7.3 Rebuild (and build-up)

vr6nutt

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
Meant to start posting this earlier - but got too involved with work and waiting in parts, etc. So this is a bit of a read.. ;)

Original setup was standard bolt on stuff, with a popular 2009-era tunes and a 38R. During time of ownership I managed to toast the original 4R100 and swapped it for a John Wood tow master unit :rockon:

Moved decent for what it was. I tow about 13k several times a year, always watched EGTs. And it was the wife's DD.


So the infamous indestructible 7.3 motor failed. 7 cracked pistons and 1 with a hole. Wife was driving at the time in a bit of a hurry on the famous 80E tune :poke: IDK if it was a combination of old oil, cold temps, and lead foot (on tunes - causes way too much advance from what I've read) or if it was a gradual build up and just decided to let go. Either way - big disappointment.

Now I am faced with downtime and lots to think about.

Ended up sourcing a freshly machined block, heads, forged rods, ARP main and head stud kid. Was done by a reputable shop in the IE, Socal.

Went over everything with a micrometer and a T, checking the bore diameters. PO says all I need is a rebuild kit OE bore and I am good to go. Even had a mechanic friend w/20+ years experience assist. Checked out ok.

So I gather my wish list of parts. Found its cheaper to order from Riff Raff and pay shipping than it would be to pay sales tax in CA. :evil

Place an order for all kinds of goodies and waited. Decided somewhere along the way that I wanna be sure that everything was good so I had a reputable SoCal engine machine shop (L&R) have a look to align-hone the block, balance rotating assembly, and check bores again. Got block back and began assy when the main bearing clearances on 5 and 3 were a little big for my liking.Back to the machine shop with block and heads and asked them to assemble as I was getting impatient and wanted it done right. Got my mains a bit tighter in the "meat" of the spec, align honed again, and assembled. Prior to assembling the heads, I asked to have them mag'd. Turns out the heads have cracks in the exhaust seat area. I bring down my originals - same problem. Get 5 more sets from local wrecking yards. All of em have f*&^%$# cracked seats! I didn't want to do pressed in seats. Then I was referred via link on another forum to this site selling an immaculate set. Purchased the heads and had em shipped over to machine shop. Voila! Engine assembled (mainly). Now I am assembling all the bits and covers and checking torque, etc.

Believe it or not, that was the condensed version! :)

This is where I am now. Damn this thing is a pig to spin around on the stand:

7.3Upsidedown_zpsb4bjgbxp.jpg
 

buckeye0913

New member
Joined
Apr 25, 2015
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Hopefully I'll be going in depth after deployment with my 7.3 like you are. Looks really nice! Where at in SoCal are you? I've been wanting to hit up some salvage yards in the area. Any suggestions on places that have a lot of 7.3's?
 

vr6nutt

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
Hopefully I'll be going in depth after deployment with my 7.3 like you are. Looks really nice! Where at in SoCal are you? I've been wanting to hit up some salvage yards in the area. Any suggestions on places that have a lot of 7.3's?

I'm in Rancho Cucamonga, or Cucamonga, as Bugs Bunny says :)

I used L&R Engines in Santa Fe Springs - he sourced heads from LA salvage yards - but couldn't find any good heads. Got the pair of heads from Derek @ Vision Diesel here on PSA.

What brand front cover?

Stock. Just clean, painted, and baked in oven (Wife was not happy).

In another thread, I ended up in a bit of a snag:

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63982

I am going to run the heads - was able to close up the extra holes. Removed the galley plugs, spun the motor till the oil plug holes faced down - used a combination of paint stripper and tap to clear out the threads. Cleaned up well. The fuel ports were more interesting to clean out. Removed port plugs on both ends and adapted my shop vac to fit, and a long air nozzle..re-o-ringed when done.

Debating on proper hose routing, as one places it too close to the turbo:

route2_zps7ki7ckhq.jpg



vs
route1_zpsje804vq0.jpg


Front view:

route1front_zpseqioykb9.jpg


Anyone know the thread type off hand to this exhaust back pressure sensor?

sensor%20cover_zpskg4mbsgv.jpg


And yes I realize the bolts on the HPOP resi are in the wrong spot. Will move.

