AC help please

KBMKVIII

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
1,481
Reaction score
28
Location
Texas
Got it checked out and the shop says everything is good but the radiator fan is not coming on As it should. I can hear the fan most of the time until I get up to speed on the freeway when ac is on. They said it takes 350 psi of system pressure for the computer to call for the fan to be switched on. But for some reason they are thinking it's the electonic fan clutch.
The rest of the system is working properly. And these damn clutches are 450 ish new.
Does this sound like my issue? Just does not make sense if I can hear the fan.
 

POWER-STRUCK

New member
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
2,046
Reaction score
0
Location
Indiana
it is possible for the fan clutch to be bad but it would cool just fine going down the road if that was the case
 

KBMKVIII

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
1,481
Reaction score
28
Location
Texas
It does get cool but nothing like I feel it should be.
Also it takes forever to get there.
 

Lethalthreat7.3

New member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
313
Reaction score
0
Location
Denver, CO
Has anything been done to your system? Did it just slowly start getting worse or just doesn't seem to work like it did last year?
The air gap could be a problem but usually you can hear what sounds like a "squeak" or metal slipping against metal(sorry cant explain it). The air gap on the compressor is the space between the clutch face and the pulley face. This gap must be large enough so that their is no contact between the two. When the coil is energized it pulls the clutch in against the pulley engaging the compressor to pump/compress refrigerant. After high mileage and many, many cycles the air gap does increase from wear. This is rarely the issue however it can happen. Normally you can watch the compressor once it is engaged to see if the clutch appears to be slipping. If this is an issue it will occur when the head pressure is highest, that is at idle with the a.c on max and fan on high speed.

Make sure the blend door is completely actuating, isolating the heater and evaporator core from each other when in AC mode. It is located behind the glove box.

The orifice may be clogged from the desiccant. It is located between the discharge tube and the evaporator core. If you have gauges you will see a low reading on the suction and a high reading on the discharge side. With an orifice system, a restriction will directly affect the pressures being seen where a txv is more difficult to diagnose as the metering will change depending on the temperature sensed by the sensing bulb.
Is the accumulator discharge tube frosting(this is where the orifice tube is located) prior to going into the cab/evaporator? This can help try to diagnose if it is causing the problem. It is difficult as this is a "factory" restriction/metering device.
The suction line to the AC compressor can frost due to humidity and the low temperature of the refrigerant so I am not talking about that,(trying to help locate a possible restriction for those thinking this).
Are there excessive bugs or debris in the condenser? Bent fins?
There has to be enough air moved through the condenser to properly allow refrigerant to properly change state(vapor to liquid). Any blockage or reduced airflow can cause your AC system to work improperly.
If you have a large fan that can move ALOT of air, try putting it directly in front of the condenser(simulate at least 35mph). Using a thermometer see if there is a difference in discharge temp with and without the additional airflow.
 

YoungMT Hick

New member
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
118
Reaction score
0
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
Was there any update to this. I am pretty sure I have a bad drier as my orifice tube was clogged with resin beads. How much does a evac/flush/recharge cost? Mine in a 2006 and definitely has signs the drier went bad.
 

96F350KID

New member
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
502
Reaction score
0
Location
Nokomis FL
The orifiace tube catches everything at that point. Should be no more then $200-250 to replace the dryer and have it charged
 

Latest posts

Members online

No members online now.
Top