure is identified, the bill is on your tab until it can be determined if the failed component is warrantable.

 

[sonic blue l]

Oh btw, I noticed what you said the service manager said about 10" of crankcase pressure. That is not normal, that is max spec. Normal would be about 3-5".

Now of course there can be some variance in equipment, hence allowed readings up to 10".
Just like somone posted compression readings over 400 psi, I don't remember ever seeing over 400 psi around here at around 2200 ft elevation. (Meaning elevation and equipment will affect what your truck may have vs what may have been mentioned on here). I will see around 380 psi on a good engine.

 

[rrod]

Well from what I've seen with after market warranties it's a crap shoot. Read your fine print as some do not allow a claim within x amount of days since purchas as well as x amount of milage from purchase. Also I've seen after market companies not want to pay full labour rate or labour time. Some also only will use used components. Example wrecker engines.

Now if your truck passes all the fine print, it should just take normal diagnostic procedures. With that said until the cause of the failure is identified, the bill is on your tab until it can be determined if the failed component is warrantable.

Yea I Had the waiting period 30 days 1000mi, it's been about 70 days and 4000mi. I know most make you pay labor until the cause is identified. I also know they cover up to $14k in expenses over the life of the warranty. I wonder if something broke that can be identified, that they will take that kind of hit.