Just buttoning things up - hope to install this weekend. :rockon:
 

sootie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
11,843
Reaction score
35
i believe the ebp sensors are -4 AN fittings or JIC in my terms.
 

BS Hauler

New member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
175
Reaction score
0
Location
Northeast Iowa
I bought the same intake plenums from RR. What is the white sealant that you used on them. I thought they just used the O-rings that they came with. I have not put mine on yet. Just asking in advance so I don't miss doing it if it needs it.
 

vr6nutt

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
I bought the same intake plenums from RR. What is the white sealant that you used on them. I thought they just used the O-rings that they came with. I have not put mine on yet. Just asking in advance so I don't miss doing it if it needs it.

I used the Ford sealant as the o-rings didn't work in my application - I have older model heads on a newer bottom end. If you have a 10-bolt heads, you'll be fine with the o-ring.
 

vr6nutt

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
Motor went in over the weekend.

Did some cleaning and minor painting of the frame area

EngineBay_zpskerhq3j2.jpg


Up-Pipes installed

EngineRear_zpsjog37gcj.jpg


Read this idea on this forum I believe. Wish I would of done this before pulling the motor in the first place. Wonder if I could of left the turbo installed while installing - wasn't sure. But leaving the up-pipes on was a gift in itself.

FrameBlock_zps2984m7xe.jpg


Installed.
EngineInstalled_zpskycft4ok.jpg


All accessories installed as well. Spent time cleaning the IC and radiator - were filthy. Ran out of daylight to get them installed though.

One question - where does that ground strap thats attached to the rear of the head fasten to? I forget.
 

psmike

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
155
Reaction score
1
Location
Calif
hey there.. are you a member of SoCaps. I see your pretty close to me. Pomona here.. any good junk yards around here for powerstrokes...
 

vr6nutt

New member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
Yes. To the firewall. Right above the ac bullshti.

Got it -thanks!

Warcat - I got a bit more than I planned into it. But I looked at it this way: I dont have $60k+ for a 6.7 and still need the room for the family. Wanted to build a solid runner and an improved tow vehicle.

Mike - yeah I am on SoCaps. IDK where any local yards are - but there are some in South LA Area.

So now that its running, I'm doing the break-in - getting the rings seated - etc. Did about 60 miles of uphill/downhill runs - making it work uphill, and engine braking downhill. Now I got about 200 miles on it so far. Its running the stock single shot tune from PHP. I noticed that with this setup, my EGTs seem a bit higher than before...but I also screwed in the wastegate rod on the 38R 6 turns in - read that the WG isnt really needed on a stock tune with a 38R. I didn't notice any leaks - so unsure why the higher-than-preferable EGT. Any ideas?

Build list - I dont think I detailed it earlier:

Rotating assy balanced/align honed
Ford DIT engine kit
New lifters
Forged Rods
ARP Mains/Head studs
Comp 910s
Smith Bros Push Rods
Welded Piston Jets
Rebuilt Heads
New AC Code Injectors
Billet Plenums
RR CAC Boots
RR FRX (Gold Spring)
RR HPX
Terminator T500 HPOP
Fluidampr Balancer

Already had:
38R
AFE Intake/Exhaust (Using MBRP Muffler - liked it better at the time)
JW Towmaster 4R100

Probably some little stuff I am forgetting. Waiting for a while before adding tunes - want it to break in stock.
 
Last edited:

lincolnlocker

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
27,881
Reaction score
150
Location
Central Michigan
you spray the cac system down with soapy water and put air to the compressor side of the turbo to pressurize the system just to be 100% sure there are no leaks? you sure the turbo, uppies, and manifolds are ligned up and 100% sure there are no leaks there? need to hook that bish to a 8k lb trailer and stand on it! do a smokey burnout too..

live life full throttle
 

TyCorr

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
15,461
Reaction score
0
Because you were giving advice on how to "break in" a motor. But you were just breakin' a motor.
 

lincolnlocker

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
27,881
Reaction score
150
Location
Central Michigan
Because you were giving advice on how to "break in" a motor. But you were just breakin' a motor.
not 100% my fault.. it ran great and would have never known i got ***ed if the cam gear would have been welded and not wobbling around like a toddler learning to walk...

live life full throttle
 

Latest posts

Members online

No members online now.
Top