7.3 aftermarket cam?

PowerstrokeJunkie · Sep 14, 2012

Still think you should buy my engine. I can keep my injectors out of it if you dont want them yet..

Cloverleaffarm · Sep 14, 2012

believe me Chris, I would like to be able to swing the deal. It is perfect for my future plans. But i can't afford to spend that much at 1 time, with looking to buy a house come May. That would be a good downpayment on something. I have mentioned your plan to a few guys i know that have spare 7.3s at their place

kampy · Sep 16, 2012

TARM said:
Think he is actually trying to talk about Compression ratio. As that gets lower in the cold it can have an adverse effect on starting.

I agree, he was talking about compression ratio and if it's significantly decreased it would have an effect on cold starting, but that's not the case with a larger bore. All things otherwise the same, increasing the bore size increases the C/R, therefore boring the engine will give a slightly increased C/R unless compensated for by the piston manufacturer.

In reality for this application it wouldn't make much difference one way or the other. that's why I said he was FOS.

TARM · Sep 16, 2012

Agreed.

Some other things you need to look at for this build:

Doing a partial fill of the block would be a VERY good idea before having the machining done.

ARP main stud kit would go with trying to keep everything inline etc

Welding the piston cooling jets to in as they can fall out over time.

After confirming end play on the Matts cam have the gear welded on to prevent walking.

Proper spec'd valve springs , push rods, head studs.

While 550 with some 200% can be made with 900-1000ftlb of tq doing these extra things to keep the block rigid IMO is well worth it to having a engine that will last and you do not have to wonder every time you punch the go pedal.

Cloverleaffarm · Sep 21, 2012

TARM said:
Agreed.

Some other things you need to look at for this build:

Doing a partial fill of the block would be a VERY good idea before having the machining done. what's the typical cost for the "filling" process to be done? i'm pretty new to that concept. I am within an hour of Danville Performance, Schieds and Fleece BUT those are too $$ for anything 7.3's

ARP main stud kit would go with trying to keep everything inline etc looking at buying a girdle/main stud kit through Mikes Diesel Performance in his current thread

Welding the piston cooling jets to in as they can fall out over time. something else I am very unfamilliar with, will have to ask around

After confirming end play on the Matts cam have the gear welded on to prevent walking. again, will have to look around

Proper spec'd valve springs , push rods, head studs. Jake @ Irate will be helping me out with that, or i'll be trying to group all the parts together when time/money is accessible. this build will be done in sections. so I can make sure everything is done properly.

While 550 with some 200% can be made with 900-1000ftlb of tq doing these extra things to keep the block rigid IMO is well worth it to having a engine that will last and you do not have to wonder every time you punch the go pedal.

replies are in blue, and i appreciate all the help. Definately going to be a long process over a year or 2.

TARM · Sep 21, 2012

Not sure on the cost you will have to call some of the sponsors. It should be done before nay machine work is done for sure. Give it plenty of time to cure. Maybe give Nate @ Unlimited or Dave @ swamps a call and talk about it. The 7.3 has oil squirter that shoot oil onto the underside of the piston. Sometimes the loctite lets loose and you end up finding a cooling jet in your oil pan when you do a OC. The issue is one the piston is not getting the oil as it should to cool it and the oil is now flowing out of a larger hole than its suppose to so you can end up with low oil pressure. By putting a weld on it they will stay put for sure.

Same thing goes for the cam gear. keeping it from walking and then you start eating up CPS and have issues.

I think you will be SUPER happy with the setup as far as the power goals go you are looking at. We tend to always push our parts to the max. Turbo pushed to way high drvie pressure and heavy fuel to squeeze all the power we can. Its nice when you build something and choose the parts to stay in the sweet perf zone for those specs not the ragged edge. Things last longer run better IMO.

Cloverleaffarm · Sep 21, 2012

thanks Tarm for the info. I am probably doing some overkill for what i'm doing with the hp goals. But i wanna build a solid foundation so that when i press on the skinny pedal hooked to a sled, i don't have to worry as much as what's gonig to blow out of the block this time.

I will call and talk with Nate about his cam requirements and other stuff like that from him. and i'll call Dave and see what all he charges for filling and other stuff that the block needs prior to machine work

thuglike · Sep 21, 2012

A cam will push your curve up 4-500 rpm's but it will cut your trq number if such things concern you.

I like the rpm-reduced trq trade off myself...I'm sure Mike (blowby) does as well.

Vader's Fury · Sep 21, 2012

Wouldn't that help in keeping the bottom end together? I thought one of the issues with people blowing forged rod motors is to much torque down low.

Also, you have a DI cam in your truck correct thug?

thuglike · Sep 21, 2012

Vader's Fury said:
Wouldn't that help in keeping the bottom end together? YES I thought one of the issues with people blowing forged rod motors is to much torque down low.

Also, you have a DI cam in your truck correct thug?

YES

Blowby · Sep 23, 2012

Jason is correct with the modified cam I can tune the TQ down ...red was best HP tune and blue is new tune, first run with changes.

Red is the same tune above in blue. And this blue is best HP tune with reduced TQ.

JOESPSD · Oct 7, 2012

If you guys werent doing a full teardown or rebuild of the engine would you still consider adding the cam from Matt or DI? I guess what I'm asking is it worth the labor or time to add the cam on say a 250K engine?

99-Resurrection · Oct 11, 2012

Definately do a cam ... Wasnt plannin on it for mine but did a Stage 1.. Bottom End is where I started and workin way up ... I have High numbers in mind but realistically probably settle for 600hp

Whos doin mach work? I had a local do mine did great job.. Welcome to PM me n ill let you in on somthings that had done ... As far as Swamps.... Could NEVER go wrong dealing with those guys... Great group!

Bigsexy · Oct 11, 2012

Sounds like your doing the same thing I am over the winter, except I'm thinking of trying colt cams stage 2. I also like the fact your egts will drop with a good cam.

Powerstroke Racer · Oct 11, 2012

Bigsexy said:
Sounds like your doing the same thing I am over the winter, except I'm thinking of trying colt cams stage 2. I also like the fact your egts will drop with a good cam.

If you are considering installing a cam because EGT's may drop you are thinking of this all wrong.

Bigsexy · Oct 12, 2012

I'm actaully doing it for other reason, but yes it will help the 7.3 breath easier.

Bigsexy · Oct 12, 2012

If you lose by putting a cam in blowby why would you run one?

TARM · Oct 12, 2012

He was able to run less TQ which means less Cylinder pressure yet still produce the same or more HP.

Viking · Oct 18, 2012

what about putting a stroker crank in with a aftermarket cam? .25 extra stroke, still haven't pulled the trigger, but the thought is with me everyday!