Accidental use of synthetic oil

CATDiezel

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If you have a CCV mod, you'll lose a quart every 5k miles due to blow-by.

Ccv mods are no bueano.

Physics agree. (Maybe not so much forum members or vendors) LOL.

Your more than likely burning the quart from oil vapor sticking to the sidewalls of the cylinder rather than being properly scavenged. Proven on large bore engines. Ones with scavenge systems vs ones without.
 

CATDiezel

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I may have missed it. But if your truck is still stock then run whatever good oil you want and change every 8k miles. A d e l e t ed truck is a whole nother story. If you seen the e g r pipes on a new truck at 10,000 miles it would more than likely make you sick!
 

Notneb

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Ccv mods are no bueano.

Physics agree. (Maybe not so much forum members or vendors) LOL.

Your more than likely burning the quart from oil vapor sticking to the sidewalls of the cylinder rather than being properly scavenged. Proven on large bore engines. Ones with scavenge systems vs ones without.

Mine's routed to my down pipe in a Venturi for a slight vacuum, so I've got enough to put a vacuum on my crank case.
 

NCSU dirt man

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truck is not stock, it's got a 4" MBRP straight pipe and will have the 3GR done here soon. for now all the systems have been disabled. so whatever rotella's synthetic offerings are should be fine for a d e l e t e d truck correct?
 

JetExpress_6.7

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Ccv mods are no bueano.

Physics agree. (Maybe not so much forum members or vendors) LOL.

Your more than likely burning the quart from oil vapor sticking to the sidewalls of the cylinder rather than being properly scavenged. Proven on large bore engines. Ones with scavenge systems vs ones without.

What?? excuse my ignorance but what physics agree?
 

mikeeg02

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I go 7500 on Mobil 1 5W40 year round. I really don't know a lot about the 6.7's but If I had one I would go the 7500 between changes.. The older trucks, (6.0's) I have owned destroyed the oil within 5K no matter what oil I used..

On the other hand, if I was planning on keeping a truck for 140-150K I probably wouldn't bother spending the extra money on the synthetic's..

My old 7.3 truck I ran to 3XX,XXX. Changed the oil every 10k, and ran rotella 5w-40. Sent plenty of UOA's in to Blackstone. They thought my samples were good and kept recommending 10k. Though I was averaging 45k a year then. Can a 6.0 go 10k without losing fuel or something into its oil? :hammer::hammer: LOL
 

Atsah

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Can a 6.0 go 10k without losing fuel or something into its oil? :hammer::hammer: LOL

Neither of my 6.0's could go 10K without losing something worth a lot of money I can tell you that...:doh:
 

mcdaniel1991

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Hmm I did 10k oil changes on my 6.0, as recommended by black stone labs according to my oil analysis.

Was running mobil 1 TDT 5w40 and rev x.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

NCSU dirt man

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Hey can somebody just say if Rotella's synthetic oil or synthetic blend is fine in a d e l e t e d truck? While the debate about 6.0's oil life and the physics of oil and a CCV/3GR mode is just absolutely spell-binding, I would prefer to get to the bottom of all of this and try to change my oil one night this week lol. I've got the filter just wanting to know if Rotella's synthetics are ok or not? Not trying to be a smartass just wanna do it before I go on vacation
 

Atsah

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Hey can somebody just say if Rotella's synthetic oil or synthetic blend is fine in a d e l e t e d truck? While the debate about 6.0's oil life and the physics of oil and a CCV/3GR mode is just absolutely spell-binding, I would prefer to get to the bottom of all of this and try to change my oil one night this week lol. I've got the filter just wanting to know if Rotella's synthetics are ok or not? Not trying to be a smartass just wanna do it before I go on vacation


LOL

Well you have been using conventional oil for 95 thousand miles so I would think T6 or any other full synthetic diesel oil would be a better choice than what you have been using..
 

NCSU dirt man

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LOL

Well you have been using conventional oil for 95 thousand miles so I would think T6 or any other full synthetic diesel oil would be a good choice..

Awesome thanks man! Again not trying to rub anybody wrong I just wanna get this done before my trip lol. It seemed like the thread was going awry there for a minute
 

LMPirate

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I ran the mobile 1 diesel oil in mine and got a small oil leak. I went to a semi synthetic and it slowly quit. Not bashing mobile at all I run it in all my other trucks. Just for some reason the 6.7 got a small leak
 

NCSU dirt man

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I ran the mobile 1 diesel oil in mine and got a small oil leak. I went to a semi synthetic and it slowly quit. Not bashing mobile at all I run it in all my other trucks. Just for some reason the 6.7 got a small leak

Thanks for the heads up on that. I have always put mobil 1 in my gas trucks. Glad to know that it didn't do so hot in the powerstroke before I might've tried it!
 

