62/75 compound set up

HobbyStock62

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started out wanting a powermax and 155s, now were here...
what i would be using this set up for is a daily driver, weekend tow pig (12,000lbs, max maybe 20,000lbs on the high side) and the occasional run down the quarter mile. i dont pull very long distances, maybe 60-80 miles any given week, possibility for a couple of 300 mile trips next summer.

this fall, when i dont need my truck to pull, i will be doing the supporting mods build. head studs, heads, complete fuel system, and egr delete. i will go easy on the trans and make that last a year or so, then build that.

the turbos that i would want to use (but open to hear other options) is a FMW 62 and a s475. i can get both turbos for a little over 2000 shipped.

that is about as far is i can get without asking a whole lot of stupid questions and getting responses for dummys. here go said questions...

1. What else will be needed to make a compound set up work? I know mounts, IC piping, a waste gate of some sorts, up pipes, but what else and what should i get for gate and up pipes? when i have the cab off of my truck in the fall i can figure out where to mount the turbos (where the stock one is and the other where the right battery would be) and make mounts, unless there are more to these mounts that i think? if it is just a mount to bolt the turbo to the engine, than i can make those no problem, but i have never dealt with this, so i dont know what else would be on a mount.

2. I will only do this if i can keep AC. is this doable, or should i stop now?

3. what boost will the stock intercooler hold?

4. Price, price, price. what should i expect for to spend of everything from question 1 and the rest of the parts that I do not know.

sorry if these sound stupid, but i just dont know the answers to these and cant find them on the internet.

any help is appreciated...

Thanks, John
 

JGman141

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3. I've ran 55-65psi for awhile now with no issues but plan on replacing it soon
 

TooMuch03

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I agree. the turbo drains are kind of a pain to get right. For a gate, I run a precision 46mm, and have no compaints. The Synapse gates have gotten great reviews, if I were to do it again, I would probably get one of those. You also want to spend some money on good quality bellows for the up-pipes. Vibrant is a good choice, but there are other options as well. Pretty much everyone you talk to will recommed that you use T304 stainless for the plumbing, especially the hot side stuff. You can use aluminum on the cold side, but I would stay away from any mild steel. You want to do it once and do it right.

For price, you can expect to spend about $350 on a wastegate. The piping with the flanges and drainlines will probably set you back $1500-2000, depending on how much you get and from where. And, make sure you or someone you know is a good welder. Hope this helps.
 

HobbyStock62

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thanks guys. can anyone give a brief description on the drain line for the low pressure? and for up pipes, are the the same basic design as stock? come from manifolds, and connect at the back of the high pressure turbo? my plan would be to have modern automotive performance make the ic piping, if i dont end up getting it from a diesel shop. they do a lot of cool things and are pretty close to where i live. are there any shops on here that have made/sell the plumbing for a compound set up, or do they all very in lengths/bends?
 

MorganY

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thanks guys. can anyone give a brief description on the drain line for the low pressure? and for up pipes, are the the same basic design as stock? come from manifolds, and connect at the back of the high pressure turbo? my plan would be to have modern automotive performance make the ic piping, if i dont end up getting it from a diesel shop. they do a lot of cool things and are pretty close to where i live. are there any shops on here that have made/sell the plumbing for a compound set up, or do they all very in lengths/bends?

Plumb into upper pan. No exceptions. You will kill the seals in your primary otherwise. IMO Make sure the size of the hole is .6" or larger. Better be safe than sorry.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
 

2wd-fire

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Plumb into upper pan. No exceptions. You will kill the seals in your primary otherwise. IMO Make sure the size of the hole is .6" or larger. Better be safe than sorry.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

did you pull your oil pan to do it?
 

Skinny

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Like Morgan said i drilled into the pan highest we could go just run it a little lower on oil.. When the motor goes boom it will be drilled the proper way.


Sent from my iPone sitting on the crapper
 

HobbyStock62

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I will have cab up in a month or so, probably gunna pull motor then, would be a good time to do this. So drill a hole in the upper most part of the right side of the pan? Then do ya weld a nut on the pan to thread a fitting into? I would have to drill this then plug it for a while so I could save for the rest of the parts. Then I suppose -10 line from the lp turbo to this?
 

MorganY

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I will have cab up in a month or so, probably gunna pull motor then, would be a good time to do this. So drill a hole in the upper most part of the right side of the pan? Then do ya weld a nut on the pan to thread a fitting into? I would have to drill this then plug it for a while so I could save for the rest of the parts. Then I suppose -10 line from the lp turbo to this?

-12 line

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
 

MorganY

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20130613_142544_zpsc65e633a.jpg



Here is an example of how NOT to position your drain, and sizing.

The hole is too close to the edge of the pan, causing a massive restriction, and the oil basically is flowing down the side of the pan. Have a full 15qts, and it will blow your seal big time......(It happened to me). Also, the hole was only .6xx", which isn't large enough.

I would put the drain farther back behind the starter in the larger "hips" of the upper pan; after doing it a few times now. Use some aluminum tubing, weld it into the pan, and have it bent to come in front of the electrical starter connections.
 

kevin

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How were you able to get the fitting to clear the bedplate? Looks good.

I tried many options like yours and was never able to pull it off because of clearance issues.

If you look close at the bed plate you will see where I had to grind a spot :)
 

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