Notneb

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I bet your still pressurized. Especially if your in the downpipe.

Doubt it, pressurized crank case on a new vehicle? Lol, we're not talking a worn out set of rings and turbo dumping massive pressures into the engine. Also, comparing the "lets run the CCV to the intake" system on a POV to an actual scavenging air system on a big diesel, seems a little bit of a stretch.

I'm not saying my system is perfect but it's not any worse than the stock system in terms of vacuum. There is the same amount of vacuum across the full RPM range from the exhaust port I made, as the intake port on the stock intake system.

Also there's a HUGE difference between atomized oil and burnt oil, in terms of smell. I'm not smelling burned oil, just hot oil. I grew up around 70's80's era Cat iron, so I'm not some city kid who doesn't listen to the truck, know what smells mean. No offense to city kids, I know we have to be all PC anymore... lol

Next oil change I'll send a sample off to see what my contamination is like, because right now it's just us talking, we can't know for sure without a sample test!

Also sorry for contributing to the de-rail OP!
 
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CATDiezel

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Doubt it, pressurized crank case on a new vehicle? Lol, we're not talking a worn out set of rings and turbo dumping massive pressures into the engine. Also, comparing the "lets run the CCV to the intake" system on a POV to an actual scavenging air system on a big diesel, seems a little bit of a stretch.

I'm not saying my system is perfect but it's not any worse than the stock system in terms of vacuum. There is the same amount of vacuum across the full RPM range from the exhaust port I made, as the intake port on the stock intake system.

Also there's a HUGE difference between atomized oil and burnt oil, in terms of smell. I'm not smelling burned oil, just hot oil. I grew up around 70's80's era Cat iron, so I'm not some city kid who doesn't listen to the truck, know what smells mean. No offense to city kids, I know we have to be all PC anymore... lol

Next oil change I'll send a sample off to see what my contamination is like, because right now it's just us talking, we can't know for sure without a sample test!

Also sorry for contributing to the de-rail OP!

Don't take this as a bash on notNeb... just brainstorming... and for what its worth regarding the oil.. just put some oil in it!! lol (for the op)

How did you verify vacuum on a positive pressure downpipe?

There are many elements missing in the downpipe to create a TRUE Venturi effect. Look up bernoullis prinicple.

Im only assuming you did not modify the downpipe to create the produce whats referred to as bernoullis principle!

Anyways if you were able to create a vacuum with a simple pipe cut at an angle and stuck into the pipe then you defeated physics!! There is always a chance that Im wrong also! LOL.

Only reason I say this is because I tried this unknowingly somewhere around the year 2002 on a 7.3L and it was not successful. The only way to make it work was to run it to the end of the exhaust pipe where you get somewhat of a pressure change when exiting to atmosphere.

Always open to something new as I am NOT a physicist!


To create a true Venturi you have to have a build up of pressure then a release over an "orifice" or "necked down" area. I did a bunch of studying on this like 8 years ago!... So its rusty remembrance at best!
 
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Notneb

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Don't take this as a bash on notNeb... just brainstorming... and for what its worth regarding the oil.. just put some oil in it!! lol (for the op)

How did you verify vacuum on a positive pressure downpipe?

There are many elements missing in the downpipe to create a TRUE Venturi effect. Look up bernoullis prinicple.

Im only assuming you did not modify the downpipe to create the produce whats referred to as bernoullis principle!

Anyways if you were able to create a vacuum with a simple pipe cut at an angle and stuck into the pipe then you defeated physics!! There is always a chance that Im wrong also! LOL.

Only reason I say this is because I tried this unknowingly somewhere around the year 2002 on a 7.3L and it was not successful. The only way to make it work was to run it to the end of the exhaust pipe where you get somewhat of a pressure change when exiting to atmosphere.

Always open to something new as I am NOT a physicist!


To create a true Venturi you have to have a build up of pressure then a release over an "orifice" or "necked down" area. I did a bunch of studying on this like 8 years ago!... So its rusty remembrance at best!

No prob I got thick skin ;) I'll pm you my setup, since we've de-railed this thread enough.
 

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